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GuzziMoto

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GuzziMoto last won the day on January 3

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About GuzziMoto

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  • My bikes
    '07 Griso '01 V11 Sport '93 Daytona 4v '87 650 Lario Aprilia RXV550 Roadracer project
  • Location
    The skinny part of Maryland

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  • Interests
    Fast bikes and Loose women (except when my wife is around, then it is just Loose women.

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  1. That is the right order. If your springs are too soft, you will have to crank in the preload to get the sag right with the rider on board. This excessive preload will cause the free sag, how much it sags under just the weight of the bike, to be too little. Where as if the springs are too stiff you will have a minimum of preload resulting in too much free sag under just the weight of the bike. It can seem backwards, but it is right. It is all based on you adding the required amount of preload to get the race sag, the amount of sag with the rider on the bike, correct to start with. The amount of preload required will affect the free sag, and thus show you if your springs are too soft, too stiff, or just right.
  2. As mentioned, I have used them, only not on a V11 so I don't know about fit. I think the K&N oil filter is a quality oil filter. But the "nut" is just a stamped piece of steel that is spot welded to the rest of the filter body. I had issues with the filter body rusting at those spot welds and around the "nut". One filter rusted through and started leaking when the motor was running. That was when I stopped using them. If you want to try one, give it a go and post up the results. It is not quite yet riding season around here. At least not for me, too cold still. A younger me would ride in 50 degree weather. But not the current me.
  3. I don't know about all of the V11's, but I know the wife's '00 V11 has cartridge forks. It is not a completely sealed cartridge, it has bleed holes that allow the oil to bypass the piston that moves up and down inside the cartridge. But technically it is a cartridge fork. As mentioned before, if you block off one of the bleed holes on the cartridge body and force more oil to go through the piston valving you can get better control over the suspension movement. The linkage for the rear drive box is supposed to separate the torque of the rear gears and it's rotational effect from the suspension movement. So getting hard on the gas doesn't make the rear suspension try to extend. But it doesn't mean the rear suspension works perfectly. The shock can still have issues, and the massive weight of the rear drive box hanging on the end of the swing arm also adds it issues. A normal chain drive set up has much less weight on the far end of the swing arm, making life for other shocks much easier. It has been a very long time since I had a set of V11 forks open. But I find that if you take it apart it is easy to see how it works. From there you can figure out how to make them better. That is what I did many years ago. Setting sag should always be step one in setting up suspension. Make sure your race sag (my term for the sag with the rider on board) is right. Then check the free sag (my term for how much the bike sags under its own weight without the rider on board) is where it should be. Usually free sag should be around 10 - 15 percent of total travel when race sag is set to 30 - 40 percent of total travel. If free sag is too much that means your springs are too stiff, where as too little free sag means your springs are too soft.
  4. I have not tried the K&N filter, but being too tall would be my main concern. There are so many good quality filters out there I don't know why you would pick K&N. FYI, I have had issues with K&N oil filters rusting away, even to the point that the filter housing leaked. The rust was centered around the fake nut that is welded to the end of the housing. I reported the issue to K&N, including pictures. They sent me a new filter to replace the bad filter (nice of them). But my main concern was the issue with the filter design. While I have no issues with the company as a whole, I am not likely to use their oil filters again. But to be fair, since the V11 oil filter lives inside the sump and would be covered in oil both inside and out it is likely that it isn't going to have rust issues when used on a V11. But the big question would be whether or not the filter fits under the manhole cover on the bottom of the sump. I tend to use either NAPA Gold or WIX filters.They are fine for a V11. Other brands out there are also fine.
  5. That is a sweet looking hybrid. What a combination. Nicely done. Of course, I am partial to the Greenies.....
  6. That is easy to say until you hear them talking about how their brakes were "gone" from about halfway through the race and the had to run the last half just downshifting to slow down. No worries, I have great respect for those that do. But I will stick to racebikes with good brakes.
  7. Well, we drive it to and from work around 200 miles, mostly on interstates, on a single charge with some left over. If we take a nicer, non-interstate intensive route th erange goes up as running 70 - 80 mph on the interstate drains the battery faster than going the same distance at 55 mph. It also seems to loose a little range when we head west deeper into the mountains vs heading east from where we are like to work. Our level 2 charger (240 volt) charges it in 8 - 10 hours. The dash is interesting. It includes some sort of light up accent stripe. Very nice looking to me. It has heated leather seats and steering wheel. That actually helps the range as heating the seats takes less energy than heating the whole cabin.
  8. Well, so far so good. My younger brother bought one like a year or so ago. He has been happy with his, but he is a more urban type person. He lives something like 8 miles from where he works. So he drives it for days without needing to charge it. For us, one trip to and from work is most of what it can do on a charge. So we charge it more often, and we use a level 2 charger while he just uses the 120 volt level 1 charger. We went skiing this past weekend for a few hours. The place we go is only around 100 miles west of us, so I thought it would be easy there and back on a charge. But the combination of highway driving out and the mountain terrain meant by time we got there we had used over half the charge. Not good. But we took back roads coming back, roads we would ride motorcycles on in warmer weather, and the lower speed pace stretched out the range a huge amount. We stopped for a late lunch about 20 minutes from home, with what might have been enough charge to make it. But there was a fast charger there so we charged up while eating. Next time we take the EV to ski we will likely avoid the highways most of the way to stretch the range. Live and learn. And honestly, I think GM has some of the best tech of the American three. And that hurts me to say. I am an old school Plymouth guy, Mopar all the way. Dodge too. But right now Plymouth is gone and Dodge is way behind in tech. Ford is perhaps better, but I don't think they have near the tech that GM does. The new C8 Vette is amazing. GM has great high performance tech as well as great economy tech.
  9. Our newest car is the opposite of sexy. A 2020 Chevy Bolt (aka, Opel Ampera-e). It helps balance the carbon footprint of the Jeep Wrangler four door with 37" tires and a coilover 4" lift. Our drive to work is just under 200 miles round trip. I never thought I would own an electric car. It seems wrong. But they finally got the range up to where it is feasible for us, being able to drive to and from work on a single charge without worrying. Not as cool as the Riviera, but it can cover our commute with $3.50 worth of electricity. Even our Smart car used $12.50 worth of gas to make the same trip.
  10. The stock airbox will flow better than two small pods at most rpms, and as such will make a better spread of power. But the individual pods do look cool. The loss of performance when switching to pods isn't huge, and it has been done by some. But it is a loss of performance. If you go with pods, do everything you can to retain the rubber velocity stacks that serve as intake runners between the airbox and the throttlebodies. My Daytona has a really cool set of machined aluminum velocity stacks that were made to convert to pods, and I was able to get them to work pretty well. But if I could fit the airbox back on that bike I would. But it is pretty far from stock and the stock airbox would not fit with the V11 rear subframe and seat.
  11. Some V11's came with handle bars like that. But not the red frame greenies (which are the best V11's). However, you can either swap the top triple clamp for one from a V11 that did have the handle bars, or you can simply drill the holes in the top triple clamp and mount the handle bars using either stock bar risers or aftermarket bar risers. The bosses to drill for handle bars are typically there, just not drilled. I drilled the top triple clamp on the wife's red framed silver V11, and mounted the stock risers from a V11 Ballabio. I believe I even used the Billabio bars.
  12. The seller is ExtremeTradingLTD. It makes me think this is a shady deal. I would imagine they imported it from Japan to escape its past. As mentioned, it clearly isn't an original Scura. The question is, why? Is it just the wrong gas tank? Or is there more... I wonder what the VIN says. I wonder if it is a salvage / crashed bike. That is crazy money in my opinion. V11's are not common, but there aren't a lot of people looking to but them either. Being uncommon alone doesn't make it valuable. It also needs people who want to buy one. Either way, I hope it gets a good owner that shows up here.
  13. Part of the reason is the various versions of the forks have different adjuster set ups. And the fork caps have to accommodate the adjusters.
  14. I have the same attitude about wrenching, in most cases I figure I could do just as shitty a job as someone I would pay, cheaper. And maybe even better. Professional mechanics (and charlatans) rarely have the same level of concern for my things as I do. I might do the job slower, or even two or three times to make sure I got it right. They usually just want to get it out their door with the least effort required. If you find a professional mechanic that cares about your things as much as you do, or even close, that is a rare thing and I would suggest taking as much to them as you can. Guys like Pete Roper are not the norm, sadly. And I clearly am not as good as he is. But usually I am good enough.
  15. The extenders do not affect the springs or anything else inside the forks. Not even the air volume inside the fork is affected. They are basically a fork cap with an extra high lip. The adjuster is in the same place, which due to the extended lip, down inside the extended lip. And they do not make universal fork extensions. A fork extension for one Showa fork isn't likely to fit other model Showa forks. They are model specific. Could one for a GSXR fit a Griso? Sure. But it is more likely not. I have a set, as mentioned, if you want to see if it would fit what you are doing. I even have a spare set of GSXR forks, along with the set on the Aprilia and the set on the Daytona. I don't remember the details on the spare set, but if they would work for you you can have them.
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