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High mile Guzzis are suspicious animals. Probably has things like non-factory relays and wires running in funny directions to surprising places.

The 1000S there had over 200,000 miles.

Also checked the 30A fuse... It was perfect with no degrading whatsoever. I will share results when new battery, and relays are installed

Well it’s actually an EV11 with different skin so not a Lemans anyway. I kinda like the bare nose look. It sure sounded nice with the Staintune exhaust. And the HB hard bags were worth $.

Meh. There's a better one out there. Half of it, the better half, was missing, anyway. One of those needs to have the fairing still on it, and the clip-ons. Otherwise, it's not a Le Mans anymore.

Totally different head and cams than a Griso engine BUT the whole valve system on a Dayton/Centauro engine is still a high wear and marginal system prone to flaking lifters and wearing valve guides at a high rate. A 2 valve reliable engine they are not. Phil

Have you replaced the plugs, leads and plug caps yet? Phil

DOH!!! THNX DOCC LOL

I don’t think Mark posts here. What’s it doing?

The first generation Hi-Cams do not suffer from the same flat tappet issues that affect the later 1200 Hi Cams. They can have tappet issues, but they are not the same. To me this sounds suspiciously like a sudden electrical drop-out. Perhaps caused by vibration or something else. Try running a couple of auxiliary earth cables to the battery negative, including a direct one from the ecu, and bypassing all the strange f*ckery of the standard earth path that probably goes through the pork chops and all sorts of weirdness! Oh, and Pressureangle? If you do buy the Griso make sure it’s been rollerised or is a post-flat tappet model as I’m hearing reports that the factory has ceased production of conversion kits. If this is the case and the bike you are looking at still has flat tappets it will essentially be a paperweight.

Thanks. Later V11 are wired slightly differently than the early Sports. Look carefully at your warning light display. There are separate right and left turn signal indicators? Then there will be no "battery"/charging light. It was omitted on the later V11. Good call on the (major) relay upgrade.

Truly, I quite like the larger font. I would make mine large like yours, if I didn't already know what it says.

Having a few issues with my 2017 Stelvio NTX as of late that may require Mark ( aka Beetle ) Where are you Mark. Regards.

We (company) just went to our bank for a short-term building loan. By the time it was over, I had to decline; I had to put up my *personal* assets against the loan. I told them, 'if I'm a corporation and you're a corporation, and my corporation needs a loan and you're in the business of loaning, and my corporation is viable with cash flow and assets, why should I expose my personal assets? After all, the primary function of incorporating is to separate the two". The response was at it's base, "Government regulations now demand it. We have no discretion". So that's the primary reason Private Equity has gained so much traction and market share. We just went out to PE, showed them our prospectus for the new building, and got the money. Simple papers, no hooks, no mountain of IRS returns, officer affidavits, etc. Just cash and business. Terms were agreed in about 10 minutes. Penalties in 5 more. Too easy- but, a predatory or dishonest PE could be Satan. As probably many are.

its just a motorcycle... nothing exotic about this bikes charging system at all. Regular charging system, just like thousands of other bikes out there. Stator output, regulator output, condition of wiring and connectors, relays etc... its a 22 year old bike with a 6 year old battery... this is more preventive maintenance than anything. I have 9 other bikes in the garage that i get 4-5 years out of each battery using the nefarious (LOL) Deltran Battery Tender and will NOT be using a PC545 battery because of its "unique" charging needs... and i STILL got 6 years out of it LOL New relays and Motobatt MBTX12U on the way....

We all need to come up w/a procedure to troubleshoot these charging issues . This is not this hard. The biggest problem(s) are skill level and misunderstanding. You hate to work on this a week to find a ring terminal off when you are messing w/the battery. The only problem you will have in ownership of these bikes : you will become a master electrician of 12v DC , theory , wiring diagrams be able to explain resistance , capacitance , inductance RD time constant and a bunch of other stuff your wife will NEVER want mentioned in her presence .

I dragged my feet too long and it sold to someone else.

2004 v11 Cafe Sport Oil pressure light ON with key ON, engine OFF GEI 20A/25A relays just ordered picker PC782-1C-12S-R-X replacement relays

No, soldered/shrink tubing. No room for wondering. On the Sport I can remove the stator and regulator as one piece.

I assume you used butt connectors to "hard wire" this connection ?

Mine had marginal charge voltage for a long time, eventually started coming home discharged and eventually quit while riding. Long story short is my stator-to-regulator wires had poor connections under the gas tank, evidenced by heat browning. I secured the connection and charge voltage went from ~13.2 to 14.5 immediately.

Perhaps @pete roper will chime in here. Don't Centauros have the same potential cam issues as Grisos? Would Griso ghetto be a more knowledgeable forum? There's a wrecked Griso nearby for -$1k.... if the price goes down I may have another project

Never have worked on a Centauro, but the symptoms would have me suspicious of the crankshaft position sensor.

Good work, so far, @orangem2! A few questions at this point: What year is your V11? Oil pressure light illuminates KOEO? What are you using for relays?

A little information..... I have owned a number of V 11 MG in my time, but never have I had this much trouble tuning one like I am with this Centauro. I have completed the usual tuning sequence, and replaced the TPS with a known good unit from another bike. With weather cooperating today, I went out on a road test and discovered the followin: 1. Idle is good once warm. The "choke" function works properly while cold. 2. Cruising under light throttle AND below 2000 rpm, the engine runs smoothly at any speed. 3. Accellerating from a stop or from any rolling speed or throttle opening is smooth and as powerful as expected. 4. Steady state cruising above 2000-2500 rpm through 4500 (that's as far as I dared go) precipitates extremely rough runnin, and I mean birdering on violent, at any speed in any gear. To me, the common issue is engine load/throttle position. This critically includes engine rpm (over 2000 rpm). I thought this pointed to the TPS but a new one had no effect on any of this. Conversation with Will Creedon suggested enrichening the ECU potentiometer setting. I found that ¼ turn increments, all the way to full rich did not positively affect the issue. (The last 90* of the available 180*, negatively affected idle and low speed running.) Does this information stimulate anyone's diagnostic ideas?