gstallons
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$2200 shipping ? Yeow !
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It works for any MG . You just do not want to leave any fasteners in the pan when trying to loosen / remove it .
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Make SURE you have EVERY bolt out of the pan before you try removing the pan . Get under the bike and verify all the bolts/capscrews or whatever you want to call them are out of the pan .
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The seal driver is the way to go . You will install the seal perfectly and squarely in the bore of the fork leg .
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I would think you could go with the 41mm kit . 41mm is 0.039 in larger than 40mm .
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Trust me . you funk up enough EXPEN$IVE $tuff , you will never , ever put things together dry as long as you live !!!!!!!!
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I think your bike has been photographed more than Marilyn Monroe
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There is nothing hi-tech about a MG electrical system . This reminds me of a story concerning a VERY old garage in Wickliffe run by two very old mechanics . A buddy of mine said " the only thing hi-tech about Dreamy Haynes was an 8 volt battery ".
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Stainless steel is DRY . You must use a anti-seize lubricant to prevent thread galling .
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Do you have your manual with the wiring diagram in the back of the book ? Take it to an office store amd have it enlarged .
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Ahhhh , I now understand how the pull winding is "turned off" . Damn , that is a smart way to control the on/off of the pull winding on the solenoid . -
Just what are you calling cartridge or damper rod forks ? My parts manuals show the assemblies to be the "same" . The early style has a smaller diameter part(s) . Make sure what you get when you order . Joe Eish took care of me when I ordered my fork seals/bushings .
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I get mine at the NAPA store , can't remember the brand or part #
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Trust US , you will get the hang of it after running out of/low on fuel a couple of times !
