MartyNZ

Can you tell me more Tim? What was your decision and why?

I like your idea, but first, think about this: a. the snorkels exist mainly to draw cool air from forward of the hot air rising from the engine. Cool air = dense air so better performance. Shortening the air path may hurt more than it helps if it draws in hot air. b. The step in the intake snorkels is designed to catch and drain any water droplets from road spray & heavy rain. A coalescence trap. Cutting will remove that function. Maybe not a problem if you don't ride in rain. c. Since you already modified the bell mouths on the two snorkels, I expect the combined airflow available will already exceed the alternating flow demands from each throttle body, so opening the snorkels up further may not help. If you have a spare airbox cover, it would be a good experiment to try.

My bike had a 3000 rpm hiccup, which went away after I fitted new rubbers between the throttle bodies and the heads (mentioned by Jaap), and set the valve clearance wider than spec. But EMI interference is an interesting thought. You can reduce this by avoiding any parallel runs of cables next to the leads, or increasing the gap between the cables and leads. Double the gap, quarter the EMI.

Until the "battery brains trust" makes a comment, I'd like to share my opinion. Full Spectrum Power claim " lightest weight; highest cranking power; most capacity; smallest size". They don't specify their lithium cell chemistry, so it probably uses the high performing but dangerous polymer technology. It wouldn't be fun sitting on a battery fire. I use a Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 on my V11, and plug in the dedicated Shorai balance charger BMS01 a couple of times a year. It is a LIFePo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) type, which doesn't hold the most power, but is the safest chemistry. Comparison of lithium cell chemistry here: Safety of Lithium-Ion batteries - PowerTech Systems Shorai Battery Finder | Shorai Power (litema.com.au) What you need to know about lithium motorcycle batteries : FastBikeGear, Importers and Distributors of Motorcycle Accessories

It looks like a handy gadget. I see that an injector cleaning kit is available to buy from China, but it appears that yours has better electrical control. A crude one I made for Scud is show here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18805-brand-new-scura/&do=findComment&comment=215317 The Chinese kit has adapters for different injectors using spray can cleaners. https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005001855410559.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.48013c00GOr8LK&mp=1 I don't know if it allows back flushing, which I think is important.

A dry clutch, like a car

I've wondered that myself. A higher oil level seems like a good idea for improved pump priming and reduced risk of pump cavitation, so long as the plate is there to stop the crank from thrashing the oil into foam. But then higher oil level means less space for air/oil separation in the returning oil. Also less crankcase air volume may mean more energetic pressure pulses into the breather system, possibly leading to more oil into the air box. Although a 90 degree twin probably has lower pulsing than some designs. Or maybe there is no practical difference.

Sorry to hear about your tip over. I blamed the dog when it happened to me. I'd crimp and sleeve. Also I would slide some heat shrink tubing over the wire (before you finish crimping). Even better is the type of sleeving that has glue in it that completely seals the joint when heated.

Built cranks were reasonably common. Norton Commando cranks are bolted 3 piece. Honda CB350 & 450 are pressed together roller cranks. Yamaha XS650 is a pressed plain bearing crank. Probably lots more that I haven't seen.

You are not the only one to have trouble with exhaust gaskets. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19515-help-with-heads/&tab=comments#elControls_211589_menu

Magni is an Italian company who took good engines and put them into their own frames. The Sfida 1000 uses a Moto Guzzi Le Mans engine / gearbox. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magni_(motorcycle)

I need to sit down with a beer to consider the wisdom shown in this thread. But should I measure the beer in milliliters, pints, fluid ounces, or British standard bathtubs? (I just made that last one up). The V11 fuel tank holds about 1/64 BSBs.

I actually shimmed the gear/ cam wheels inwards toward the gear shifting pins to improve engagement in the cam slots. With only 0.3mm clearance, this meant some fiddling with the neutral switch seal washer.

A suggestion to try before you remove the side plate: push a screwdriver into the switch hole onto the cam plate. If you can feel the springiness of the banana plate bending, then it could mean the circlip is off.

Is it possible that the circlip (Item 13) (you call it a Seeger Ring) has come off, allowing the cam wheel to move inboard? [docc edit July 30, 2021: added red emphasis to @MartyNZ's correct answer. Thanks, Marty! ] Or the nut holding item 20 post is not tight? That would allow both wheels to move inboard. (But only a tiny bit)

Did you wind the switch in to fix a leak? Try turning the neutral switch out 1/6 turn intervals until it works normally, then fit a seal washer of that thickness. The switch turns on the green light when the plunger extends into a depression in the face of the lower cam wheel.

Joe says his gears are made of EN24T steel. This British standard is similar to US standard AISI 4340. It's pretty good stuff that could be heat treated up to ultra high strength. "T" condition has good strength yet can still be machined. (tensile strength 850/1000 N/mm² / 123-145 KSI)

This is very interesting for me. I know my timing chain is sloppy; when I point a timing light into the little inspection hole to see the flywheel mark, I can see the mark jiggling up and down. Since I have to fix this sometime, I have to ask whether you think a new chain and tensioner would achieve the same improvement as a gear set? I expect that it would be a lot cheaper.

I carry one under the seat in case I need an emergency top up. A downside is it unseats the valve in the wheel, so as you fit or remove it you lose a tiny bit of pressure. If you leave one on permanently, you add to potential pressure leak sources, and may upset wheel balance. Agree on angle valve stems, but Cash1000 had one leak after the thread stripped. Get good quality valve stems. I'm ambivalent on nitrogen. It is well established that eliminating water vapor and oxygen is helpful. Water vapor gives greater tire pressure changes with heat; important to avoid in racing. Oxygen causes oxidation: brittle rubber, rim rust, seal deterioration, and faster leak rate. The mandatory requirement for nitrogen in commercial aviation is valid in that industry where tires are 800% overloaded (intermittantly) in comparison to cars. This does not mean nitrogen is needed for cars or bikes. However consumer tests show a small but real reduction in pressure loss over several months for nitrogen inflated tires. This is good, but Dalton's law of partial pressures tells us that eventually other gasses will diffuse into a nitrogen inflated tire, so purging and re-inflating after several years could be needed. My conclusion is you could choose to use nitrogen if it is free, but checking tire pressure is more important.

Meinolf gave some advice on tuning to go with his map here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/#elControls_233775_menu I used his map on my Ti ECU, and have never been inclined to revert to the Ti map I saved.

If you find water, you should change the fuel filter, and clear the screen on the fuel tap inlet. I had brown fuzz through my bike fuel system that may have come from disintegrating filter paper.

Fuel pumped past the injectors returns to the tank through the pressure regulator. You can drain any water/old gas at the bottom of the tank by disconnecting the hose at the regulator, and collecting the fuel as you turn on and off the ign switch. About half a cup will come out each prime cycle.

Allite Super Magnesium "weighing 30% less than aluminum by volume and being both stiffer and stronger pound for pound". This is a misleading claim. Allite's website states their alloy strength is greater than steel (not in this universe) but they don't give numbers. Be careful not to slip in the snake oil - this alloy is likely to be weaker than the aluminum alloy in the factory side plates. To get equivalent strength you need to make magnesium alloy side plates thicker/bulkier to make up for the weaker material. Allite claim "shock absorbing properties" but this means it is more elastic (lower Young's modulus). This means a more floppy swing arm mount, unless made thicker/bulkier. You should listen to Pete, and also look at the material properties.

Douglas Noel Adams was a Brit who wrote "The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy" among other stories. A great storyteller who improved my life. If you find that you are taking yourself too seriously, his books are the antidote.

There's a good discussion on setting the sensor clearance here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21021-guzzisti-friendship/#elControls_240669_menu