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It does look better!

FWIW , this automotive forum I am on , these members really harp about using the specific viscosity with engines because of VVL , VVT and DOD in engines . This is discussed the Nth degree. The only reason I do it (recommended viscosity) is to cover my A$$.

Glucosamine? I cannot close my pointer and middle fingers on both hands. Like laying them on the levers is as closed as I can get them. This started about five years ago and I thought I was having a reaction to the brand of oils I was working with every day. I now "know" it is arthritis and I don't like it .

A Porsche in a Ghia's clothing . . .

At "idle", about 1100 rpm (no battery light) : About 2000-2500 rpm (no battery light) :

Static battery voltage = 12.80 KOEO: left DMM: red/black-->black "Reference Voltage" / right DMM: "blue" --> white "warning light" wire [ dash battery warning light illuminated }

Perhaps more than two faults. I am trying to fashion a way to see voltages at the regulator reference connector at various states (KOEO, idle, +rpm) . . . I am staged to partially insert the connector, attach two separate DMM to the exposed, but inserted, legs and see what those reference and warning light voltages do . . . The set up:

Yes, I think so too. I think it might possibly be related to the charge light not coming on KOEO, but I don't think that is the cause of the charging issue(s) either. I still suspect that there are more than one fault, and that this is confusing the issue(s) somewhat.

I felt poor pulling the Krauser Kluge up next to those Sophia Lorens!

Thanks for that, @Joe. There was a Karmann Ghia somewhere in there, which reminded me of this. I haven't ever seen it, just read about it on the Interweb. Sounds like fun, though. https://www.bader-racing.de/en/home/home_news.htm A quote from the site:

Blue wire to ground, I get 34.6Ω. edit: with the oil switch unplugged, I get open circuit "1" from blue wire to ground. Another indication your oil switch is faulty, but not a clue on the charging issue(s). Oil switch post to ground, I get 1.6Ω. This makes me think your oil pressure switch is faulty and the lack of oil light, KOEO, is not related to the charging issue(s).

That looks like an open circuit = no connection. But if that is between the wire itself and ground, that is to be expected. What I'm interested in is not the incoming wire to ground, but the connection that it plugs on to to ground. And under various conditions: key on, engine off. Engine running. Engine running at the revs where the light has been going on. Ideally: connect the DMM, see what it is showing, turn on the key, see what the DMM is showing, start the motor, see what the DMM is showing, slowly increase the revs and observe what the DMM shows during this. What I'm interested in is if the regulator is switching that contact to ground as it should, or at least under which conditions it is doing so.

Nice Texas Spine Raid rendezvous and enjoyable lunch at one of our favorite local cafes and not coincidentally also a stop on the Tour of Texas. Great to have you here Eric and Pascal thanks for coming up as well!

Something like this?

Perhaps 70 Ohms is a bad switch. Near zero would be preferable. A simple Test Light, like @gstallons often recommends, would be a way to test the switch: connect test light to positive--> touch probe to bare switch post. Light? Switch good. No light? Bad switch. If we can get the oil light out of the equation by determining it has nothing to do with the charge light, perhaps the search narrows.

I believe so. I clipped the ohm meter to the post at the red arrow in pic below.

@PJPR01, @p6x, @Pressureangle

This is what my DMM shows at all ohm settings between the blue wire and GND.

Dang. So, the oil light is getting power, since it will light when the wire is grounded and the switch looks closed (no resistance from the switch post to ground), but no light . . . Did you completely remove the wire connector to the switch and test the resistance to ground with the switch post bare?

No it does not light up KOEO.

I found my switch post corroded, as well (in spite of my added rubber boot). Did your cleaning that connection allow the oil light to illuminate. now, KOEO?

I also like the original anodized red on the Tenni, same as on the Scura and I think all the variations from 2002 onwards that had "red stillettos." I'm not sure if anyone has figured how to duplicate that finish.

More pics of it in its natural habitat!