Leaderboard

This is the place to list what you, as a member here, have for sale. "PLEASE READ! 1. Registered members can post personal ads here." Links to Commercial products should be posted in " Commercial Ads " ( "Dealer's (or commercial enterprises') ads only.") If you wish to start a discussion about a V11 listed for sale online or on another website, please post it in 24/7 V11 or on this thread:

Rebuilt the slightly dragging rear Brembo on my '03 Le Mans Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

My opinion of the purpose of these idle air bleed screws is ; to adjust the idle speed of the bike . You have set the base idle with the throttle plates/TPS . You go through each step and do not go backward , but forward .

I have a Jeffries MyECU. The TPS can be set anywhere from 0.0v to 150mv but you have to edit the text file manually to reflect the idle TPS value. There is no way to know the airflow through the airscrew passages. The best theoretical sequence for balancing throttles is to close the butterflies to as close to zero as possible physically, then set idle speed with butterfly position screws, then balance idle vacuum with idle air screws. In practice, there is no need for either or both screws to pass any air at all, as no fuel is drawn in by them and injected fuel must pass the butterflies by moving air so having them open a little farther at idle is a good thing, as long as you can adjust your TPS to suit. If your butterflies are equalized by position at idle, they are equalized by position all the way through their travel; if you have significant variance in vacuum anywhere in the rpm range you have to look elsewhere for the root cause. Usually it's valve adjustment or intake valve carbon deposits. It can also be unbalanced fuel injectors, as the A/F ratio and atomization also contribute to vacuum. Not to be ignored is the likelihood that the camshaft is not perfect with symmetrical timing on both cylinders. You can adjust vacuum slightly by adjusting intake valves differently from side to side. All these are reasons I use the 80/20 rule on cylinder balance; I care most about idle quality and light throttle drivability than whether I'm getting 30hp from one cylinder and 34 from the other at 4500rpm. Adjusting EFI to perfection is a fool's errand if you're not being paid for it. If you're not certain you have everything satisfactory after your tune-up and balance, read your spark plugs. They are the definitive arbiter of your A/F mixture differential.

From what I can see , if any of my bikes looked like that , I would prefer to "waller around" on the ground instead of a bike stand .

What I do is, first, service and adjust/shim the pivot assembly, then position the pedal lever where it will just clear the Frame Side Plate on the downstroke (in every gear as it seems the travel is greater in certain downshifts), then position the gearbox arm on the shaft splines (remove the pinch bolt and pull the arm off to reposition) where the arm is parallel to the shift extender when the lever is in the "relaxed"/ready position. Adjust the connector rod length accordingly.

Here's an old advertisement that I hadn't seen before. Was this from an old catalog?

Yes, ok. Took a ride. All the gears work. Shifter IS totally different, stiffer, crisper. I need to adjust the position of the shift lever up a bit for my foot, but other than that its a big improvement!

I recall we gave this Sport some good reviews before. Other than the Rizoma bars (which necessitated drilling the top triple clamp), aftermarket horns, an auxiliary tail light, and Staintune canisters, it looks very original. Down to the fuel evap canisters still in the tool tray. There are what appears to be Bosch relays in the right places and a rather rare Stucchi rear rack. It does appear to be missing the eagle badge from the right Frame Side Plate. Just to remind us to pay attention to ours . . .

If I understand the factory 1100 Sport-i ECU correctly, the TPS value is intended to reflect a specific throttle blade position, which guarantees that the fuel map and the airflow match up correctly. If that's the case, idle speed needs the separate adjustment of air screws. I'm not familiar enough to make intelligent comment beyond that.

+1 on what Weegie said about the air bleeds being "insignificant . . . at any significant throttle opening." In other words, do not expect them to change the rich/lean (AFR) condition. This is the function of the "map" in the ECU.

The ultrasonic method is the only way to go !

Interesting @Pressureangle I don't know if I'm setting up my Sport correctly but I close the airbleeds then balance at 2k and 3k rpm on the butterflies the idea is both TB's get the same amount of fuel so I try ensure they get the same amount of air, at 3k hopefully they are starting to flow a reasonable amount of air Then I set idle using the throttle stop on one side only (other side is screwed way out). Finally I adjust the air bleeds to balance the TBs at idle. Correct me on this if I'm wrong but my thinking is the amount of air fed via air bleeds is pretty much insignificant in the scheme of things compared to the butterflies so they've negligable effect at any significant throttle opening. I agree on the statement regarding getting it perfect I just get it near enough at the 2k and 3k mark and average a little

great description docc

Sadly, all of our discussion of this interesting listing was lost since our "Classifieds" topics "disappear" after 60 days. Let's begin, again. This V11 Sport is worth consideration . . .

Those will probably Morph from 90 degree Barrels to 60 Degree Barrels in a couple years

Hard to believe those are only 750cc. They look more like 750cc each . . .

While I'm this far apart and waiting, I'll have my injectors cleaned and perhaps buy a new/rebuilt set for the shelf depending on price and time. I found these guys and an interesting table of injector data including our green IW-031. https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-injector-cleaning-and-flow-testing-service/fuel-injectors/fuel-injector-data/weber-fuel-injectors/

Enjoying myself with the 1164ccm, rear part cleared. CF fender and a homemade protection plate fitted. Woud anybody know what fork holders are mounted? Moving forward on the bike. And what was inside the tranny when doing the Chuck spring [emoji85]. None of the metal parts, bits was hardened, gears undamaged The ss bolt, how the H ? Tranny worked fine, but she was charging 18V, so not many km this season. Beliveing tranny had plenty of Molycote, took some to clean the level glass. Taking care of that in hibernation time, and will she come back to a Greenie? Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

Exactly the purpose of this thread and those like it. The variations are knowable. I am working on a plan to add a third image to the tank/ steering head views, above, showing the short tank/long (black) frame of 2002 and the 2003 Carryover Sport. edit: Done. Thank you, @MartyNZ Also, I am planning to create a pinned topic specifically for the 2003 Carryover Sport. edit: Done . . .

Unless you have a syringe that can generate 45 psi, I don't think that will replicate the actual spray pattern.

I always grow attached to stuff, whatever it is, and can never let go of it. Be it a book or a car. The more I have it, the less likely I am going to let go of it. There is only one reason I am going to part way from some of the things I have accumulated along the road; death! I have seen now enough around me, to understand that all those souvenirs that we could not live without are probably not going to matter to those you leave behind. For the most part. I have a large collection of guitars, and I have seen what happens with those lot purchasers. So I am going to set my affairs in order. As long as I can stay topside of my Le Mans, it will stay with me. But if my health decays to the point where I can only look at it from afar, I will find someone to perpetuate its desire of motion.