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My son took these with his phone. We went to 6 flags my other son's treat

As hard as I try to learn the playing, sometimes it's more about the dancing . . .

Speaking with the seller in Florida. Guzzi 1947

I have a friend who is very interested. He and somebody else bidding for the first time will be going against somewhat of a BAT heavy hitter who likes motorcycle gems. This should be interesting.

Got to see it here in Indiana. Made my life problems seem insignificant for a few minutes...

I hear ya, and that was mostly where I stood up till a few years ago. but that old Shorai that I thought was at the end of its rope 4-5yrs ago (after it was older and abused/killed) and which i just again today at lunch used on the V11 to cycle the fuel pump a bunch more times, and again crank the engine, all over the last several days with no charging, and its still going strong and showing good voltage. none of my Odysseys would do all that for that long. crazy. They offer it, but on the AntiGravity website it appears the AG1201 does not have it, as they make that one with a smaller form factor in mind. Unless I read that wrong from their website page for the AG1201: Note: there is no BMS in the SMALL CASE Batteries, only Balance Charging. They are for closed course use only. Though I assume a different model from them could be used that would have it. I just ordered the EarthX, the larger one. It's more expensive, and maybe not worth the extra $60, but figured i'd err on the side of over-coddling the electrics on this machine.

Since s arm is of, you are talking about front part of shaft connected to the tranny ? Can you move,slide the shaft a bit on the splines, if, tighten the bolts. Shoud be NO play in the ujoint. Cheers Tom.

No way would I delete your posts. Reminds me of why Don Garlits built the rear engine dragster. edit: https://www.forbes.com/sites/jimclash/2023/03/16/how-big-daddys-1970-wreck-revolutionized-dragster-design-saving-countless-lives/?sh=168d33e25cc9

Perhaps, but it also highlights the danger of a disc spinning as fast as the flywheel is spinning. It isn't just a question of how much damage it can do to your Guzzi if your aluminum flywheel lets go, it can do damage to you. There is a reason why drag racers have to use SFI rated bell housings. Anyway, feel free to delete the post.

No argument here. And far be it from me to become an apostle for anything but the many Odysseys i have or have had. Just more or less parroting what you, others, and myself have all hit upon, which is that time has led to the evolution of the batt tech to the extent that now we seem to be mostly living with the reputation/issues of the past which may not be as applicable now. In the example noted on the posts just above, sounds like you’ve got an old odyssey thats still performing, and I also have averaged 7-9+ yrs on my odysseys, and even then they aren’t “dead”, so that has always kept me a loyal follower. I’m just adding in the data point(s) that this old shorai I’ve got is also in that age range, experienced a couple of the “too far gone” near-death experiences (voltage dropped to below the normally recoverable range due to issues on the KTM) early on, but not only is it not dead but its cranking the V11 longer and harder than any battery I’ve used…..All much to my surprise. I looked up the specs on it, and sure enough it indicates more CCA than the equivalent odyssey (no surprise, given the nature of the 2 different chemistry/techs), but i figured it would die fast given its age & abuse, and lack of amp-hr, which just didn’t happen. Weird, in a good way, and not really sure what to conclude from that. As another data point in line with the title of this thread, I did last year remove a cheap-O lithium battery from another of my (larger cc) bikes, one that I inherited from the previous owner of the bike. The brand… hmm…. I’ll think of it. I think it was 3 letters (AMG maybe?), and shows to be about half the price of the usual higher end lithium batteries. When i removed it, it was just shy of 7 yrs old. It got no special treatment, spent the winters on a 2a lithium specified tender (For better or worse?), and it did experience the bad trait of barely performing in cold winter conditions (barely cranked the bike when down around 0 degrees C). But other than that it performed fine. It just spooked me when I’d go to start the bike in cold conditions, and was getting old, so i replaced it. The new lithium battery i put in cranks the bike really well in the cold (EarthX)… so far very good, but it’s new.

that should say it all: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2004-moto-guzzi-coppa-italia-4/

Saw it in Marble Falls, TX. I saw the last one in Oregon in 2017 with my oldest daughter. My wife took my other daughter to PA for her first year college move in, so they both missed out. Flash forward to now. That same daughter is a grad student at UT Austin. My wife's birthday was the day of the eclipse. Visting my daughter in Austin and seeing the eclipse was her birthday present. It was a great trip!

Bumpity, bumpity. Project 701 awaits space in the garage! Will have the Scura at the Oregon Vintage Moto Show & Swap in May and the weather improves daily. PM me if you have any referrals or additional suggestions. Added to ADV Rider where I originally found her. Fat Amy, the Africa Twin is sensing I'm in selling mode and feeling a bit skittish. Sherco gone, Scura needs moved ...... Spring cleaning!

I have been sidetracked with other vehicular issues on other vehicles. I did order a fuel filter bag thingy and a gasket so when I take the tank off I could pull that off and check it and replace it. My intention is to replace several vacuum hoses and lines that are under the tank and in front of the seat area because I can see visible cracks. I haven't forgotten to respond I've just been a little busy. I will post what I know more

In discusssion on the bike. Many thanks for the lead.

There have long been concerns, and reports, of cracking or failures of the aluminum flywheel mated to the single plate clutch on the 2002 Scura, 2002 Tenni, and (perhaps) the 2001 Rosso Mandello. To clarify: it is not a clutch failure, but cracking of the flywheel around its mounting to the crankshaft potentially progressing to separation and extensive damage. Many have preemptively converted their "single plate clutch"/ aluminum flywheel to the V11 double plate/steel flywheel or installed an aftermarket RAM clutch/flywheel unit. Those solutions are detailed elsewhere and may be linked here. This topic is meant to chronicle reports of actual failures.

Discussion about flywheel failure concerns archived in this pinned topic: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/31018-aluminum-flywheel-failure/

That is pretty accurate. Less air gap means the compression curve of the air that is there is steeper, so it will have a higher spring rate quicker. Keep in mind that a fork is, for all intent, a sealed system. The oil doesn't compress, so all the compressing has to be done by the air above the oil. That means the air above the oil acts like an air spring. Less air above the oil means that compression curve of the air spring is steeper. More air above the oil means the compression curve of the air spring is more gradual. If the air gap is small enough it can make it impossible for the forks to compress all the way. Been there, done that. A little more oil / less air can make the forks stiffer, especially towards the end of their travel. Less oil / more air can make the forks softer, especially towards the end of their travel. The effect of different oil levels / air gaps will be most noticeable towards the end of the forks travel. It can be a useful tuning tool, either on the track or on the street. It is as important in my opinion as getting the right spring rate.

For full disclosure, this is what I was after with the increased air gap: my (limited) understanding is that less air compresses less and tends to increase compression at the end of the stroke effectively shortening the travel (a sort of "harshness" toward the depth of the fork travel). Increasing the air gap can contribute to a more linear damping through the travel range. This is likely way oversimplified, but gives the idea. I would add that it is the last parameter to address after correct springs and preload ("sags"/ride heights), oil selection, and damping settings.

I don't think the flywheel failure would be a gradual or predictable thing. How could you tell when the cracks shown in my photo would spread and the flywheel break apart? People are free to make their own guesses, but I would not take the risk. I took mine apart because the clutch was worn. I only noticed the cracks afterwards. The twin plate V11 sport clutch is a direct replacement. The new parts about 8 years ago were over £2500. I managed to find a second hand steel clutch assembly for a lot less, but it took some time. Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

New to me artist. Maybe visited the crossroads? adderall? definitely collagen. seriously tho, the man is connected.

@doccThanks, I will contact them. If anybody has answers, they do. Here is an interesting reply to a question posted up on an old GS thread. Some good info here. Hi, I have Wilbers (front/rear) on my R12GS since more than 30000km. I understand the basics so perhaps I can help out. The most important part on the number combination on your spring is the '150' indicating the spring rate. My Wilbers springs carry the same numbers, and I weigh 86kg, and the pillion weighs 70kg, and then there's the luggage. So you're allright as far as springrate goes. Springrate on these bikes is usually 140, 150, 160. Now some basic info. Imagine a bike hanging in the air. As it comes down and sits on it's springs, it goes down a bit called the 'static' sag. As a rider mounts the bike, it goes down even more : the 'dynamic' sag. The 'dynamic' sag is supposed to remain equal, no matter how much weight is put on the bike; that's why there's a preload knob for adjustment. The trouble is that it's not easy to find out what the basic dynamic sag is, i.e. when riding solo. That's where Wilbers are clever : in the factory they put the minimum preload according to weight of rider (as specified when ordered). This exact minimum preload means that the rider will have the correct dynamic sag when riding solo. From there on, he can adjust for more weight by increasing the preload.* What some people don't realise, is that this factory installed minimum preload can be altered on the spring, for more or less solo weight. Otherwise Wilbers would have to produce hundreds of different springs for different riders' weights. And as a nice advantage to us customers Wilbers springs/dampers can be sold on to a rider with a different weight. To be specific : you have bought a second hand Wilbers and can have the minimum preload changed so that it fits your weight (preferably by someone who knows how). But, since you are heavier than the specified weight you have this option : when riding solo you can simply adjust the preload above the minimum installed by the factory. This means trying out different preload positions and measuring dynamic sag 'till you get it right for riding solo. (To make it clear : if you were lighter than the specified rider weight, you would imperatively have to get the factory installed minimum preload decreased, or accept to ride solo with slightly wrong dynamic sag). As far as damping (rebound) goes, this is a Very Personal Matter. Damping influences roadholding AND comfort. The best way to find out what YOU like, is to testride the bike with different damping settings. If the damping is too open, the bike will start wallowing around, perhaps plushy, but not efficient in roadholding. With the rebound damping too closed the spring will not have the time to rebound before the next bump arrives, actually diminishing spring travel, diminishing roadholding... and the ride will get uncomfortably hard. It is false to think that a hard damping setup will result in better roadholding. In any case it's a compromise that you have to find out for yourself. Here's what I did : I went on a calm stretch of road with different curves and changing 'bumpiness' (that's important), and tried out different settings, always driving the same stretch. I opened the damping completely to understand the consequences, then closed it completely for the same reason, and then worked with small adjustments till I got it right to my taste. It took me a couple of hours. I like technique so I had a blast. For those who think this is all too complicated : it isn't, it's actually easy and a hoot ! And the reward is : an incredible improvement over the BMW stock solution. I'm convinced you'll enjoy your Wilbers ! Have fun ! * And here's the big difference with preload on a standard BMW spring : since BMW don't know how heavy the rider is, preload is set somewhere in the middle. It's up to the rider to find out the exact amount of preload he has to install for riding solo. This means the rider has to know about dynamic sag, and measure this for himself. I don't know dealers who explain this, I know even less riders who ride with the right basic set up. BTW the same basic error (BMW not knowing how heavy the rider is, and thus possible wrong preload) exists with ESA.

IMHO that's a good way to go, I don't know what's in the V11 but the Sporti's Ducati Energia Regulator I'm told is a Series type (thanks @Kiwi_Roy) I've also seen reports of guys installing shunt type regualtors and have not had any problem, so I guess you pays your money and takes you choice. Ducati recorded quite a few fires and melting looms with LiFe batteries and the Reg/Recs on those bikes were known to be weak. The common fix was a Shindengen Mosfet Reg/Rec replacement and I've not heard of any problems when using them @audiomick advice also is useful, the problem with them overheating is because of the low internal resistance, meaning they can pull or push large amounts of current, so an undersized or marginal battery doesn't sound like a wise move.

Not sure what tires the Sport 1100-i came with. The original V11 Sport was delivered with Pirelli Dragon Corsa sport tires and spec'd at pretty low pressures (33/37, IIRC). They wore really quickly and (IMO) contributed to the high speed weave exhibited by some of the early V11 Sports. With sport touring tires, I gradually settled on 35/40 as a compromise between road holding, longevity, and tire wear characteristics. These pressures also pass the "10% rule" on my Sport with its load-out, local road conditions/temperatures, and my weight in gear. I recently mounted my 58th tire on this V11 Sport. Certainly there is no more applicable topic to say "YMMV!"

The single disk clutch has an aluminium flywheel, other guzzi's have steel. And the rust on the picture is dirt from the clutch, that has been there fror a while, because the crack had been there a time before the real failure.