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Yes. Actuating the fast idle lever is the same as cracking the throttle it's basically a hand throttle or variable throttle stop. The engine ecu has a "cranking enrichment map" to add extra fuel for a pre determined amount of engine revolutions at start up. In the case of the V11 it is for 4000 engine revolutions and is at maximum "richness" from the first revolution of the engine tapering down to zero enrichment until 4000 revolutions have been done. This map is adjustable and one I modified on my bike to assist starting which was initially very hard with the 2 valve start enrichment map percentages. It is also active no matter what the engine temp is so even works with a hot engine. This is why when adjusting the CO level you need to start the engine and wait for around 3-4 min before any CO adjustment can be assessed by engine idling. In addition there is also the enrichment determined by the engine and OAT temp sensors which are added to the base map along with the Cranking map. At extremely low temps all this adds up to around 200% extra fuel at the initial hit of the button. This is also why your tank range is reduced quite noticeably with a lot of cold start cycles esp in cold weather. Add to this the TPS adjustment accuracy, wear in the throttle shafts and, how the air bleeds are set and valve clearances etc and it's a wonder they start at all, lol. They all start differently but in my experience all need a little throttle when cold. There is a big difference also between manual throttle manipulation and using the fast idle lever and using the twist grip. My bike starts very well using the fast idle lever before you hit the button but not as well if you try and manipulate the throttle by hand. The difference is quite distinct. Ciao

And she is idling perfectly 1100rpm +when warmed up ? Engaging high cam before ign on isn't adding any fuel, hitting the throttle ign on will, l think. If that's the only little procedure needed to get her going, l live with that. I do my best to have her running without the throttle linkage connected when tuning. And they all behave differently, even today's bikes. Sorry no conclusions, but many here like to hear other lads experiences with our one of a kind bike. Cheers Tom.

Welcome aboard docc. Brothers for different reason but still brothers Ciao

V100 wheelbase 58.5 inches V11 red frame wheelbase 57.9 inches, black frame 58.7 inches

Hi All, My '03 V11 Lemans, when cold, requires a twist of the throttle to start. The bike has always required a slight throttle manipulation for the engine to start & run when cold according to the previous owner. I figure the bike is fuel injected (15M PF3C)and shouldn't need anything other than run the "choke/enrichener/throttle plates" to high cam and hit the start button. When I do the high cam and hit the starter button, the engine cranks and wants to start...sometimes it will start momentarily then stall, other times it will crank and not start. However, it will always start & run with a little twist of the throttle. In early 2020, I had some time on my hands and did the "decent tune-up". IMO, since the tune-up, the difference in overall performance was a huge improvement. However, the twist of the throttle thing when cold still exists and was wondering if this is "normal". The owners manual says nothing about throttle manipulation during the starting mode. I have looked/checked for vaccuum leaks but have found none other than the TB vac ports which I capped off. The tb shafts have very slight wear/side play but they dont appear to be leaking...the bike only has about 10k miles on it. The TPS seemed to have a smooth transition though the mv range when I set it...no hiccups. The mechanical high cam linkage & tb linkage are in good working condtion..no slop. The crank position sensor was out for a new oring, found no metal debris on the sensor. Plug wires & caps were replaced because one cap had tip over damage & high resistance. Air filter was replaced. Engine & air temp sensors seem to be working and display ambient temps until engine heat causes a rise. Thanks for reading. Art

Thank you. I ask because there are apparently some FI systems which send a primer shot through the injectors before cranking begins. I have cycled the key/pump on and off and on again and it does seem to fire off more quickly. It's the effect that might have on the pump and relays that makes me leery of the practice.

G'day Mines the same from dead cold she needs a wee bit o throttle before she ba-booms into life... Same as Doc's fires first touch of the button after that. Cheers

The Centauro, Mighty Scura, Rosie the Rosso, and a friend's Daytona all start the same way for me. Just crank it, crack the throttle to *just* the right place and it starts right up. They'll crank forever if you don't do that, for whatever reason..

Art, my bike needed a twist to start, just as you described. It came alive with a Ba-boom to wake the neighbors. I always felt bad about getting rpm above idle with low oil pressure. Then I loaded Meinolf's BIN file to the ECU. After that it starts and idles without touching the throttle.

Yep, same here when cold. Once it has come up to operating temperature, it starts with no throttle even if has sat for a few hours.

I need to learn to be be more patient…. Just a couple days after I posted above, I hear from Joe! He says the job has made it to the shop floor. Accounting for the heat treating, completion is expected February. Joe is also making the relieved cam flange available.

I cannot imagine that anything coming out of Mandello, even named "Mandello", will be "problem free not needing any recalls." i think docc has summed the situation up perfectly. Those of us who have Guzzi’s with the 1200 8v engine know this only too well (unless it was a post 2013 factory roller tappet model). The roller tappet engines are pretty well bulletproof, but is took Guzzi 5 years to get them into standard factory production, and anyone with a flat tappet motor should get it rollerised as Pete Roper has throughly documented The new liquid cooled, wet clutch motor is a much more radical development for Guzzi, and I for one would wait several years for any teething problems to be ironed out before contemplating ownership

The optics are fantastic and it may be the safest way to travel in Paris. 😅

At least we know why I'm insane. Some people are insane and nobody knows why . . .

A big torquey single with zero aerodynamics may not even need 90hp. I can get behind farting around on both city and back roads, and maybe tucking down for " the ton", but we'll have to wait and see. It may just be for posers and perfume commercials....

And the published "dry weight" of the RedFrame Sport: 219 kg/ ~482 pounds. Actual rolling weight? More like 245-250 kg / 545-550 pounds. (half tank of fuel and panniers with "necessaries", yet lightened 33 kg/15pounds with cf exhaust cans and fuel vapor recovery mod)

115hp, 1042cc, 77 foot pounds of torque, engine 4" shorter than the latest small block etc. My 8V Griso is 110 HP, 1151 cc, 80 foot pounds of torque at 6400 rpm. Yes I know the old Guzzi big block even in 8V form supposedly couldn’t be made Euro 4 / 5 compliant, and I can clearly see the new engine architecture that now includes a wet clutch does shorten the power train, but at the moment I couldn’t find a reason to change my Griso for a V100. I can’t see how the V100 would improve the riding experience compared to my Griso, whose 8v engine design dates back to its launch in 2007 this isn’t meant as criticism of the new liquid cooled V twin, because there must be masses of future development potential, it’s just if this is its spec as launched I won’t be rushing out to purchase one. As I’ve often stated, the Griso 8V with decent mapping is a very good ride indeed…..

To add to that, the vertical alignment of the wheel is more important then the track within reason. If your chasing a mm or 2 track alignment on a road bike you're insane. Most alignment issues are either a design compromise or manufacturing tolerances unless the bikes been crashed badly. There is a limit to how much you can use spoke wheel offset and hub shimming to correct track misalignment and it would be my view that any slight alterations you could achieve within the sensible range of that wouldn't be worth the effort. Ciao

Years ago I did the original 'Stay Upright' defensive riding course here in Australia and it included a vertible circus of low speed tight turns that vexed even the most experienced rider. I noticed that tip in differed when doing tight figure 8's and that's when I made an alignment board to check that both wheels were indeed tracking one behind the other. So although at the speed of death race conditions (where I don't ride) it may not be noticed but I can tell in a lot of carpark situations. And once noticed it hard to forget. So both answers are right, I want to be correct and I can feel the error. Chris.

Chris - is because you just want it to be "correct" or because you can tell the difference when riding? Phil is saying that pretty large offsets have worked fine on race bikes. I would assume it less important on the street. The fine adjustment seems Much Ado About Nothing.

That tactic is effective with SWLMA (She Who Loves Me Anyway). Worked recently on the LM5.

Because on an uncrashed shaft drive bike there's nothing you can do about it except live with it unless you want to strip it down and take it to a frame aligner. Which then beggars the question, how much misalignment can you live with or find acceptable? If you know a shaft drive bike hasn't been down the road in a serious way some things are better not to know. Ciao

I found a Nero Corsa at the foot of Mount Whitney in the Sierra Nevadas... it followed me home, so I guess I get to keep it.

I suppose we are approaching the end of the year and no word on gear set production. I'm not going to pester Joe, but hope that we are getting closer to a production run. I'm in no hurry as I'm just getting them to put under my pillow at night to keep the bad timing juju at bay . . .

Pete aka "Street" from the Griso Ghetto Forum created this nice image ... ;-)