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FACs or Bitubo's, FACs have a lower compresion damping than the Bitubo's. FACs are imho nicer when riding a bit sportive and in tight turns. Bitubo's are more comfortable for relaxed-touring.

Often a much underestimated motorcycle, I really love the SP1000 and had quite a few friends riding it on day trips that would take us 3 days on a V11 Sport. It was one of the favorit bikes for the "Amstelario" 1300km consistency tour from Amsterdam to Mandello (from 70ties to 2002). Over here in the Netherlands we have an affordable electronic ignition that is mounted on the existing tower, it includes the advance and has no wasted spark. The link is: https://swf-ignitionsystems.nl/ . I would really advise this system. It works robustly on my California 2 for more than 110.000km. I use Electronic Sachse as well on a LM3, but the wasted spark (it is on the cranckshaft) results in occasional back-fires (and losing the carburator :-) ) . It is working all right, but in heavy rain the back-fires increase. Maybe a rubber flap at the end of the front-fender would reduce the spray on the generator cover. ES is a bit less suitable for all weather conditions. There are however different advance curves that you can choose and it has an elctronic output for a rev-counter, all of this is not needed for the SP1000. My earlier experience with the 850 LeMans II standard ignition was not bad, but later in the '00 the quality of the contactbreakers became poorer because the runners are not nicely parallel to the nock. The wear in the beginning (500-1000km) was very large. This LM2 is from the same production era as the SP1000. I would say the later square fins are made of better aluminium. I have put helicoils in practically every M6 hole of the head and sump (and yes I used a special calibrated 10Nm torque wrench ) The PHF36 carburators do not fit automatically to the SP1000. It is made for the VHB30 carbs. Are you sure it is not a PHF30 that is mounted? Otherwise, I would assume the previous owner replaced the cilinder heads as well. I thought the original SP had steel cilinder liners (or cast iron). When only 33.000 miles on the clock they could still be in. The sump extension and every other thing to improve the breathing of the engine block for volume pumping is good to do (the LM2 and 3 have a Agostini breather box that has twice the volume of the original). But still I have occasional blow-outs when riding 5500rpm at the highway for a long time. The best solution that works for me is a vent tube from the breather-house that is only going up, to prevent a siphon effect (is that correct english). I let the tube end at a 1/2 liter oil can. I did change the camchain and spanner of the Cali 2 at 180.000km, but actually only the plastic of the spanner was hardened. After cleaning it became flexible again (?). Of course I trhrew it away for I don't like these unpredictable behaviours, but the question is what the cause of this hardening would have been. No further problems, except that I heard a rattling from the cam chain that triggerd my mechanical nerve. I think you will have a lot of fun with the SP1000, an unbreakable machine

It does look better!

FWIW , this automotive forum I am on , these members really harp about using the specific viscosity with engines because of VVL , VVT and DOD in engines . This is discussed the Nth degree. The only reason I do it (recommended viscosity) is to cover my A$$.

Glucosamine? I cannot close my pointer and middle fingers on both hands. Like laying them on the levers is as closed as I can get them. This started about five years ago and I thought I was having a reaction to the brand of oils I was working with every day. I now "know" it is arthritis and I don't like it .

A Porsche in a Ghia's clothing . . .

At "idle", about 1100 rpm (no battery light) : About 2000-2500 rpm (no battery light) :

Static battery voltage = 12.80 KOEO: left DMM: red/black-->black "Reference Voltage" / right DMM: "blue" --> white "warning light" wire [ dash battery warning light illuminated }

Perhaps more than two faults. I am trying to fashion a way to see voltages at the regulator reference connector at various states (KOEO, idle, +rpm) . . . I am staged to partially insert the connector, attach two separate DMM to the exposed, but inserted, legs and see what those reference and warning light voltages do . . . The set up:

Yes, I think so too. I think it might possibly be related to the charge light not coming on KOEO, but I don't think that is the cause of the charging issue(s) either. I still suspect that there are more than one fault, and that this is confusing the issue(s) somewhat.

I felt poor pulling the Krauser Kluge up next to those Sophia Lorens!

Thanks for that, @Joe. There was a Karmann Ghia somewhere in there, which reminded me of this. I haven't ever seen it, just read about it on the Interweb. Sounds like fun, though. https://www.bader-racing.de/en/home/home_news.htm A quote from the site:

Blue wire to ground, I get 34.6Ω. edit: with the oil switch unplugged, I get open circuit "1" from blue wire to ground. Another indication your oil switch is faulty, but not a clue on the charging issue(s). Oil switch post to ground, I get 1.6Ω. This makes me think your oil pressure switch is faulty and the lack of oil light, KOEO, is not related to the charging issue(s).

That looks like an open circuit = no connection. But if that is between the wire itself and ground, that is to be expected. What I'm interested in is not the incoming wire to ground, but the connection that it plugs on to to ground. And under various conditions: key on, engine off. Engine running. Engine running at the revs where the light has been going on. Ideally: connect the DMM, see what it is showing, turn on the key, see what the DMM is showing, start the motor, see what the DMM is showing, slowly increase the revs and observe what the DMM shows during this. What I'm interested in is if the regulator is switching that contact to ground as it should, or at least under which conditions it is doing so.

Nice Texas Spine Raid rendezvous and enjoyable lunch at one of our favorite local cafes and not coincidentally also a stop on the Tour of Texas. Great to have you here Eric and Pascal thanks for coming up as well!

Something like this?

Perhaps 70 Ohms is a bad switch. Near zero would be preferable. A simple Test Light, like @gstallons often recommends, would be a way to test the switch: connect test light to positive--> touch probe to bare switch post. Light? Switch good. No light? Bad switch. If we can get the oil light out of the equation by determining it has nothing to do with the charge light, perhaps the search narrows.

I believe so. I clipped the ohm meter to the post at the red arrow in pic below.

@PJPR01, @p6x, @Pressureangle

This is what my DMM shows at all ohm settings between the blue wire and GND.

Dang. So, the oil light is getting power, since it will light when the wire is grounded and the switch looks closed (no resistance from the switch post to ground), but no light . . . Did you completely remove the wire connector to the switch and test the resistance to ground with the switch post bare?

No it does not light up KOEO.

I found my switch post corroded, as well (in spite of my added rubber boot). Did your cleaning that connection allow the oil light to illuminate. now, KOEO?