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My thought was, if someone came to my house with $5,000 cash money, I’d take it, even though, with almost being a new (used) bike, it could potentially be worth closer to the $6K-$7K range, because you just won’t find one of that vintage with that low of miles. There may be rarer V11s out there, but the mileage alone gives it a rarity of its own. He always kept it running, even though he wasn’t able to ride it much. Always had fresh, stabilized gas, and he’d take it around the block, when he was physically able. I did siphon the ‘old’ gas out of it, and put fresh non-oxy in it, but it was completely unnecessary. The gas that was in it had the tell-tale pink tinge of ‘Stabil’, and smelled as fresh as the day it came out of the pump.

So, based on the comments so far, it seems like the range is likely closer to $6k, not likely more. I did, in my haste, forget that the Ballabio did not have the Ohlins (black forks, doh!). But, not likely going to find many more 500 mile V11s out there.

Despite it's excellent condition, the Ballabio did not emerge as one of the most desirable V11 variants. The Ohlins-equipped version of this bike, the Cafe Sport, would seem more likely to fetch that price. Just my opinion.

Wow, what a nice Ballabio. Sorry about the circumstances. I suppose that you keeping the bike has already been ruled out? There is at least one member here with an affinity for pristine, low-mileage bikes. @Twin AH

Their standard exceeds that of the manufacturer.

Thank you! I think I can add oil pan gasket to my list as well.

If it matters, in 2019 I bought a 2004 Ballabio with 4800 miles for $4950. Came with Staintunes, Hepco & Becker bags, Motobits pegs, Roper plate and other goodies.

I'm rehabilitating a 2000 V11 Sport I got for $750- to make it look that nice and recover the 64k miles it has on it, would cost as much as you're asking. Maybe more depending on the price of paint.

So, bearing race came off, with a little learning curve on the new inductive heater- it comes with an insulating wrap specifically for bearing races. It doesn't say why, other than that the coil used for races isn't preformed and I assume it is so you can use it on any size, and the insulator keeps the coil cover from burning. With 3 wraps and the insulator, I had to go back 4 times, the last time being for 25 seconds plus whatever heat was in it beforehand. Here's what it looks like apart, with everything in order of assembly (the compensator ramp and gear in the case simply slide apart as well) The bearing in question is on the right, trapped by everything between it and the end race on the left.

BTW if anyone has original Scura/Tenni clutch pressure plate or clutch disc, in good shape, hanging around from their single plate swap, I am a buyer. Please contact me.

Since it's right at hand, my 2000 v11 bodies are (actual) 44.68mm vertical and 44.71mm horizontal at the inlet.

Drama is over. I was going to perform the bench test above, I was cleaning up the parts, when it hit me that something was not right. One side of the clutch plate was "welded" to the clutch disc that bolts up to the ring gear side of the clutch. Not sure how I missed that, but that's all part of the DIY life. It welded due to the clutch dust and other moisture (s) in that general area. I am on the hunt for a thread where Docc outlined certain seals and plugs that are readily accessible with the engine and transmission out. If anyone knows off the top where that is, I would appreciate a link. Thanks to all for their help.

Perhaps if not interested, we could still give an educated idea of what the bike is worth? My opinion based on what i've seen the past couple years is this is a $6k - $7k (max) bike, due to the low mileage and assuming in excellent running condition. But everyone else please chime in.

I guess it is the standard MG V11 rack with all the mounting brackets and bolts. Good, not new condition. I'll have to post a pic. Waiting to see what @Jaide says.

There is also the problem of wear simply due to age and use. As the spindle bushes wear the plates will settle in the chokes carving out the edge of the TB and wearing the plate. This means that more air can move past the plate so the mixture goes lean. This is mainly an issue at idle and leads to spitting back through the inlet tracts and this exacerbates the problem and increases the wear. It’s something I’m very aware of because the big 50mm TB’s on the 8V’s are particularly susceptible to it and it’s a king sized PITA. The larger the choke the worse the problem becomes. I can’t remember what size the TB’s are on the V11’s but I seem to remember that they actually downsized them for the early 2 valve CARC bikes and they are not nearly as prone to showing unacceptable behaviour as they age compared to the 8V’s. If, as I suspect, the V11 TB’s have larger chokes then one would have to think that they would be more prone than the early CARC bikes to ‘Air Leakage’ but not as bad as the 8V items. If I’m correct in that it would perhaps explain part of the problem at least. At the end of the day if more fuel is required at a certain engine speed and throttle position by far the best way to achieve it would simply be to add more in those cells in the map rather than kludgeing it with the CO trim or buggering about with the TPS.

Do you mean when the clutch was working properly? If so, to the best I can recall, there was always a fair bit of free movement. It just started acting like a cable clutch going out of adjustment until there was no activation of the clutch. Most noticeable when you tried to come to a stop while in gear and the bike would keep chugging forward.

Sorry Mick. Yes those are the ones I ordered. My computer skills are lacking. I couldn't figure out how to get the direct link to copy. Glad you did, thanks! Brian

Hi there. New to the forum! Long story, but I’ll try to keep it short. My father passed away recently, and I am attempting to sell a 2004 Ballabio, for my mom. The reason I bring that up, is that is the reason it has such low miles. He was in poor health for many years, and just wasn’t able to ride it. My auction is going live on Bring a Trailer, 2:40 pm Central time US, today, and they kind of pushed me into ‘No Reserve’. But…I had just tried his 1953 Falcone on Bring a Trailer, and I wasn’t happy with the result. The high bid was only $7,100, and didn’t come close to my reserve. That being said, I’m getting nervous about this auction, that someone will get it for pennies on the dollar of what it’s worth, without having a reserve. Does anyone want to make me an offer, before this thing goes live? I have a number in mind. Once the auction goes live, I’ll pull this post down, because I guess I’m a good guy, and will follow their policy, and go through with the auction. It’s in pretty immaculate condition, save a few tiny rock chips, some fine scratches on the exhaust, and a small scratch on the front fender. It was kept in an unfinished, walkout basement. It’s located in MN.

I'm located in the Frozen Tundra (Minnesota) and I am very interested in checking these out. Where are they? Thanks in advance, Bruce

I wish I had a place to just let the Ballabio hibernate! My mom wants my dad’s stuff cleared out, and I’m pretty well maxed out with stuff at my house, until I get a polebarn built. I probably needed a polebarn over a decade ago, but instead, my 3 stall garage just slowly became a game of Tetris…a game I am quickly losing 🤣

That’s what I thought. Nominal 45mm on the V11. CARC 2-valve motors use 40’s from memory and the 1200’s use 50’s. When they went to the 1400 they went single 54mm body with ride by wire control. Mark, (Beetle.) has converted his Griso which runs a big port single spark version of the motor that we built for him to a single mechanical TB, I think it’s a 60mm? Not absolutely sure. Had to go to higher flow injectors too as boy does it like the dinosaur juice!

I appreciate it! Yeah, I did include a cold start video on BaT. Starts nicely. The only thing I was questioning with it, mechanically, is it has a little clutch noise when the clutch is disengaged/ lever pulled in. But, I read on here, in fact, that it’s very typical of this dry clutch setup, and it’s nothing to worry about, unless you hear loud grinding or whining noises, which, I don’t. I read that they all make some noise, and it’s just the nature of the beast with these machines.

IF I were a potential BAT buyer, I would find a cold start/ running video essential viewing

In addition to the rear main, there are two gaskets, the cam "bung", and the two bolts at the bottom of the main carrier that need sealing. Then two on the gearbox and one that I am forgetting....

Ha, that would be nice! BaT takes the information you give them, and writes the listing for you. While they claim it’s so they can cut through the fluff and BS, so buyers have an accurate representation, I think they are too aggressive with their language. For example, I had told them my dad’s Falcone has an occasional oil drip, maybe a few tablespoons per month. They translated that into my listing as “engine leaks oil”. While they were, technically, not wrong, if I were a potential buyer and read, “engine leaks oil”, I’d be thinking if I ride this thing a mile from home, I could very well lock up the engine! Where as, the reality is, it would be almost impossible to find a Falcone that doesn’t have an occasional oil drip, unless a guy has torn the thing to pieces, and black RTVed the living daylights out of it! It’s almost as though BaT punishes a guy for being honest about it.

It always helps if you load on the hyperbole in your ad. "Amazing" "Fantastic" "Time Capsule" etc. etc. etc.

Harpermoto.com has everything, at least they had everything I needed sealwise from rear main to output shaft, within the week. https://harpermoto.com/collections/2002-v-11-le-mans-1100-transmission-cage

I had definitely considered keeping it, but I have a bad back, and, though it’s not an overly aggressive riding position, it’s still too aggressive for my back. I rode it a few miles, trying to fall in love with it, and if my back could handle it, I’d absolutely keep it!

IDK about the hydraulic clutch system on this bike BUT on cars , trucks , etc. , they are all constant contact , i.e. no free travel. Maybe this is affecting the clutch operation ?

Thanks Docc, Peter and Phil for your advice. Will do more checking to try corner the issue. The air filter is new, but fuel filter is not. I just happen to have a new one on the shelf so I will ride out the full tank of fuel in next couple days, pull the tank off and change it, see if any change by setting TPS back to 157 mv and trying it. The TB shafts do not feel like they have any play ( bike has just approx 26,000 kms on it). I use short bolts with copper washers to close off vacuum nipples holes when not in use.

I think they are 40mm Pete from memory. The MGS-01s were 45 I think. Add the throttle shaft bush wear as well. When I got the Daytona engine running I thought I had valve tapping noise on the r/h cylinder at idle until I touched the butterfly shaft on the r/h TB and it stopped taping in time with the intake pulses. This led to rebuilding the TB's Phil

I have already replaced the slave with a new one from Denmark. No change. So to recap. Rebuilt the master, no change. Installed a new slave, no change. Rigged the slave with washers, no change. Pulled the engine and the tranny and no visible damage. Not sure where to go from here. It could be that the pressure plate is out of spec. but I have no way to check that. I could buy a new clutch, but I have an aversion to being a parts cannon, until I figure out what is wrong.

Worth rebuilding the master cylinder. Kits are available . . .

Does your hand lever have a lot of "travel" before engagement?

Okay, nice! The early V11 Sport side cover emblems with the Tri-Colore and the checkerboard . . . https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/lmAAAOxyqKVRhIZ1/s-l1600.webp

Maybe I was a little hasty. It's little tricky to get the outer thrust body set properly. Once it is, it will move in and out about a big 1/8th of an inch. When it goes in to the maximum, meaning flush with the inner transmission face, there is a bit of a "pop". If you move it back with the pushrod it travels with a little resistance about 1/8 or so. This is what I was noticing when I was actuating the clutch lever, the plunger in the slave would travel about 1/8". To answer your question, as I stated previously, I stacked a couple of big washers inside the old slave and reinstalled the plunger. So the plunger was fixed about 3/16" proud of the slave face. I reinstalled this arrangement with the screws which is essentially a bypass of the hydraulic system. After bolting in place, I still could not turn the drive shaft. So, I had ruled out hydraulics.

These ones, maybe? https://www.ebay.com/itm/200735527568?_skw=v11+moto+guzzi&itmmeta=01JXKB0WGJ5M5Z36VB4VZ1JZPQ&hash=item2ebcc51290:g:lmAAAOxyqKVRhIZ1

You'd be better off just adjusting the CO as a quick and dirty way to control the popping rather than the Tps sensor. The CO setting affects the whole range but is most effective at the bottom. Phil

DHL freight isn't bad to EU...but whatcha got?

So, the scrutiny falls back on the (Grimeca) slave cylinder? For certain, the Brembo "master cylinder", at the actuation hand lever, has been ruled out?

Look at you! The rod by itself moves freely. When you put the outer thrust body and the related washers, it wants to bind, if I move it around, it moves, not great, and it seems to want to lock up rather than continue to move free.

If anyone is still interested in these, I found what I think are the same here. https://www.ebay.com/str/copionesrl I'm not sure they are the same, but look so. I have ordered two and will report back when they arrive. Brian

I've got the real deal. PM me.

I agree with Phil. But another option, a third option, is to connect the two nipples with a proper size hose. Some people seem to think that connecting them with a hose helps. I don't think that is true. But for sure connecting the two nipples stops the air leak that would occur if the nipples were open. Side note, an easy test would be to open the nipples back up and see if it runs better that way. Clearly it should not run better like that, but you never know. And since blocking them off is one of the three things that changed when it started running less well, putting it back would be an easy way to eliminate that as the source of your running issues.

I'll guess that you're correct, since removing the clutch and flywheel doesn't input meaningful impacts to the alternator and the alternator can be plenty tight enough to turn the engine. In the one time I had to work with the alternator with engine benched ('85 LeMans) I just stuffed some synthetic rope down the spark plug hole to prevent rotation. Now I have the flywheel holding tool, so...

Does anyone know why the MG suggested procedure is to take the alternator off before removing the clutch? I am assuming that it relates to a complete motor tear-down and you need to block the starter ring gear in order to get the alternator off and once you remove that ring gear, then its not happening. As I have no plans to remove the alternator, then I am going to skip that step. I would be interested to know if I am missing something.

Eeee.... I was stuck for 2 days in a car with only FM radio when this song was on heavy rotation...still cringe a bit.