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Synthetic Oil


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2 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

I stopped buying Castrol when they started advertising Syntec as "full synthetic" despite the fact that it was made from a Group III mineral base oil.

 

My Kawi ate a camshaft lobe running on ActEvo. So, I switched away from Castrol. Now, for my various bikes, I have a shelf with Repsol, Valvoline, Mobil1 4-stroke and Motorex. All good synth oils - substantially better in most regards than what was recommended when the bikes were built.

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21 hours ago, docc said:

That is painfully true, it seems.

My old Castrol GTX apparently never hurt my Sport, but I can't have trust in their products anymore.

Frankly, it's hard to know who to trust. This is why there are nine billion oil threads on internet forums and blogs.

I feel confident in my RedLine (Group V/ShockProof) choices for the V11. My choices for my passenger vehicles and other motorcycles are "circumspect", at best . . . . :huh:

 

Hence docc my attitude that if the oil manufacturer doesn't have a PDS listing all the additive details then I'm not going to buy their product. The information provided on the container and in a lot of PDS is like a star rating on food or white goods these days. Designed for consumers that don't want to go to the effort of educating themselves on "the details". A marketing persons paradise.

Ciao     

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  • 2 months later...

Going thru papers for the hot rod V11, and spotted this on the Dynotech.de paper.
Kein Castrol verwenden.
Had to share.
Cheers Tom. 8adc06916cb408cc75d77c081dddfb80.jpg

Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

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Heh @Tomchri as my German is non existant and Scandanavians put us Brits to shame, can you give me a clue what you're pointing to?

Is it the 75/140 in the transmission?

I've just filled with 75/90 Royal Purple into my Guzzis but will probably up that to the 75/140 at the next change. I decided to get rid of the Redline Heavy Shockproof as there isn't any data sheets for it or specs it meets and that makes me suspicious (as does the miracle claims from their marketing dept). I'm not saying it bad but if I don't know what's in it I don't know it's good either.

Also see that DAS want the 20ml of Molycote addition to the bevel box where a lot of modern oil are GL4 & GL5 approved

I'm not being critical just asking the question as I'd like to know more and get the best lube that I can to minimise wear in the box

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7 hours ago, Weegie said:

Heh @Tomchri as my German is non existant and Scandanavians put us Brits to shame, can you give me a clue what you're pointing to?

Is it the 75/140 in the transmission?

I've just filled with 75/90 Royal Purple into my Guzzis but will probably up that to the 75/140 at the next change. I decided to get rid of the Redline Heavy Shockproof as there isn't any data sheets for it or specs it meets and that makes me suspicious (as does the miracle claims from their marketing dept). I'm not saying it bad but if I don't know what's in it I don't know it's good either.

Also see that DAS want the 20ml of Molycote addition to the bevel box where a lot of modern oil are GL4 & GL5 approved

I'm not being critical just asking the question as I'd like to know more and get the best lube that I can to minimise wear in the box

It’s correct what LowRyter said, and Google. And they were referring to engine oil. That note are a few years old tho. 
Yes we want the best for our bikes. Overdo is better than,,,, so l bought Orion 870 for gearoil, US made.

 Cheers Tom.

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I've always used Castrol 20-50 Synth Blend Motorcycle Oil in all my Guzzis.  I suppose since it was against factory recommendations that it explains gasket leaks, oil pump failure, fuel pump failure, transmission cracks  and voltage regulator issues.  Also my broken turn signals on my EV.

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  • 2 months later...

Here's another candidate to be used in our V11 engines;

Motul TWIN 20W-50

Motul Twin 20W50 100% Synthetic

Here's the data sheet;

Motul TWIN 20W50

The Motul representative said the ZDDP is 1300 ppm. While the amount seems to be relatively small, the "triple synthetic cocktail" is what makes this oil tailor suited for air/oil-air cooled old tech. engines. He actually did recommend that oil for the V11.

What makes the blend ESTER / PAO /GR3 better than a 100% Ester oil?

We already addressed the oil that serves as the basis for engine lubricant are classified in groups.

Group III, Group IV, Group V are all considered synthetic;

Group I, Group II are considered mineral oil.

A fully Synthetic oil can be either Group III, IV, V.

A semi-Synthetic oil is a blend composed of either Group I and II or both, and any of Group III, IV, V.

So what does a fully Synthetic blend made of Group III, IV (PAO polyalphaolefin ), V (Ester) achieve?

Group III and Group IV are very similar chemically. They have almost no cleaning ability. You would not expect to have any sealing issue with them, if switching from Group I and II oils.

Group V (Ester) synthetics have a higher degree of solvency than Group II, III or PAO base oils. This means they will dissolve additives and deposits more readily and may cause some seals to swell slightly. They also can remove some paints. These characteristics (other than paint removal) can be beneficial, so some oil formulators will add small amounts of ester base oils into their synthetic (Group III and PAO) formulations to improve these properties.

Note: my V11 has been leaking oil and my engine is painted black. I noticed some paint is gone on parts that were coated with the oil. CQFD! I can certify Liqui Moly oil has ESTER in it.... in the same way of thinking, I did not have a leak until the use of Liqui Moly oil.

You can call the Motul representative in the USA, the number is on their website.

The Twin 20W50 is available in the US, so it is one more option to consider for your V11. I am going to use it in my Le Mans at the next oil change.

 

 

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