docc

Ha, yep: 7mm turns my ECU fasteners and 9/32" "feels about the same" . . . It is turning wrenches around the ECU and positive battery terminal that can throw VERY undesirable sparks.

SKF 6204 2RSJEM (Made in Argentina) KOYO 6204 2RSC3GXM (Made in Romania) After all this time/ miles, I keep destroying my rear wheel bearings. WTF? I've crushed my bearing spacer? It is definitely loose between the bearing inner races and not "captured" once the bearing outer races are seated . . .

I have managed to source some high quality bearings, but keep suffering bearing failures like never before. Perhaps it is my installation technique. Perhaps my short spacer is finally telling on me. Seems my pinion bearing is also suspect . . .

milar sent me this slightly larger image. we're still working on hosting and posting the hi-res scan . . .

Wow, so great, footgoose. Thanks! I am really struggling with my rearwheel bearings thinking it is something I am doing wrong. Perhaps it is that "silly millimeter?"

What is the correct bearing spacer length for the early Sport 4.5 inch rim? (I found mine to be 112mm, but cannot be certain it is correct . . . )

I must agree. I've long kept a flash of innertube over that corner of the ECU next to the positive side of the battery. Otherwise, treat all those connections with DeOxit and it looks like you've made a great improvement!

That is so terrific, Mike! Thank you so much for posting this! I tried to find the images no long ago to repair another thread ans could not find them on the vast web. (Let us see if we can post the hi-res images in Fileshare. I'm not sure the logistics of that, but will pm you since the image size may require hosting.)

The earliest Griso were 2-valve-per-cylinder? It was the early change to 4-valve-per-cyliner that need to be "rollerized." What would that cost like $800-1000US?

Yes, to the back/right/top of the gearbox behind the seat latch:

For sure, remove the caliper and turn the bleeder to the top for bleeding. That alone may solve it. Also, pull back the rubber boot under the master cylinder, inspect, clean, and grease. But only use silicon based lubricants around brake parts. Petroleum based lubricants will damage the seals. It is possible the WD-40 destroyed (swelled) your seals . . .

Both my failed TPS exhibited jumping (up and down) in the resistance (2000 Ohm range) with my Triplett DVOM. It was not apparent on the millivolt scale. This is testing the resistance through the TPS (potentiometer) slowly opening and closing it while reading the resistance. Normally, the TPS reads over one Ohm and scales through the tenths and hundredths, as I recall. My bad TPS would jump up and down at several points and even went "open" at a certain angle of opening. The Sport was getting hard to ride.

Looks like the CaCycleWorks PF3C is a good source, at least in The States. Probably half the price of a Moto Guzzi Part. And it seems the Harley-D part is No Longer Applicable (?) I'd like to say I can feel the difference between the PF3C and the PF4C, but that would be like trying out a new tire and declaring it "so much better" than the old tires. For me, that is likely only because the old tires were clapped out and any new tires would be a fabulous improvement. So, the stability of transitioning from closed throttle, as in coming out of a corner or maneuvering at parking, is resolved. The >hoogedie< jerking and jumping at slight throttle openings is also gone. My 49,000 mile TPS had just aged out, that's all. From my notes, it seems these potentiometer-based TPS might expire at 50-60,000 miles (80-100.000 km). I'll be checking mine at every tune-up now. So easy once the DVOM is hooked up, especially with a breakout harness. Again, I have never been able to see the glitches with millivolts, but Ohms give it away.

Looks like we've mixed a couple topics: "Cheaper source for TPS" and "Alternatives for the potentiometer based TPS." I have no way to separate these posts anymore, so let's all be aware there is more than one discussion going on in this thread. It's kinda like being at a party where the conversations and music sorta blend . . .

That's a good question. Mine lasted about 100,000 miles. Unless it has gotten wet from one of the eight oil leak opportunities in there . . .