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Nice Texas Spine Raid rendezvous and enjoyable lunch at one of our favorite local cafes and not coincidentally also a stop on the Tour of Texas. Great to have you here Eric and Pascal thanks for coming up as well!

@PJPR01, @p6x, @Pressureangle

I also like the original anodized red on the Tenni, same as on the Scura and I think all the variations from 2002 onwards that had "red stillettos." I'm not sure if anyone has figured how to duplicate that finish.

@Goofman speaks about this stickering business as if there is plausible deniability . . . Happily, the matter met the approval of the cheerful Sp'Honda-Raider . . .

Good news. Just got an email from batterystuff.com with a UPS tracking # and the charger is scheduled for delivery this Friday. Not to derail my own thread on my charging issue, but it sounds like going forward I should stop using the Battery Tender and use your protocol quoted here, amirite?

Tired of frequently having to tighten the kickstand bolt, I decided to replace it. To do this, I had to remove the left-hand exhaust to make enough space to take out the Allen bolt and replace it with a hex head. It was also the perfect opportunity to remove VroomHilda's skirts, which I had been wanting to do for a while. Not only does this allow me to showcase the engine, but it also gives me easier access to the oil dipstick and several other components, all while streamlining her appearance. I love the new look and have been building up the courage to make this change for years. Remember: measure fifty-seven times and cut once!

Something like this?

@fastaussie I'm a little late to this game but a few ideas: 1) If you're swapping plates (I like "pork chops", but others either don't like that or prefer "stilettos"), be aware that there seem to be two different versions of the plates with different size swingarm pins (20 vs. 22mm, by my measurement). If you get new-to-you plates, either confirm the correct size for your setup or get the pins with the plates. See 2) I got a set of plates powder coated. They are beautiful, though not presently installed. I wanted to get a visual sense of depth in the finish, so the powder coater shot them with silver first, then cherry red, followed by clear. As pretty as they are, I don't like them as much as the original Tenni anodized chops, as I discovered that I like the comfortable patina of the originals. I also haven't put them back on Bubbles (the champagne Lemans), feeling that's a little like putting lipstick on a pig (Bubbles is cosmetically-challenged). So Bubbles is wearing a pair of darker silver stilettos of unknown provenience. 3) Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Personally, I like the "pop" of red chops and valve covers. If we agree that the stilettos and the valve covers are roughly equal in exposed-to-view surface area, then what you're proposing to do is essentially just moving the red spot around on the canvas; no new pop, just the same pop somewhere else. Seems like a lot of effort. But, hey: you do you, as my daughter says.

That's the best looking Tenni deal I've seen in recent memory. $6k / 11k mi. and looks well kept. The clutch swap shouldn't matter. If the owner isn't sure then it likely has not been addressed. Buy it - fix it.

Kapiti kiwi, Have a look at what Penrite has to offer. 100% shear free and full 100% PAO and Ester in 10W-40, 15W-50 and 20W-50. You can't go wrong here. Rob

docc , off the top of my head , these switches : oil press. neut. , etc. are n.c. (normally closed) switches. Wiring diagrams should display n.c. or n.o. next to the switch for clarity and understanding of the circuit. MG does things "their way".

last August actually. but i did just take that photo a few days ago...

Closure? In that case, congratulations, @fastaussie!

"Weird bollocks ", indeed! I have put mySport on the lift, removed the seat, pulled the regulator connector apart, probing with the DVOM, trying to fathom why @Sam P's Sport won't charge and how the strange warning light behavior might inform a solution . . .

A few words on this... Basically, I'm of the same opinion as @docc here. Regarding batteries: modern Lithium-ion batteries are much better at not getting a "memory", living with lower charge states and what-have-you. As a sound engineer, I've spent the last 40-odd years dealing with things that run on batteries. Experience shows that it is better to regularly make sure they get charged properly, then let them cycle for a while as the manufacurer intended, then make sure they get a good charge, then let them cycle, and so on. The lead-acid variants that we find in our motorcycles belong to the category that this applies to. Cheap trickle chargers don't do the business. Docc has the right approach: proper charger, let it cycle, proper charger. And now, back to the topic in question: why is your charging system doing weird bollocks?

My memory is unfortunately foggy one the chain of events, but I will try to reconstruct them here. After the first Odyssey showed signs of bubbling and bloating - with no alert from the charging lamp - I assumed to regulator was bad, and that the reg was overcharging the battery, hence the bloating. So I replaced the reg, along with my current "new" Odyssey battery. Next, I took the bike for a ride and the battery light lit up again, so I suspected the stator - sending too many AC volts to the regulator - which I then replaced. Installed the new stator, rode for 100 miles and the charging light never lit up. Like an idiot, I thought all my problems were solved, lol. The next ride, the lamp started to activate at 3-4K rpm, which is where we are now. (This was the title of this post, remember? Is the stator defective?' My memory is foggy on this, but I never recall the battery light OR the oil light EVER activating with key on, engine off.

The best methodology for putting Titanio canisters, grey Ballabio frame sideplates, and Rosso Mandello valve covers on your LeMans is to buy all those V11, rearrange the parts to your liking and keep them all. Seriously, let's ask the other inmates on the ward if that sounds crazy.

I felt poor pulling the Krauser Kluge up next to those Sophia Lorens!

Thanks for that, @Joe. There was a Karmann Ghia somewhere in there, which reminded me of this. I haven't ever seen it, just read about it on the Interweb. Sounds like fun, though. https://www.bader-racing.de/en/home/home_news.htm A quote from the site:

Blue wire to ground, I get 34.6Ω. edit: with the oil switch unplugged, I get open circuit "1" from blue wire to ground. Another indication your oil switch is faulty, but not a clue on the charging issue(s). Oil switch post to ground, I get 1.6Ω. This makes me think your oil pressure switch is faulty and the lack of oil light, KOEO, is not related to the charging issue(s).

Dang. So, the oil light is getting power, since it will light when the wire is grounded and the switch looks closed (no resistance from the switch post to ground), but no light . . . Did you completely remove the wire connector to the switch and test the resistance to ground with the switch post bare?

No it does not light up KOEO.

I found my switch post corroded, as well (in spite of my added rubber boot). Did your cleaning that connection allow the oil light to illuminate. now, KOEO?

More pics of it in its natural habitat!

Yes I did.

You're seeing the same reading there every time. It is 70 Ohm. It shows up as 70 in the 200 range (i.e. "up to 200") because that is the appropriate range. Appropriate because the actual value is in the same order of magnitude as the range. The 7 in the 2000 range is no doubt also 70 Ohm, but doesn't look like it because the decimal point is at a different place in the display. I was having trouble trying to explain this, so I measured a pair of headphones with the DMM in the workshop here. Set to the 200 range, I see 57.8 and off to the right in the display an Ω symbol. So the display can show 3 digits, and in that range it is showing Ohm. In the 2000 range, I see .058 and off to the right the symbol kΩ So in that range, the display is showing kiloohm to three decimal places, and the value is 58 thousendths of 1 kiloohm = 58 Ohm (rounded up from 57.8) And so it goes on, the device only has a couple of digits to work with, and moves the decimal point and the order of magnitude around to suit the range it is supposed to be measuring. The best way of measuring resistance, if you don't know what you are looking for, is to start at the big end (with the probes connected) and step down through the ranges until you get a sensible reading (a whole number of the unit rather than a couple of thousands of the unit a couple of orders of magnitude bigger). This method is even more important measuring volts: your DMM wont like being exposed to 12 V if it is set to read mV. If in doubt, start at the big end of the available ranges and step down until you get a sensible reading.

If you look at the original Moto Guzzi sales literature you will see that the valve covers on RM, Rosso Corsa, and Nero Corsa are a lighter shade of red (approaching orange) then the most common red on the frame plates. When I got my Nero, they had both been painted to match the Nero Corsa script on the tail. But I replaced them with a candy-apple red powder coat set, which is close to the original metallic red but give it a bit more depth and character. And to my eye, is a nicer fit with the Nero. Also note, the angle/lighting makes the parts look different colors, but they are the same (so is the alternator cover).

Sport-Norge!

2001 Rossa Mandello for sale. 4k miles. $6000. Long Island, NY. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1LH7VCqzmS/

The pipes look like Mistral reverse cone mufflers. I had them on a 02 Lemans..They have a kind of raspy sound. first question I’d be asking is “has the potentially exploding clutch been replaced?”

Tenni #108 for sale in Tucson, AZ. 11k miles. i'm unfamiliar with the pipes, but looks pretty clean with the exception of the terrible hack job on the rear tail light and fender. seems like an easy fix to get it back looking respectable. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/758961083627712 for those who don't have FB, let me know if you want to get in touch and i will message the guy for you...

i do believe you are right sir. i have not checked with Moto Guzzi to see if i can still order these parts, i am assuming no. but i shall check one of these days. i figured i would ask the question here first... i'll send you a PM @Scud. thanks for the offer, it is very much appreciated. and thanks again to all for the tips...

@Sam P, let's try to take the oil pressure light out of the equation. You reported the oil light illuminates when the connector to the switch is grounded. Connect your Ohm meter and measure resistance from the switch post to ground, key off. The switch should be closed/grounded with no oil pressure, resistance: near 0 [oil light on will come on KOEO]. If the switch is open with no oil pressure (engine off)/ resistance = > 1 < [no oil light KOEO], then the oil pressure switch has failed and has nothing to do with the odd behavior of the "battery/charging" light . . .

The derived protocol takes more attention and involvement, but improves the outcome. Is it worth it? I can say, with certainty, mySport's performance (and reliability) is significantly better with optimal charging and battery strength. YMMV

If I am reading this correctly, the odd charging light behavior started after the battery got cooked. And did not change with the new stator and regulator? Makes me think something also got cooked in the harness/connectors - seemingly in the circuit involving the instrument panel . . .

Exactly. Over time, that low float voltage (below Odyssey's 13.2 minimum threshold) will "shorten battery life". How much? Unknown. But undesirable. Your new charger is likely configured to address this. Rather than the "tender" approach, I have grown fond of charging the Odyssey with at least 6 amps up to 15.0 volts, then float charge at 13.56v (what my EnerSys charger will float) for maybe 24 hours, then terminate charge and let the battery gradually discharge. Repeat when the static charge reaches 12.65v. _____________________________________________________________________________________ > LESS voltage on trickle/float is NOT okay. Odyssey states that floating under 13.2 damages the battery: "Note, however, that the charge voltage should not be dropped below 13.2V as that will cause the battery grids to corrode faster, thereby shortening the battery life."

Just went out to the garage - the DMM reads 13.12v with the Battery Tender attached. Close but no cigar?

I've always noticed that the RM's valve covers turn a little more orange over time. Is it the heat that affects the paint, UV rays or both? I don’t think that happens with powder coating, but the sheen might be different.

I normally web search the part number. For example this turned up for GU01415880 https://cadrecycle.com/product/lh-rear-fork-plate-cafe-sport/ I'm not sure how many models had grey or how many different greys they made. Valve covers. I believe the color you want came standard on the NC and the RC. Also looks like RM but I can't be sure. That's potentially a few p/n's to look for.

I apologize if I was unclear in my reply. I was suggesting that the OP take the closeup picture of the valve cover in post #1 to a experienced powder coating shop to see how close they could match it. I was not suggesting he take the picture of my bike to do so. I live in a smallish town and there are two excellent shops that do this type of work close by. I don't know why you found this funny? Please explain.

It is sad to see what these bikes sell for. you try to sell and no one wants them even though you poured plenty into them. Not unlike a Mary Kay Cadillac.

at least everyone is being so helpful...

Fertilised by Merlin cocking his hind leg and pissing on it, no doubt.

Undoubtably the better option.

You should see what I do to myself. I buy bikes a breaker may not pay for and try to rehabilitate them.