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What did you do to your V11 today?


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16 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Think about how the clutch works. There are two clutch plates with an intermediate plate between them held together by a pressure plate and springs.  All three are located in the flywheel by splines. The inner splines fit the transmission input shaft splines. Engaging the clutch frees the plates. They are free to rattle back and forth because of the uneven firing order of the Guzzi engine. Naturally, as they do this, you can hear them. What you don't want to do is leave the clutch "engaged" for any length of time because of this. Bump it into neutral and release the lever as much as possible. That will reduce wear of the flywheel, clutch splines, and transmission input splines.

Well I understand this, but more specifically, the ducati friction plates are steel and the clutch baskets are aluminium. The plates wear groves into the baskets thereby creating more and mor play for the plates to move in.  Every 30K - 60K you would not just be replacing the plates, but the hub as well. Some aftermarket companies like barnett offer stainless steel baskets to offset the wear.

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7 minutes ago, knumbnutz said:

Well I understand this, but more specifically, the ducati friction plates are steel and the clutch baskets are aluminium. The plates wear groves into the baskets thereby creating more and mor play for the plates to move in.  Every 30K - 60K you would not just be replacing the plates, but the hub as well. Some aftermarket companies like barnett offer stainless steel baskets to offset the wear.

Not all Ducati baskets are aluminium most std ones are steel.Inner hubs are aluminium for the most part on a steel splined inner section separated by rubber cushions.

The rattle principle is the same though just less splines of one sort or another to gangle around.  

Ciao 

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12 minutes ago, docc said:

That is such  superb explanation. :thumbsup:

What has always led me askew is the use of the term "engaged" (versus "disengaged"). Must agree with footgoose on this: "engaging"  the control lever disengages the clutch (and twin plates with intermediate plate rattles and will beat hell out of the gearbox input hub). Lever out in neutral (or underway) and the clutch plates are all "engaged" with no rattle, no hub damage.

Can we agree that the clutch, itself, is "engaged" when the lever is out and all of the clutch components are gathered together by the spring pressure?

As highlighted above, I would suggest, "Pulling in the clutch lever disengages the clutch, itself."

And this, Chuck, "Bump it into neutral and release the lever as much as possible. That will reduce wear of the flywheel, clutch splines, and transmission input splines." is true wisdom. For some of us, hard won . . .

IMG_2567.JPG.jpeg

 

Well, thats interesting.. Basically the same as a ducati clutch but in reverse.. I was thinking the rattle might come from the plate rivets or somewhere in that part, not the gearbox spline.

There was no wear on mine here. 

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1 hour ago, knumbnutz said:

*Not mine but ducati basket

rider was undoubted deaf

Brad The Bike Boy: Ducati: The result of aluminium clutch basket ...

Yes,without doubt. Thats the worst I've ever seen, apart from the one that ripped all the fingers off the basket and scattered them to the 4 winds.

Ciao  

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7 hours ago, knumbnutz said:

Is that the difference between standard and single plate?

 

IMG_1031.jpg

AF1 Racing Aprilia | Vespa | Piaggio | Guzzi | Norton | Ural ...

Note that the Gutsibits kit uses Surflex friction plates which will eat the splines in the center of the plates in short order. To be avoided. Unsurprising they sell shonky shit given their history of thievery.

The single platers use a single diaphragm spring for pressure and incorporate anti-rattle springs in the centre of the plate. That one looks like one from an 8V.

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On 4/15/2020 at 12:43 AM, Lucky Phil said:

I think its well recognised that the standard airbox is by far the best scenario not only for the V11 but for every engine made in the last 25 years. Ask yourself how many modern motorcycles you see around with open bellmouths or pod filters these days. even race bikes havent done open bell mouths for 25 years or more.The airbox is part of the intake tuning methodology. The bikes you see with pod filters here sacrifice performance for a particular style and look not because it actually works better. Its one of the dumbest things you can do to your bike, no doubt. Apart from maybe raking the front end and using fork extenders with ape hanger bars.

Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

Ciao

Thanks for your answer and opinion!

I understand that there are different opinions on this topic ... No doubt, the aesthetic means something. I like the open bike / café racer style, but also weight reduction and ease of service. I have to give it a second thought ...

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5 hours ago, hammershaug said:

Thanks for your answer and opinion!

I understand that there are different opinions on this topic ... No doubt, the aesthetic means something. I like the open bike / café racer style, but also weight reduction and ease of service. I have to give it a second thought ...

Hammershaug-

Hei, hvordan har du det?  (That’s about all i can remember from what little my father taught me, other than a few other random, useless phrases having to do with cows or nails.... :->)

i assume it goes without saying, but all of us that are passionate about our machines tend to “dig in” on these topics.  To me, just another person with an opinion, its clear that it just depends on how you use the bike.  If you want it to run best, hard to imagine going away from the stock intake.  But then if you really want a bike that runs perfect, buy a Honda....

if its a machine that you have for a “Sunday ride”, and just makes you happy to ride now and then on a sunny day and as somewhat of a show piece, then the pods do look better imho.  

My experience so far over the years with non-stock air boxes has been about 99% negative, and sometimes very negative, with the only arguable success being on dirt bikes with single carbs, and where i spent a lot of time fiddling with jetting to get a final improvement.  But we have to admit that most of us love the aesthetic of the V11, and I’ve got one friend with a greenie who installed pods, and while he does have odd & endless tuning challenges, heck, most of us have some of that, and ultimately his runs fine and looks great.  

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Actually, I have to admit something. My clutch isn't entirely V11 twin-plate:ph34r:. Because when I did the mod, I could not source a V11 twin-plate flywheel.

Here is what I did:

- Aftermarket steel V10 Centauro flywheel
- Lemans starter gear (I think the latest Lemans before the V11, but unsure. It was a used part)
- All other parts V11 twin clutch (new) except for the intermediate plate (used, but V11).
To make this fit I used 8mm/m6 guide bolts (starter gear was M8, flywheel M6).

The reason I hook onto this thread with my remark about the absence of rattle, is that my clutch engages late. I mean really late. I suspected the pushrod, but lately found out that is not the issue. So I suspect my modified clutch (now has 10.000km of experience) is a bit too loose when engaged (i.e. plates compressed). For this I suspect two possible causes:
- Weak springs, I may have to go to either alternating weak+strong, or 8x strong.
- Too much room in the clutch due to the combination of parts not being standard...

 

I have the feeling my clutch will maybe last another 5-10k km. When it starts to slip, I will have to go and investigate....

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3 hours ago, Tinus89 said:

Actually, I have to admit something. My clutch isn't entirely V11 twin-plate:ph34r:. Because when I did the mod, I could not source a V11 twin-plate flywheel.

Here is what I did:

- Aftermarket steel V10 Centauro flywheel
- Lemans starter gear (I think the latest Lemans before the V11, but unsure. It was a used part)
- All other parts V11 twin clutch (new) except for the intermediate plate (used, but V11).
To make this fit I used 8mm/m6 guide bolts (starter gear was M8, flywheel M6).

The reason I hook onto this thread with my remark about the absence of rattle, is that my clutch engages late. I mean really late. I suspected the pushrod, but lately found out that is not the issue. So I suspect my modified clutch (now has 10.000km of experience) is a bit too loose when engaged (i.e. plates compressed). For this I suspect two possible causes:
- Weak springs, I may have to go to either alternating weak+strong, or 8x strong.
- Too much room in the clutch due to the combination of parts not being standard...

 

I have the feeling my clutch will maybe last another 5-10k km. When it starts to slip, I will have to go and investigate....

Sounds like Aussie bush engineering:)

Ciao

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Well I got Whitney running FINALLY . I thought the starter drive was hitting the flywheel so I got a new drive and fork from EME . installed everything . Started back up , same noise . Started kicking ( I admit ) and found the crossover rattling . 

Good excuse , I dig through my inventory of cardboard boxes , find a perfect crossover beneath my M4 slip-ons . On goes the crossover .  Well , here goes the M4s . Got it all on after prying , cutting , doing  everything but the Enerpac port-a-power trick . 

My GOD . The M4 slip-ons . Whoever was peddling these a week or so , you better get some . This bike went from a Singer sewing machine to Steppenwolf !

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8 hours ago, gstallons said:

Well I got Whitney running FINALLY . I thought the starter drive was hitting the flywheel so I got a new drive and fork from EME . installed everything . Started back up , same noise . Started kicking ( I admit ) and found the crossover rattling . 

Good excuse , I dig through my inventory of cardboard boxes , find a perfect crossover beneath my M4 slip-ons . On goes the crossover .  Well , here goes the M4s . Got it all on after prying , cutting , doing  everything but the Enerpac port-a-power trick . 

My GOD . The M4 slip-ons . Whoever was peddling these a week or so , you better get some . This bike went from a Singer sewing machine to Steppenwolf !

So it was you I heard earlier today. I was at my cabin in the Norwegian mountains and thought it was thunder...

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Today I removed the tank and did some fuel line inspection. More work to do... Fuel level sensor wiring was broken. (Now I know why I ran out of gas in the wilderness 7 months ago...) Breather hose and fuel hoses was worn.

 

1e86a1c15c0863a018fe3faa9e519d71.jpg

 

This is very embarrassing; I mixed/f*cked up and tried to close the «strange petcock» on the right side. Yes, I tried to close the regulator. After 15 turns I gave up and took off the hose. Nice and dry. Over to the other side. Removed the hose. Fuel! A lot of fuel. I was prepared for it and had a fuel hose and an empty petrol can beside me. I just drained the tank empty from the hose.

A greenie and his Greenie. That’s me folks!

I’m thinking about replacing the petcock. Any proven ones? Or just let it be and use pliers?

One more thing. There’s angels among us. Two thumbs up for a very helpful gentleman aka [mention]Tomchri[/mention] 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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