Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Gmc28 last won the day on December 2 2021

Gmc28 had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • My bikes
    02 LeMans (stable twins: 1 red/silver + 1 champagne), 00 Greenie, 99 Cagiva GC, '16 multistrada, KTM 990 ADV, Suzuki DR350/441, 50cc Vespa!
  • Location
    Dirt Road OR

Recent Profile Visitors

745 profile views

Gmc28's Achievements


Guzzisti (2/5)



  1. Gmc28

    Decent Tune-up

    I’ve also been eye-balling my throttle linkages, poking around for causes for my idle stumble during the warm-up period in cold or warm weather. Throttle linkage shouldn’t be the cause of that symptom, but just looking things over. She purrs like a kitten and runs sweet when warmed up, but starts hard (catches, then stumbles and quits, and a quick throttle blip kills it), and then stumbles every 5-ish seconds during those first “4000 revolutions”. Didn’t used to do that, and after a couple of tune-ups last couple of springs (post winter) she runs as good or better than ever except for that initial start period. I do now keep that right side idle adjust screw most of the way out. I used to adjust it back in to where its just almost touching the fuel lever on the TB, but I’ve started just leaving it out. Shouldnt’ make a difference, and makes it easier to do TB sync next time, but its a change. My eyes must have been deceiving me, but the other day i was looking over the left side idle adjust, looking to adjust the idle just a smidge higher, and after turning the screw in a little, could have sworn i saw some daylight between the adjustment screw and the lever….. how could that be? Looked around for linkage getting snagged somewhere (was idling just around 1000rpm), then finished double checking TB sync at idle and making just a slight adjustment on the air bypass screws, then looked again and the daylight i thought i had seen on that idle adjustment was gone. Hmm. Probably seeing things. Or was something actually hung up that i cleared from messing around down there (?). By that time, it was warmed up and idling and running fine, with the stumble gone. To be clear, she’s well tuned in accordance with “decent tune-up”, and when warm is idling around 1150 (slightly high by choice), has the minor and typical stumble in the mid 3’s rpm, but otherwise runs/idles/rides sweet once warmed. Just that hard starting and stumble, where even “idle lever” all the way up may barely keep it from quitting for the few couple minutes. Not sure I should bother with all my ramblings on this little issue of my persistent idle stumble during warm up, but maybe someone has some thoughts, and writing it down helps my brain sort through things, so here you go… some tedious reading material if you’re so inclined :-> cheers
  2. Adventure biking in the Yukon this week, on the “beast”. South end of Kluane Lake, a small detour on the way to Haines, AK. (It’s sideways… sigh)
  3. +1 - lets see a pic of the silver sport with the nifty turn signals!
  4. Took red out for a spin, with the sun showing itself this weekend, but just rode 4 miles down the local clear-premium gas station. She runs sweet, but she’s wanting to idle at about 800-900 rpm, so i may bump it up. Shop tune vs road test… Adjusted the valves on Greenie. Was musing about why all the locks nut were so brutally tight, then remembered that despite her age she’s only got about 1500 miles, so thats got to be the 23yr old factory valve setting/torque. Not surprisingly they were not that far off. If i was going to ride it hard I’d account/hedge just a little for the break-in, but I just set them to normal specs as it won’t be getting a lot of miles in the near or longer term. Old valve cover gaskets came off in pieces, much of it staying adhered to the cover, requiring some effort and time to get it all cleaned up. And rounded up some replacement M6 bolts for the generator cover. Between work, broken arms, and remodeling projects, she’s coming along slowly but surely… anyone know a good wheel cleaner product? Old topic, but the S100 wheel stuff i have isn’t working on the Duc spoked wheel rims (black rims), and arguably is making it worse. The spoke spacing makes them a real chore to clean and an ideal candidate for a spray on miracle product, if there’s one that will work for that kind of surface, an almost eggshell black.
  5. Mostly had to work on other house projects yesterday, but fwiw did compare several aluminum gray paints sprayed on some scrap aluminum to the original alt cover and the turn signal cover, and this Seymour “original non smudge aluminum finish” looked to be a very close match. And it says its good for engine blocks and such. Will see how it really looks later on the actual items that need the paint, and next to the VHT if it ever arrives.
  6. Many thanks. I put that on order last week with a local auto store, as no one around had it in stock, but “supply chain” and other issues make it several weeks away. All fine, but i was looking around at other options, and sure enough the aluminum paint that i picked up did seem more shiny than i prefer, so i grabbed a can of satin finish clear, and thats the next experiment i was going to try. But all while awaiting the VHT. I did grab a bit of “tool box red”, for the little area of nasty rust that I’ll be cleaning up and prepping on the frame. Low risk of issue there, for while its visible, its somewhat tucked in under things and not as obvious, and will have a weld joint as a border.
  7. Has anyone stripped and cleaned the turn signal dash aluminum cover piece and then just clear coated it? I’ve got some aluminum paint, but wondered about how a clear would look, if I can get a nice enough surface prep and etch.
  8. Just strip some of the aluminum bits, mostly cosmetic, but including “dash” light cover, generator/coil cover up front, and probably some other areas here or there that may not be removed from the bike (small, less visible area on block toward the front) but which I’d work on in-place (maybe). Haven’t tried acetone alone. If i can get piece off using one of those “scotch-brite type” wheels you can put on a 4” grinder, though i’ve only used those on steel in the past… not sure for aluminum.
  9. Mjolnir went missing a long, long time ago. The other hammers don’t deserve the exposure, though I’m still fond of them… On the paint topic, appears I’m going to have to mooch some Methylene chloride based stripper from the stash at the shop at work, as apparently only the environmentally friendly version is not available any more. I’ll only be a wee little bit environmentally naughty.
  10. Spotted this tonight, on the speedo. I recall seeing some threads and FAQ info on the gauges, but posting this now while its fresh, to fish for what the recommendation is for this issue -
  11. Interesting. I’d never tried S100 till last fall, as i had lumped it into the snake oil category with so many other miracle items, but a guy i know said it worked well for him. Tried it on my Duc wheels, as they are the spoked tubeless wheels and really hard to reach when cleaning, and didn’t seem to do anything, so that bottle sits on the shelf. Maybe its ok for other parts of the bike (?), but not working on wheels, and then not being good for the logos, well thats not a case for s100 so far for me… living on a gravel road was what caused me years ago to sell my beloved ST4… couldn’t take the anguish any more of it always rattling up and down that road, and always being dirty. I got over that, regretted selling the ST4, and then the county paved over half of the remaining gravel, so I got back on the wicked Italian bike wagon. But am still always interested in easier ways to clean the machines, as there’s still a bit of unpaved road left on my road. And the V11’s don’t rattle like the ST’s, with way fewer plastic bits. :->
  12. You mean the wood stove? Isn't Voglezang a brand of stove, or is it a style? My stove in the shop is just one of the double barrel stoves, where the kit with the door and feet is purchased cheap, and you add the barrels and a chimney. But heats fast and strong. Lot better than the propane options i've tried out there over the years that leave strange humidity and not enough heat. Inside the house is my hat-tip to the couple good Norwegians on this forum, as that's where I have my beloved big Norwegian Jotul stove. It's other title is my task-master. I spend too much time cutting firewood when i should be working on the motorcycle! My old house is too old and drafty, so the Jotul demands to be well fed. But in fairness it also keeps my 85 yr old father active, as he runs that chainsaw all summer... For those so inclined, the book "norwegian wood" is a quirky and interesting read. Yes, the multi-play on words is intended. figured it was just a coffee table book with nifty pics, but ended up being an interesting read.
  13. It was kept in a shed, that must have leaked. And spent its only active riding year in seattle where there's salt and rain... As i go through it i'm wiping off a lot of grime and mildew type stuff. But underneath in most cases is usually a "gleaming" surface of some sort, except in those cases where its bad, and then its often real bad.
  14. And here she is, on the budget harbor freight stand now that Red is done and out of the way for rest of year. Don't judge the glimpses of my messy shop.
  15. Touche doc. I'd tend to agree, but no obvious signs of hydraulic issues up above, and i'd have thought i'd see other signs of damaged paint leading to that area. But now that you mention it, worth a re-look.
  • Create New...