Leaderboard

I had to get moved into my new office to be ready for Monday and the high today was a cloudy, moist 61' so i snapped a pic of the old gal in the shop. Next tiome i go out for ride, will take more pics. I'm planning a 4 day trip to Black Canyon of the Gunnison, early July. Considering what she was like when i got her, she cleaned up well, but still carries the numerous small scars of neglect.

You might wedge a small bottle of octane improver in the monkey paw for such occasions. Relatively high compression, high ambient teperatire and air cooling tend to invite pinging. Living near Seattle, I have a liquid-cooled V11.

easy replacement of clutch lever. took 5 minutes, did not see a puck or a little ball that might fall off. the end of the cable did have a round protrusion shaped like a ball that fit into the lever socket like an elbow joint. didnt seem like that ball could fall out. all set. I recognize the damn sure zip tie as a good idea after seeing how this is all put together.

Dealer said 500+ $ for internal pump 8years ago. Bought 2 Quantum pumps for 150$. NO problem so far. Cheers Tom.

Don't forget to crack test it. Pointless wasting money rebuilding a cracked head. Phil

Owners manual pdf I have is 42 mgs. Too big to post. I can put it online somewhere and get you a download link if you want.

Aliexpress docc, 18USD plus shipping. Phil

Not that particular song, but the band of course. The song I remember best is, predictably, this

Download it on the This old tractor site. Phil

My original 2000 V11 Sport external fuel pump measures 111mm long by 55mm diameter (across the body where it mounts). The fuel pump I got from MG Cycle ("replacement for Bosch"/ "Quantum") is 112mm long (body between hose connections) and 52mm diameter. Three years ago, it was $55US, before shipping/taxes. I never installed it after I found my fuel pump issue was relay related. [edit: I see the price has not changed ($54.56US). There are no stampings or markings on the part and I see nothing on the website.] Here is where I got the "Quantum" name: https://www.highflowfuel.com/fuel-pump-oem-replacement-hfp-603-qfs/ [edit #2: Flow Rate: 190LPH; I could not find a flow specification for the Moto Guzzi external pump.]

Do you remember this one?

I rode for the Motorcycle Tour of Texas yesterday. 447 miles loop in South East of Texas. I refueled twice the V11, and both times, no Premium fuel available. Only regular gas at pumps that are clearly showing their age. This is something I have started to notice in the more rural parts of Texas. The small towns with populations inferior to 1000 individuals. Many closed down gas stations; the surviving one being completely run down. As soon as you leave the most traveled paths, using the back roads, gas stations look decrepit and for many, only two choices, Diesel or Regular. TopTier fuel is not even in play. In these areas, they don't have premium fuel because the cars used there don't require it. As before, there wasn't any noticeable difference burning 87 Octane gas in my Le Mans.

Yes; Done by MPH, including a custom map for the exhaust system. This got rid of the 3000 rpm hiccup, and got my fuel consumption in line with the rest.

A band from Melbourne, perhaps slightly influenced by the Ramones. I recorded that a long time ago. 12 songs, multi-track recording and mix-down in 3 days.

I ask because I have rebuilt my clutch master cylinder. Twice. The spring inside can fracture, sometimes into multiple parts . . .

I just looked back at the first post in this thread, and noticed this: I'm rather surprised that no-one has pointed to this yet: They are still available. @Scud has them.

My observations are that the engine is very sensitive to fuel quality. I've seen a 10% difference in fuel economy between tanks across the country- octane is ping resistance, but it doesn't correlate directly with energy content. I've never heard my own engine ping, but I have a MyECU with the ignition base map having been worked out long before I tuned the fuel. A couple points- Octane obviously is the primary indicator of ping resistance; do you always use premium, or are you running 87 ever? At what RPM are you having the ping? Oil of any sort always reduces octane. Have you any indication of oil consumption? Though I don't experience it, I would expect a hot engine, such as having waited a long light on a hot day, to ping at lower (<4k) rpm with heavy throttle. As a matter of course, when I know I'll be riding less than aggressively I'll run a tank through with Marvel Mystery Oil to wash off any meaningful carbon deposits. I will also periodically run a bottle of Chevron Techron, between the two additives it keeps the combustion chambers and fuel injectors as clean as possible. I discovered upon having my injectors cleaned that the flow was down considerably from stock, and very different from side to side as well which made tuning impossible.

Thanks, @gstallons, THAT is a Great Point. I am certain you nailed it. i used the factory mounting rings and cut 3mm rubber strips from an MX innertube, but she's really tight in those clamps and i'll bet the 3mm strips simply are not enough cushion so now the pump, when in operation, resonates very nicely... Wish i could use the rubber cocoon the factory pump fitds so nicely in. There are used factory pumps on ebay, listed by a German salvager, only $175 or $250, as George Patton said, "Nuts." Hmm... Gonna have to come up with something different. And keep my eyes open for a reasonably priced factory pump.

Out scouting out sites on a nice warm pre-summer day! The bike always puts a smile on my face even when parked! Got one zerk fitting lubed today on the Scura after putting fresh grease in the motorcycle trailer wheel bearings, now have to work on the other two "awkward" ones with a needle attachment coming soon.

Why would you want to do that? The music is fantastic... Seriously, though: the video is from Stein-Dinse, so I would be inclined to trust it. It looks good to me, but I haven't had the heads off mine yet, so I can't say for sure. Perhaps @pete roper or someone else with appropriate experience can comment. The texts that appear in the video mean, more or less, this: Take out the spark plugs and undo all the valve cover screws. If the valve cover sticks, it can be loosened with a couple of gentle taps with a hammer Loosen off the valve play adjustment screws, and turn the crank to TDC to take the pressure off the rockers Undo the bolts holding the rocker shaft, and remove the shafts. Attention: take care not to lose the washers when taking out the shafts. Remove the push-rods Remove the "stopper" Loosen and remove all six head bolts, and remove the rocker block Remove the oil line Remove the head and the head gasket Remove the cylinder block Put something (a rag, for instance) under the piston to prevent small parts falling into the crankcase Remove the clip on the piston pin Remove the piston pin and then the piston Hope that helps.

Look, as I keep saying. If you want confirmation? Just pull the bevelbox and pull out the pinion carrier and pinion. You wouldn’t hesitate to pull the back wheel if you had a flat tire would you? Well it’s the same deal and then four more nuts that hold the bevelbox on. Once it’s on the bench all that is required to pull out the pinion carrier is to separate the flange from the casing. Sometimes it will simply pull out with a tug on the pinion. Sometimes you need to give the flange a couple of biffs with a hammer and drift to get it to separate a bit and then you can pry it forward until it comes loose and you can pull it out. Once it’s out the head of the pinion is staring you in the face. All these bevelboxes are essentially the same. All the way through from the T3 to the last of the California 1100’s. Yes there are differences in the lengths of the spacers in the box and these are easily swapped, then there was a change in about 2002 to the depth of the spline spigot in the crownwheel carrier, your Quota will need one of the earlier type. Apart from that the earlier Tonti boxes had 7/33 gear sets rather than the 8/33 of the Quota and of course the case has a shock mount on it whereas yours has a rubber bung filling the hole. Older Cali bevelboxes must be ten a penny in the US. Mark at Guzzi Classics probably has a dozen of them! If this had happened to me I’d just be buying a Cali box, checking it was sound and sticking it on. There is no need for it to be a Quota bevelbox. I can’t stress strongly enough. If you did ride 200 miles without oil there will be serious damage and you are taking a great risk riding it further. It will not of escaped unscathed.

Try pressing the cap firmly into the tank, then turning the key. Otherwise, insert the tube of your favorite spray lubricant into the key slot and "fill 'er up." Work the key back and forth gradually increasing force. Perhaps even let it sit overnight and repeat . . . Good luck with the "new-to-you" Le Mans! You're in the right place to get it sorted!

Although I (still) don't know how to use this, I'll throw it into the ring. We have it at work, and the colleague that uses it most seems to like it. Another colleague, only been there 2 years or so, did a Masters in Documentary Film Production. I gather she learned to use it whilst at Uni, so it's not just us using it. There is a free version, but I don't know what the difference between the free and the sold version is. Even so, the sold version apparently only costs about $300,-. Have a look at it. Maybe it is a solution. https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve The blurb: One thing: the computer needs a bit of power, or it will be really, really slow. PS: I gather that the software is cheap because Davinci earns its money on cameras and such, and things like specialised controllers for the program. They want people using the software to keep them in the "ecosystem", so it is fairly cheap for the small-time user.

There is a certain portion of society that is automatically WRONG or responsible . You & I are in that group.

I have INNOV front and rear camera set on my 'Sport. I did not have time to install cameras on my BMW prior to last summer's trip, but I had a helmet cam facing forward and missed the integrated system every day. I intend to have at the very least a single 360* camera mounted before the next big ride, probably the GTT. I have cameras in all of my cars now, as well. Unfortunate lesson learned; 2 years ago I got hydroplaned into and wrecked my beautiful '94 Chevy pickup. I had F&R cameras in that one as well, but the system wasn't known to me- and was a complete Chinese POS even though wonderful and expensive, because it filed recordings to the card every 30 seconds, and the G-shock system couldn't lock the file until it was written; because I turned the key off before the file was written, the *ONLY FILE* i needed in 2 years of recording was not saved, and I had no evidence. So I went to YouTube, viewed hundreds of crash videos, and bought Rexing brand for all my cars since they seem to have the most videos that actually made it to YT so their system is proven. They also have a tiny supercapacitor to keep the system alive if your battery disconnects or fails. The innov system on the Guzzi, iirc, writes the files to the card as it records. Oh, and yes, the fine Haitian gentlemen who so kindly helped pick up the pieces lied to the Trooper, who wrote the report as if he never even spoke to me, and reported 'accident, no fault' so I couldn't get paid. My passenger was a WA State prosecuting attorney, member in good standing of the Bar, and the BS went deep enough because the Troop didn't want a racial incident that my insurance paid me what they could, chased the other side for recompense of their own accord but in the end the bastards got away with it. I trust NO part of the justice system... Kicking this soapbox away before somebody declares me Elon Musk

About 25 years ago Pete a mate of mine worked for the Australian Ducati importer and they had a SS in the workshop that on pre delivery wouldn't extinguish the LOP light. They pulled it down until they found that one of the crankcase galleries hadn't been drilled all the way through. They finished drilling it and replace the big end bearing which were actually fine but did it anyway and put it back together. That Ducati went all the way through post assembly testing and running and the engine on the Electric back drive rigs Ducati used in the day for 20 min before installing in a chassis with no oil pressure. The very same friend when he worked in Warranty for a large Japanese importer was also involved in an Australia wide recall along with a team from the factory in Japan for incompletely drilled oil galleries in the heads of one of their 250cc 4 stroke dirt bikes of the day. Un crate the bike, pull the head check for damage and replace with a new head if damage found or finish drilling the gallery and re assemble and re crate. The team went round Australia pulling new bikes apart for a month or so. I've got quite a few of these anecdotes after years of knowing people at importer level for several makes, lol. Broken drill bits on computerised machining stations is the usual reason. So your hypothesis may well be true or at least worth investigating at the time. Phil

This is the second or third time I’ve heard of camchain/tensioner related failures on an MGX 21. First one I heard about belonged to the bloke who runs Wildguzzi. It I believe actually snapped a camchain somehow trashing one side of the motor. It was rebuilt and from memory did something very similar again shortly after. The story really frustrated me because ALL of the second generation Hi-Cam motors are essentiallt identical as far as the bits that spin and go up and down are concerned. The cooling system is plumbed very differently in the small port 1400 motors but the lubrication system, which includes both the cam chain tensioner feeds, the under piston cooling sprays and the cam, tappet and cam bearing feeds is all identical to the 1200’s and the MGS is the same, identical, to the other 1400’s which are all much of a muchness. Once the flat tappet fiasco was sorted out the motor was pretty much bulletproof. I’ve seen a few dropped valves but that is usually due to the valve timing being incorrect after rollerisation or lack of oil changes but other than that most problems are oil leaks and oil pressure and phase sensor failures. What made these MGX’s fail really frustrates me because nobody seemed willing to dig into it! Shops just seemed to shrug and either replace the motor or just push the bike into a corner and forget about it. Something like that would have driven me batty! Fixing it is the least of the problem if you don’t know why it failed in the first place! There is no point in just rebuilding something after it has blown up like that unless you work out why because, oddly enough, if you don’t, the chances are it will just do it again! I’d have had at it like a dog at a bone but alas I never had the chance. My best guess, and it really is a guess, is that there is some fault in the machining of the oil galleries in the crankcase in the rear wall of the timing chest. Unlike earlier motors the front main is a pressed in steel sleeve with a tri metal coating, it’s not designed to be replaced. I’m sure this system was adopted for cheapness of manufacture but the upshot is that oil delivery around that bearing to supply both it and the under piston sprays, the cam chain tensioner feeds and the front cam bearings and rocker/cambox feeds is done through a fairly complex system of drillings and machinings in the crankcase itself. The ‘Guess’ I’m making is that somehow or by something that main delivery gallery is somehow blocked or partially occluded preventing the tensioner plunger from priming properly and maybe starving the front cam bearing of oil and causing a potential cam seizure in the cambox. Sadly I’ll never get the chance to follow up on this hypothesis and nobody else is likely to want to so it will, no doubt, remain as one of those eternal mysteries that blacken the company’s name from time to time. As it is I was never a fan of the ‘Small Port’ motor anyway. Too smooth and it seemed to have moved away from the bare bones ‘Engineering Purity’ I see in the Big Port 1200’s. That’s just my own bias though. That and the fact I think the 1400’s are huge, under suspended, overweight, tubs of shite of course!

#5 Is applicable in several countries. #9 is applicable in several countries #11 is unfortunately very true, and thank god for Aussie GPs to tell the kids early about them. Worse, they get bailed out with our money on top of all their scaming derivatives! #13 I did not know that Australia was so close to the Royals. I was under the impression they could not care less... #18 This one is applicable everywhere in the world nowadays. It used to only be applicable to developping countries. #22 Absolutely true everywhere, but the real truth is, most of the stuff which is so-called made at home, is actually "assembled" at home. My car is a Ford, but it was assembled in Spain. #40 Ditto... have you followed the story about the Submarines order? a very good example...

Which one of our members posted this fun Aussie bit . . . And don't get me started on @guzzler's short-cut thru Nayook to Noojie !

Fella in our small riding group picked up an MGX a couple years ago after a protracted search for a clean low mileage unit Cam chain tensioner failed,lunched the motor ,close to home thankfully Last I heard sitting under a cover in the back of his garage