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Nope, neither. I have a sterile 1970 Honda 750 basket case chopper that I want to return to stock for the most part, a 1987 MG SP2 with 157,000 miles on it, and 1999 Suzuki Bandit 1200 with 38000 miles on it that just works and is my shop and chore bike and a 1981 Yamaha SR500 thats for sale and a 1973 MG V7 sport. I'm currently looking at a Honda Hawk GT650 as I want a lighter bike that has a electric start because after getting hit at 45 mph on my 2002 Lemans by a 84 year old man in a SUV... I limp and have a bit of trouble with my hip and kickstarting.... I'm busy trying to keep my head above water and its a chore.. gladly accepted chore for sure but never the less a chore for each bike done lovingly. Its what I like to do and when posting on here I'm really just hoping for a magic answer that solves the issue but when you get hit with tons of places to look it can be just as over whelming as the issue itself . My original post on here was about fuel injectors and having gone down that rabbit hole with thoughts and other places to look I realize that there is a ton to know. I had a 2008 MG 1200 sport that had the magic box from Guzzitech and it made the bike run rich as hell but it work well for the most part. The guy that runs that is pretty hard to talk with and so your on you own when figuring things out. I got that bike running well after doing all the things suggested which is what I will have to do with this one. Its hard to be a hobby mechanic and keep up on all the nuances of each bike, but life is short and I will ride as many as I can before I go... Sorted out a Ducati Monster S2r 1000 and rode it for a bit and then sold it to buy this bike which sat for most of its life... So I'm stoked that it is running and fine tuning will take a bit, but it sure felt good to ride it. So I choose neither pill and as far as a meaningless life goes.. 2 wheels are 2 wheels and when your riding it feels great no matter what you ride... I have a vintage bike group and I have had probably 100 bikes in the last 10 years from Hondas to Ducati's to moto guzzis and two stokes and stopped short of buying Nortons and Velocette as it was above my wheelhouse in cost and mechanicing ... Its all for fun and if life is meaningless on a bike your doing it wrong... PS, the bike I was talking about was done by Mike Velasco who was a factory AMA race mechanic for 35 years and it was a Kawasaki ZX12r and it was anything but meaningless when hitting triple digits. It had 185 hp and 105 foot pounds of torque... it was scary fast...but damn it was fun for the 2 years I had it... Cheers my friend

Ah. Thanks. I should hook a fan up to them and place it over the fuses. ;-) Out on my first ride since the breakdown. Just ten or so miles to a cafe in Ramsey (Isle of Man). Put my finger on that 30A fuse upon arrival. Felt quite warm. Could be my paranoia.

These are seen on the early Sport wiring diagram as #44: "Warning light connectors" and came to the U.S.A. with nothing connected to them. Perhaps the Euro bikes got the "heated gourd." Apparently the Genuine Article came with a Warning Light. As it well should !

That is not a ‘Temp Gun’ it is obviously some sort of weak American version of the cover of a ‘Mutton Gun’. It is very much smaller than its Australian counterpart. It also bares no resemblance to a Penis Gourd. If you think it does there are a number of tribes in the highlands of Papua New Guinea and the depths of the Amazon rain forest who would like to ‘Have a Chat’! With the PNG crew that might also involve a meal. One at which you might be the main course!

It was a way to put it on and go. I live a long way away from others and getting into a whole new computer program and set my bike up sounds great but this was the path of least resistance. Sometimes you get lucky and shit works... and I have had great success with them before. If it doesn't work, then I will give Guzzidiag a shot...so there you go we shall see. My next step is to put it back to stock and see if that will change anything.

You, and your horse.

Like Pete said they were originally for a penis heater. A 2002 long frame won't have them because as we all know long frames are a girls bike. Phil

Or as mentioned Many times, a small unseen build with a direct regulator. 30amp fuse on holiday. Worth it if it’s a keeper. Cheers Tom.

Almost a press fit. Need to clean off the cover and stick it in. One more proto and I think I'll have something.

Let's talk tomorrow at C&C

Managed to source an original example. It's a snug fit but keeps things toasty.

Unfortunately , getting this bike in PERFECT condition is demanding and you have to follow every step to perfection to achieve any type of happyness .

I wouldn’t trust my life to it.

Pretty sure that I will go to a base setting with just the ecu and pipes, but I know the injector was not functioning as it should because starting the bike and getting it to clear out and run caused the exhaust to glow red. We tapped the injector and it settled right in and the pipes were both at 345 degrees and it idled really well. I can't speak for the past of the bike but and they didn't put many miles on it when the rode it towards the end of their ownership and it sat, the gas was not good in the tank and he rode it that way. I pulled the tank and dumped it and put a new filter in the tank. Seems that all perimeters including TPS, throttle body balancing, valves, fuel, plugs, new gas, new air cleaner are done correctly. I was going to disconnect the PC and see if the 2-3 grand stumble went away. My friend that did the work suggested that I run the fuel injection cleaner first for the injector and then richen up the lower part of the PC and see if that did anything. If not I will then pull the PC and go back to stock....

Both Davey and Mike said if it was theirs, they would not replace it. But yes, how did it look before? The one that I purchased will help for the evaluation.

Fair enough...although German precision is known for being precise...so that's good to know we have a + or - of a couple of millivolts to play with. It is truly a pain to get it on the nose when tightening up. Valves adjusted properly...that could drive some chuffing or mixed performance perhaps. When you say it runs badly, it's missing or coughing?

That is the first thing I would do. Someone else has been buggerising around with it, and you have no way of knowing if it all makes sense. The best thing to do is go back to the base-line, and make your own decisions from there. Also, please read what @pete roper recently wrote on the subject. I reckon it might be relevant for you too. PS: I didn't see you mention the motor position sensor. I have very reliable advise that it only a matter of time before they fail. My V11 Le Mans runs very badly between 2 and 3,000 r.p.m, and that sensor is what I'll be looking at next. No idea if that is logical, but I'm pretty sure the issue has nothing to do with the fuelling, but rather with the spark management somehow.

Ah, that is a relief. I thought I might have been missing something. I was in my garage this afternoon, and looked for those connectors. My 2002 Le Mans doesn't have them.

google "heated pxnxs gourd" and your search engine parameters could be permanently altered . . .

You can always Google and see if there are any floating around or call Harper's or MG Cycle . I'm sure they could hook you up .

The reason Guzzitech’s boss rants about The Guzzidiag suite of tools is because using them cuts into his profiteering from selling unnecessary, obsolete shit that he doesn’t even understand and often doesn’t work. Using Guzzidiag and the ‘Reader’ and ‘Writer’ programs CANNOT brick or otherwise damage your ECU. Using a correctly constructed aftermarket map allows you to achieve far more, far better, than using a shitty add-on like a Power Commander or the like. Quite simply it is my belief that your problems could likely be fixed by simply tuning your bike correctly. Start at the beginning with valve lash then go through with throttlebody balance and TPS adjust and it’ll probably be golden. Don’t be tempted by stupid crap like aftermarket air filters and ‘Sensor foolers’. Just tune it correctly first. If it’s still giving issues they will be a lot easier to identify rather than just going for the ‘Scattergun’ approach to diagnosis.

Thanks Marty, You've convinced me....to put Seafoam in the tank & call it a day. I'll still enjoy reading about you & Scud opening up, repairing & rebuilding engines & stuff