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Michael has a very pretty Tenni in at the moment. I think it actually belongs to a member here, not sure though. Anyway it came to have a RAM clutch installed among other things. I can’t remember how far it’s travelled, certainly not very far but have a squizz at the flywheel! The first pic is just to show off Michael’s spiffy new crane! Makes working on things like this a doddle! This is the flywheel! As you can see it’s a real doozy of a crack! Tick-Tock Motherf*cker! Oh, and Michael used the board for advice on how to yank the engine out of the front. I’ve never done it that way so couldn’t advise so thanks for that V11 people

The most intelligent person i ever met said 95% of all electrical problems will be w/in 6" of an electrical connection . Look there first before you go looking for your "purloined letter".

Nice proportions on that car docc. I do actually like the look of a lot of rag tops just not the practicality of them. I saw a Nissan 350Z rag top today and I like the silhouette of it as well. I'd just never drive it with the roof down. Anyway back in the heyday of open top sports cars real men never used a rag roof, same as they never opened the door, perish the thought. A tourney cover with a driver cut out maybe but a rag roof was for BGB's.

Oh, and it’s got a host of other issues. Forks need rebuilding, split and leaking hoses. Rear mainseal is popped, leaking Welch plug, it’s getting one of Chuck’s shift springs, a service etc. and of course Michael is loosing his shit because it’s peppered with incorrect and missing fosters and things so his OCD has gone into overdrive!

No need to get one made up you just use a genuine RAM clutch. They don't crack. The issue is and the reason I asked Pete the question I did was that I suspect the reason the single platers crack is because the big steel plate that the bolts go through and clamps on the face of the flywheel has a sharp edge to it around it's circumference and thats what initiates the cracking from a stress riser it creates. When I installed mine I bevelled that edge so it didn't bit into the flywheel face when the bolts were torqued up. Possible not a case of poor flywheel material.

This was from Montaigne... I found the citation; I did not remember it properly:

Given the ... marginal ... state of ground circuitry from Italy, it's entirely possible that you have a wire rubbed through on the framework, with a slight touch introducing voltage into a poor ground, neutralizing the ground path to your tach (and other stuff maybe) You can do some testing by comparing voltages- across battery + to ground, battery - to ground, and ground-to-ground across different points. It's not a guarantee that you'll see a differential, but if you do it's a certainty that something needs to be addressed.

Doing a bit of reading in the single plate clutch thread I’m assuming this is ‘TenniTragic’s bike? It’s very pretty, but Michael and I would be interested to know who worked on it before……… There are some tell tales that are setting my Spidey Senses tingling……

I think he is right. It's way better to throw out relays every 4 years than to have th bike stop on the side of the road.

Bummer. Like I said the devil is in the details. Phil

The Centy plates wont fit Mick the gearbox is a 5 speed. Phil

Whelp, back in town for a few weeks... The Oberon clutch slave arrived, and it's a no-go. The bore is 2mm wider, and the piston is completely different. A question not clearly answered is, 'why was this transmission taken out anyway?' It appears that someone had tried to remove the clutch slave, and the case finish around it is destroyed- so either it's been bled a lot of times or it was leaking badly, or both. Two screws came easily, the third had evidence of failure and did not come easily, though with proper tools and technique it came out without horns or heat. So I'll assume the poor bike fell to ruin over a clutch slave cylinder and some misunderstanding.

It is slightly weird to read that. Matches me perfectly on all counts, except that I am not in Australia, so it can't be me.

I would translate that into German slightly differently. "Verstecken" is the verb "to hide", so it is not wrong as such. It is just the implication. The verb "verdecken" means "to cover", and hits it better, I reckon. "Zeigen" means "to show", "Vorzeigen" also means "to show", but one of the nuances is "to exhibit". "Gewisse Dinge verdeckt man, um sie vorzuzeigen". DeepL.com gives that back as "You cover up certain things to show them off". @p6x How does that match up with the original? PS: I know that most people aren't all that interested in that sort of question, but I find it fascinating how translating back and forth can completely change the meaning of something, even though each translation is technically correct.

For the archive:

The piece itself is fairly simple to make, but as with all things the discovery of appropriate materials and dimensions takes time, and research time pays the same as machine time. I haven't seen a full picture of an alum flywheel but I'll assume the ring gear is steel and shrunk on; back in @Chuck's day it was common enough to install new ring gears when they wore out. So you wouldn't have to cut or source a new one, just calculate interference so it don't bust or fly off.

Good point I guess just unscrew it and blow into it to check the functioning?

Dunno, maybe not yet and I’m not going to waste time die testing it. It’s buggered. That’s all I need to know.

Sure, it's possible. You wouldn't want to pay for it, though.

Is it cracked right through Pete on the front face where the big steel washer that sits under the bolt heads is?

That flywheel looks similar to mine, albeit in a more advanced state of disintegration. I put in the twin plate clutch, but have thought before that the flywheel is a fairly simple design and shape, and that another alternative repair might be to have the alloy flywheel remade in steel. You'd then have to have the original clutch plate relined. I've got no experience of his kind of fabrication. Would that be possible?

Just pulled and discarded the two CIT I have been "testing" since October 2021 . . .

Has anyone mentioned this one yet? https://www.zhejianghke.com/hke-4133-12v-24vdc-1-form-a-and-c-contact-miniature-heavy-duty-general-purpose-automotive-relay/ It was recommended in a German language forum by someone who's advice I value highly. The person that made the recommendation considers the relays to be "Verschleißteile", i.e. consumables, parts subject to wear and tear. He changes his relays at the latest every four years on principle. He named this source, and at the price of €2.99 each, changing them every few years shouldn't hurt too much. https://www.voelkner.de/products/850370/HKE-4133-S-DC12V-C-R-Kfz-Relais-12-V-DC-35A-1-Wechsler.html?offer=93e6ea03ad7817bcc6bd3238ad7488c3 PS: I searched the part number and got a good number of hits. I have the impression that the relays are readily available. PPS: going by the drawings in the site behind the first link, they are 22mm high. From memory, that is at the lower end of the range, and should fit in under the seat quite well.

Image shows wire grooming, @sp838's 3D printed medallion, as well as zip-tie fluid and very special Cable® GuzziStuff toolbox . . .

The noise is supposed to be there . Enjoy it . You do want the clearance to be loose #s.

I ask because I have rebuilt my clutch master cylinder. Twice. The spring inside can fracture, sometimes into multiple parts . . .

The external shift mechanism and "connector rod" should be seen to. Make sure the foot lever is not striking the lower extension of the Frame Side Plate. That would give a "dead feel" trying to get into first. Once, I did fail to seat one of the cir-clips on one of the two shafts for the toothed gears of the shift plate. Yet, the outcome was that the Neutral Light would not extinguish, rather than difficulty getting into first. Again, this is most likely when the foot lever hits the Frame Side Plate on the downstroke into first gear.

Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale

@nielsv11 I apologize, my initial reply was not complete. I did not realize I was missing the link to my particular issue. There is an o'ring between the pinion carrier, to prevent the oil from leaking out. The drive on my Quota maybe different, but the sealing principle remains the same. I had a similar problem; it is more frequent than you think...