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I finally got this out with a small set of pliers. Everything seems ok. Some light scoring on the rod and dis-coloration on the clutch end. Gear oil. Nothing catastrophic.

Last week I rode Carson Pass (think Kit Carson) and Sonora Pass (the second-highest in CA at 9,624 feet elevation). All the passes over the Sierra Nevada between Mammoth Lakes and Lake Tahoe are close to 100 miles each, with hardly any stop signs or cross traffic. Here is an interesting sign at the Westbound entrance of Sonora Pass from Hwy 395. Steep 26%... that seems redundant... but I can attest that there are some steep sections. In fact, I'm not sure I have ever seen a sign with a higher percent grade. Wouldn't you like to hear your V11 at about 5,000 RPM working hard on a grade that steep? Accelerating up something like that would make you happy you installed a Roper Sloppage Tray.

Injectors out, to Injectorrx.com

Ah, okay, I reckon this is it. I can see that if it is seized in its bore, then "no clutch" action. Perhaps you could give it a "rap" to free it up? Unless that just drives it deeper into the bore . . .

I put LED bulbs in my '85 LeMans, tiny little devils- so lovely by day, but at night they're so bright as to be annoying. As I have this 2000 V11 Sport apart- the dash came disassembled too for some reason- I'll probably use LED for the temporary lamps (oil, turn, battery...is the battery warning bulb a ground on this bike?) and incandescent for the 'always on' lamps.

Well he has to top 'Rogered in the *** with a rusty star picket' to be the 'Baron of Bungendore'

IF you are doing any work to this clutch slave cylinder you do not use any petroleum products to clean , rebuild, parts washer or spray on/around this component. When you go back together with things you can use a brake assembly fluid but no petroleum products .

That started as a '57 GMC 6500, Texaco fuel tanker. Someone in California thought it would be a nice pickup, shortened the frame, found a bed (how rare is a age-appropriate long bed stepside?) installed a 5.9 Cummins, '90 vintage. Gear Vendors overdrive, late model heavy duty 4x4 running gear- heavy like 550 stuff, haven't researched but D60 front axle so probably GM. Kid saw it on eBay and got a boner for it. He bought an Airstream he's gonna haul out to Utah for a summer...one of these summers lol

I just did a nice 320km day trip in Friesland!

Quite off topic, but I do rather like the workbench behind the bike in that picture.

A data point... For the past several thousand miles, after an exhaust/PC3, I haven't had much 2700-3100rpm problems, until yesterday. 1. Bike came out of shop (for something unrelated), where they noticed the hose stubs for the throttle body vacuum weren't plugged, so they plugged them each with a ball bearing. 2. Costco (great premium gas) line was long, so I bought gas (premium) at Indian reservation on ride. 3. Shortly (5 miles) after getting gas, stopped at store about 10 minutes, for a water. About a mile after that, my V11 Lemans sputtered, backfired, popped, stalled on a moderate hill. So, one of the three above was the trigger. Or none, or all.

Your plan is to remove the gearbox? In this state, the gearox would just come off without any worries about the pushrod. The actual clutch assembly remains inside the flywheel "basket" attached to the back of the motor (crankshaft). It will likely help to loosen the front subframe bolts to the motor and lift the rear of the frame a bit ("crabbing the spineframe") . . .

I think it must be. As far as I understand the wiring diagram, one side of the lamp sees 12V together with a couple of other warning lamps, and the other side sees a connector on the regulator. It won't be getting 12V from both sides, so the connector on the regulator must be a switch to ground.

Great idea. I have never seen those before.

How much sticks out? How about spark plug boot pliers, or similar? https://www.magnetics.com/products/spark-plug-boot-pliers

Thanks Pete. I did try a shop magnet for retrieving lost nuts and bolts, but it's not enough to free it. If you have had success with magnets, I will try a another couple of magnets I have from the kitchen and see how that goes.

Yup, otherwise known as the outer thrust body. You should be able to extract it and the bearing and inner body, with a magnet on a stick.

And I heard a familiar crispy motor . Cheers Tom.

Aaand since this is currently taking up space in my yard while my son figures out where to keep it, -

I like the oil warning lamp to be as high as possible. The lights on the early V11Sports are not bright at all, so in case of a oil warning, you could easily miss it. These lights are only on for a short while so I do not fear the overheating of the fileament. (Except for high beam) Edit: So 2,2 watts would not be a problem. By the way, you can order those light per 10 for a much better price.

The V11 Owner's manual shows pilot lights were originally 1.2W. The lamps in the back of the Speedo/Tacho are 2.2W. @Kiwi_Roy wrote in some posts about LED substitutes for those incandescent lamps. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20578-problems-with-dash-lights/#findComment-235855 Note that the "low fuel" light must be an incandescent lamp because the function relies on current draw. Note also that indicator warning lamp must not be an incandescent lamp if you want to fit LED flashers. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30710-signal-indicators/ LED turn signal conversion problem - Page 3 - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum

How extraordinary our forum, and very specifically @audiomick came through on this matter!