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It should be noted this SuperSpring is available nowhere else. It was specifically and expertly designed and tested by our treasured member @Chuck and diligently produced and stocked by @Scud (The Keeper of the Springs ). The entire re-engineering backstory is on the 59 pages of this thread. Accept no substitutes.

Thanks for all the input guys! It still amazes me that my little problem can have such helpful technical input in very short turnaround from all across the world! Kentucky, Oregon, Maryland, Germany and Scotland. V11 LeMans is probably one of my most treasured websites. And thanks to all who keep it up and running! I'll post my cause/corrective action once it is determined.

FYI - there are two types of sub-frames. The larger of the two was introduce starting in the 2002 black (aka "long") frame models, which includes your Scura. It has two arms that attach to the engine block. The "tiny" version would be on a red (aka "short") frame bike - or black framed special edition Rosso Mandello. While you have bled the clutch many times, can you confirm whether you have pressure at the lever? In other words, when you pull the lever in, does it resist? Also - when was the last time the clutch was working correctly? You mention that you are the original owner. So I assume your Scura has the original clutch, which is a high-performance, single-plate unit mated to a lightweight and problematic aluminum flywheel. Unfortunately, that high-performance comes with a short lifespan. Are you aware of the problems with the flywheel cracking on Scuras? Sorry to add your list of potential troubles... but I think it might be worth taking the transmission or engine out to inspect that flywheel. Many of us Scura owners have replaced the stock clutch with an aftermarket RAM single plate unit. It's an easy swap (after the difficult part of getting to it).

The only time I have had relay failure (OMRON, even) was from a combined regulator + stator wire failures that (apparently) were throwing some nasty voltage spikes. Have a close look at the regulator voltages and visually inspect the yellow wiring at the stator under the "alternator cover" . . .

You mean you didn't notice that the horn wasn't working? You're obviously far too passive to be operating an Italian vehicle, and I'm afraid I must recommend you sell it and buy a Honda.

Just for fun, besides the misspelling (and I don't mean PORBETTI for BORLETTI ). Poor Betty . . .

The oil cost is peanuts compared to replacing the ring gear and the pinion. I found a used one on eBay, for 200 USD. But it looks rough, and the seller says he was unable to tell me the mileage. I am saving the drained oil. The shavings are not much different from those I have gotten before on other oil changes.

No doubt for some people a locking gas cap is useful. It would prevent both people stealing gas from your tank and also prevent people from putting foreign objects / substances into your tank. I don't live or frequent places where a locking gas cap is overly useful to me. I really don't need one. That said, the V11 Sport came with a locking gas cap and the OP is having and issue where that locking mechanism is stuck. To be fair, it could be stuck even if it wasn't a locking gas cap. Unless your gas cap is screw on, most all gas caps have some sort of mechanism to secure it to the gas tank. Whether that mechanism uses a key or just a knob doesn't really enter into it, unless you think a gas cap that secures with a knob you twist would be less likely to seize up then the stock mechanism operated with a key. That could be true, but either way the OP needs to free up his current presumably key operated mechanism now. gstallons suggestion to make sure the key being used operates the seat lock and / or steering lock before you get too crazy with it. It is always possible that it is not the right key. I don't know about others here, but I have tried to use the wrong key on a motorcycle.

My mailbox was at 100%, so I just purged it. I do still have a quite a few springs.

Ok. I need to look at this in the AM. If I recall, it attaches at the pork chops and also on the upper frame somewhere. I need to think about how I am going to brace this thing. Maybe a motorcycle jack under the motor and a cherry picker for the rear frame section. There is a special place in hell for Italian and German automotive engineers. Yes, bled more times than I want to recall.

Turns out she also had ALL those symptoms, but I hadn't noticed as I had not been riding in full darkness (came home just about sunset). Replaced relay #2 and all is good again. And this is why I carry spare relays under the seat, even though I had previously replaced all the stock relays with Omrons.

That would be Vague-liar ®

Yep, I had the same problem. Turned out it was Relay 5. Easy fix! What I did find out though as I looked closer was the female terminals on the back of the relay block were not secure in place as they could be. I think that pushing and pulling over time loosened their footing. I pressed all of them in to be sure, and applied a little Deoxit to the relay spades before gently pushing them back in. I'm not sure if the relay blew from old age or not having a secure connection. All is well now.

Last summer a guy up here had clutch trouble with his V11. It was the slave cyl. Visible grazes on the piston. Flat on the back side, doesn't need much room to remove. Not many around, found 2 in Denmark last year. Rivets let go on my Rosso Corsa clutch = no clutch. Changing the clutch is like having desert compared to interweb and likes. Cheers Tom.

You show me a picture like that on a mid-May afternoon? I am going back to pruning my blueberries.

The engine is engaged to the transmission in a meaningful, powerful relationship that cannot be separated by mechanical force, as designed. AKA "The clutch don't work"

Yes, there is resistance. Feels right, no clutch. Thank you for the education on frames. I have not gone out to reinspect, but what you are describing lines up with what I recall. Makes sense that the "tiny" sub-frame is easier to remove. All stock. I am aware that some have had issues with the flywheel and many have not. While I don't throw a lot of credit to MG these days, I also understand that some people drive their bikes much differently than others. So, if I need to go to the clutch, I will inspect the flywheel carefully and make a decision. If not, I will live with it as is. Thanks again, good info.

Same here . If it weren't for this site and members , my bike would have been The H.L. Hunley of the 21st Century !

My TIMEX "is still ticking" . . .

I’ve watched them on Moto America for a few years. They are not really baggers. They’ve modified frames, suspension and hopped up the motors. its usually HD vs Indian. they do have some credible riders tho

IDK how much the oil costs but I'd do it again in 100 miles because you are getting the wash of the interior of the assy. I assume you are saving this fluid and "shavings" from the drain plug ?

After reading a lot of literature about that same subject on the web, I have decided to repeat the fill with fresh oil, short run, and check. See if the amount of burrs changes one way or the other.

Those bagger races are stupid🤮

Or put one of these on it. I did, and it is great. With that, you can bleed the clutch like this:

I have some Mick. Phil

I have an only owner, ever too. It has 10,000 miles on it. First week of ownership it had a short and went back to the dealer, shortly after the factory-installed incorrectly-sized tranny spring blew. Which I changed, to the correct-sized spring, thanks to this site. Then the rear bearing blew, and I changed the incorrectly-sized factory installed spacer, and replaced the bearing, thanks to this site. The reflector on the headlight bulb fell off into the bucket. I threw that away. The breather hose disintegrated, a microswitch for the brake light failed, fork seals failed, the gasket for the timing cover failed, now the clutch is out. If I power through the trauma I can probably come up with a few more but its late and I am not that strong anymore. I don't need an operator, how about a factory team and a trailer full of spare parts?

Remove the subframe with the tube running across the slave cylinder. It's pretty obvious how it's bolted in when you look at it. Have you bled the clutch? Phil

Swing arm is out. It's the sub-frame that's the problem. If you look to the OPs posted photo, it's pretty clear. Bjorn spoke about removing the "tiny" sub-frame. Not sure what he was referring to or how it is removed. Too bad about his photos. In plain English, "the clutch don't work".

Removing the slave cylinder is best done with the swingarm removed. What "clutch issues" are you trouble shooting?

Thanks. I know what the slave looks like. I need to get at it. The sub-frame, as I guess you know, is in the way. Is there any way to swing that sub-frame up and out of the way? It does not look like it can be rotated up. I am trouble shooting clutch issues. I have already rebuilt the clutch lever plunger, reservoir and related grommets. Slave is the next stop before I pull the engine and check the clutch out.

I just tried to send Scud a PM, as I understand that he is the "Custodian of the Spring", but the forum told me he is "unable to receive messages". So hallo @Scud, or anyone else who has one of the springs available: a chap in a German forum would like one. Are there any available?

Sadly, @Bjorn's outstanding images have been lost to the ether. Removing the the clutch slave cylinder is best achieved with the swingarm removed. Yet, it begs the question, "Why are you removing the slave cylinder, @JGP?" View of the rear of the gearbox with the swingarm out (clutch slave at 8:00 from the red circled main electrical ground):

There was a photo following this reply which is no longer active. Is there anyway to repost it? I am trying to get the clutch slave out of my Scura and I am not seeing an easy answer.

That's not the only misspelling on there. On the left of the dial, it should be "hardlies", as in "Hardly Driveable". But apart from that, the dial shows all the information one needs. What else could one want to know?

Is that a registered trade mark?

Good advice here. I'm also for checking if the pump is getting power before delving in to other possible problems.

No other symptoms that could implicate Relay #2 (headlight / horn/ brake light )?

And who could forget...

A classic relay issue was turn the key on and the fuel pump doesn't run. The wifes V11 did that shortly after she bought her V11. She turned it off at a gas station and when she went to start it the bike would not start. The fuel pump did not run when you turned the key on. Turned out it was the relays. The OP said they swapped relays, but that doesn't mean the issue isn't the relay or the relay base. It could also be the relay is holding out the fuel pump for a reason. I could be wrong but I thought I remembered there being a safety where if the side stand was down and the bike was in gear (i.e. not in neutral) the fuel pump would only run if the clutch was in. But I am not sure and am not in front of one to check. But before you get too far of into the weeds, is there power at the pump? If yes, no point tracing power to the pump. If not, you have to figure out why not.

I used a GoPro on ball that mounts in the hole freed up when I switched to bar-end mirrors. I just got the quad-lock system for phone and like it. Have not been recording any videos lately. But here is one I did a few years ago when I had a Greenie...

Your speedo works? Lucky

I was three weeks old, the last time a French rider won the GP. I think they broadcasted the race by telegraph.

This one? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19827

I got mine under the same circumstances. The seller had purchased a lot, however the Quota was the single motorcycle. The rest was cars. I wish I could find out where that dashboard clock came from. My Quota has a hole at that exact same spot, having the time is really helpful. The analogical clock I tried on my Le Mans did not work very long....