MartyNZ

When Pete says something, it pays to listen. He has worked on Moto Guzzis before. Looking at your first post, it seems like pic 1 oscilloscope trace shows a lower sensor voltage and lower speed than pic 2. The SENS813 is an inductive pickup, which would put out lower voltage pulses if the gap to the phonic wheel was large. I think you could try reducing the SEN813 sensor gap to the minimum, and temporarily leave the o-ring seal out, just to check. As I see it, the sequence of events in the ECU are: 1. ECU Power on, self test, sensor check, and pump prime. 2. The ECU then waits until SEN813 pulses reach a "run" threshold. 3. The ECU will then turn on coils and injectors as instructed by the BIN file program. If the SEN813 sensor is faulty, or if the gap is too large, the ECU will not power the coils and injectors. As Chuck mentioned, electrical connectors can cause problems, and it is a good idea to remove and clean the connector to the ECU. What does your instrument panel RPM display show during cranking when it is sparking and not sparking? Be aware too that your manual says "If in the wrong position, the bank angle sensor may lead to sudden engine stalling". You mentioned this at the start, but you could try disconnecting it.

thanks Marty. but i already tried to air gap clearance. I have 5 each size shim. Can I suggest checking the gap by putting a bead of modeling clay or plasticine on the tip of the sensor, installing it when a tooth is lined up centred in the hole, removing and measuring the thickness. I know that it is easy to get that gap wrong, with shims and o-ring in the way.

From your video, we can see good spark when the engine cranks without compression, but then with the plugs in, there is no spark delivered from the coils. There are two changes to the engine from cranking with the plugs in or out. 1. The engine turns over slower with the plugs in. 2. The battery voltage is lower while the starter is working hard to crank with the plugs in. For effect 1, perhaps your SEN813 sensor is out of adjustment. Also called phase/revolution sensor, crank position sensor, or timing sensor. The workshop manual will give a specific clearance for the sensor from the phonic (toothed) wheel. If the gap is too great, the sensor voltage pulses will be low, below the threshold set in the ECU, so the ECU will not allow a start. This clearance is reduced by removing shims. I know of an '02 California that ran fine for 4 hour trip, then refused to start until the sensor clearance was reset. . This picture attached is for a V11. There should be something similar for your bike. Shimming V11 RPM Sensor.pdf For effect 2, consider ground connections. I know you checked the ground wire, but the ECU is sensitive to battery voltage. A poor connection at the battery, the gearbox, the frame, or pins 23 & 24 on the ECU could interfere with it's function. I'm assuming that you have a 15M ECU from the picture. The change in starter load between "plugs in" and "plugs out" will be matched by a change in voltage sensed by the ECU, and resistance in any connection can make a difference. If you can't fix it, and you want to get rid of it, just ship the whole bike to me. It would look good in my garage.

Nice try, no cigar. More elevation means richer mixture. In your normally aspirated airplane, you have to keep leaning the mixture as you climb. Chuck is right again. Scud asked a similar question here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19977 GuzziMoto is right too. The V11 ECU auto corrects the mixture as altitude changes. Yes, that little black button on the top corner of the ECU.

My 03 V11 Sport runs well without any pinging. I use 95 RON fuel, Meinolf's ECU map #42, and Titanium cans with everything else stock. It also ran well without pinging on the Titanium ECU programming. See https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19682&do=findComment&comment=214669for explanation of fuel ratings. The fuel I use doesn't have any alcohol, but as I understand it, ethanol improves the octane rating, so should be more resistant to pinging than straight petroleum fuel. When I first got my bike, it had NGK BPR5ES plugs instead of the correct heat rating BPR6ES. A hotter plug than specified can cause pinging. You should check your plugs, look for intake air leaks, and correct lean fuel trim, all of which can cause pinging, along with other ills. And as Docc says, the tune up is mandatory. Don't miss a step. I had to do the tune up twice before I was happy with my bike.

Try disconnecting the fuel hose at the regulator at the RH side of the tank. You should get a squirt of fuel out of the hose every time you turn on the key. If not, you have a supply problem. Tank valve, pump, filter, kinked hose. If you do decide to remove the injectors, you could try this: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18805&page=18&do=findComment&comment=215324

I would pick that swarf out. Then if you are concerned about the dent, poke a rod (like a philips screwdriver) into the bore, then biff the rod with the fitting resting on soft wood to dress out some of the dent. You will need a hammer .The dent on the tip is not really important, as the sealing surface is further down on the bevel. 68C gave good advice above. The cadmium plating protection will remain despite any rework, unless you do some sanding/machining. That nice gold colour is actually a passivation treatment over the cad plating. A friend once cad plated his Norton Commando brake disk because he didn't like rust on the cast iron. Obviously the pads quickly rubbed most of the plating off, but the disk didn't show any rust for years afterwards. Maybe some cad was smeared into pores of the cast iron, or maybe the remaining cad on the edges was enough to galvanically protect the iron. Cadmium plating is good stuff.

A friend here is building a '72 Norton engine to put into a flattrack racer he is making. He recommends Jim Schmidt at jsmotorsport.com for supply of improved Norton parts. He tells me that the 850 has relatively short con-rods, so the rods see undesirably high angularity. Jim sells pistons with the piston pin position slightly higher, and matching slightly longer Carillo rods, which are claimed to be more durable at higher rpm. Lucky Phil is right when he says that the original aluminium alloy rods have a limited life. Forging helps improve fatigue life, so does compressive stress peening, but no matter how it is made, alum rods will fail eventually. High rpm and high loads make that inevitable failure happen sooner. A bigger problem for that engine is the position of the oil pickup at the bottom of the crackcase. At sustained high rpm, the oil collects in an area further back from the pickup, the pump gulps air, and the big ends fail. That, along with the popped seal, may have added to the cause of your engine failure. My friend's fix is to apply the scoop shape to both sides of the crankcase, and reposition the pickup point to force more oil to the pump. A lot of work, but I think he enjoys the welding and machining involved. He is also making his own 270 degree crank for the engine. I think that this is so that it sounds more like a Guzzi.

A screenshot of that page:

Does this help?

I thought I'd check some numbers, since I can't understand the warning on the Ducati Energia invoice. I pulled out a Repco seven stage battery charger model NS-12V8A, part no RBC87S, common in NZ and Australia. I hooked it to a light truck battery, through long cables and a 100ohm resistor, trying to imitate a badly sulphated battery. Charger output measured at the charger was pulses at half second intervals of 12.48 V (low) to 14.78 V (high). Charge current was almost unreadable pulses on a 10A meter. The voltage at the battery (upstream of the resistor) was steady at 12.62V. Removing the 100ohm resistor changed things a lot. The charger switched to Bulk Charge mode, supplying 6A at 14.5V. My conclusion is that this particular charger cannot harm a Ducati regulator if it is left connected to the battery. 15V will not challenge the 200V rating mentioned by Kiwi_Roy.

I suspect that the Energia warning to disconnect during charging is due to some chargers having a desulfation mode. That mode applies higher voltage pulses in an attempt to restore sulfated plates. This regulator manufacturer seems to be unsure that their blocking diodes can withstand the desulfation pulses. There is no industry standard on pulse voltage, duration or frequency in desulfation mode. It is a partially effective but relatively brutal electrical process, so perhaps it would be best to disconnect the ground (- ve) terminal from a battery if you were going to use a desulfation charger. Why disconnect the ground terminal rather than the + positive? It avoids sparks if/when you touch the ECU with the spanner. Don't ask how I know this.

It's fine to charge a battery while it is connected in the bike if it has the original regulator. A good quality intelligent charger will avoid overcharging and possibly harming the battery. Docc has written a lot about the right way to charge an AGM battery. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18838 I bought a Shorai balance charger for the Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 battery in my bike, and it is designed to stay connected in maintenance mode, while the battery is still in the bike. The Ducati regulator hasn't missed a beat (after I fixed some bad connectors and grounds). The regulator blocks reverse current discharge from the battery with the engine stopped, and it can do this easily, whether it faces battery 12volts or charger 14volts. Regulators go bad from high voltage spikes (bad earths, intermittent output connections, poor 30A fuse contact), or internal circuit board corrosion damage. A battery charger won't hurt the standard regulator. ...and I see that Kiwi_Roy has already answered a similar question here https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&page=6&do=findComment&comment=235824

Hello Blight, My bike is exactly the same as your video. It is bad enough that riding slowly in first gear is uncomfortably jerky. All the backlash is between the output splines of the bevel box and the rear wheel. I thought the same as you, that the bevel box was failing, but no. You could check that backlash again with the rear wheel off to see if yours is the same.. See also https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20324 I tried installing the rear wheel after applying mould release spray and aluminised epoxy to the spline. After the epoxy cured, I greased the spline, refitted the wheel, and rode the bike. Much better, but a very temporary solution. It proved to me that the only fix is to replace the cush drive spline plate, and the crown wheel & pinion set. Expensive. Actually I bought a spline plate from Moto International (before they closed) and a 2nd hand low km bevel box from eBay Italy. How will I slow the spline from wearing again? Use a good layer of spline grease like Staburags NBU 30 PTM on it. I have already drilled the cush drive rubbers, and removed half the rubber pucks, to make the drive cushier. That is an idea from the Guzzi expert Greg Field, and I think it will prolong the life of all the splines from the clutch all the way back.

Knumbnutz posted pictures of a welded hole here https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19648 Drew, it will be interesting to hear from you about what you do (just plug a hole, or plug a large hole and add smaller holes) and the results you get.

Along with Docc's advice, see Tom M's post https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17835 for a pretty good answer. Also search for Marzocchi damping. There has been lots of discussion on this in the past.

The ECU takes an assumed value for temperature when a sensor is unplugged. If it runs better unplugged, then tuning is bad, it is probably running too lean. You could try using Guzzi Diag to set the fuel trim to zero, or if it is already there, try +10, or so. I think you will need to connect the sensor and clear ECU faults before you can adjust fuel trim. Guzzi calls that sensor on the head the "Oil Temp Sensor", and says in the workshop manual "the ECU uses the oil temp signal to adjust..." as the signal is added to the inputs from other sensors to optimise injection duration and ignition timing. The bike will behave better at all ranges of engine and outside temperature if you leave it connected and fix the tuning. The attachment shows the air temp sensor in the air box, but the oil temp sensor is just as important to the ECU. BTW, if you have a power commander, try running the bike without it. It, or the connectors to it, can go bad.

The old plug lead I keep as a spare in the monkey paw trap measures 670mm long, but I don't know if it was left or right. The leads will be different lengths left to right due to cylinder offset. Two 1m lengths will do the job. The plug caps screw on to one end, but you will need the crimp terminals for the coil end. BTW, the white writing on the leads will wipe off with isopropyl alcohol (actually several wipes). Have you tried that for your white splotches? The NGK leads I bought came with red sleeving as well, which is good to put where the leads chafe on the frame and throttle bodies. Heat shielding is not necessary with silicone insulation, but abrasion protection is.

Mate, New Zealand is a different country than Australia, if you are talking about that Dec 2016 shipment. Kiwis are a bit sensitive about the distinction.

Hi Rob,There are a couple of pictures here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20117&page=2&do=findComment&comment=227185 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547&page=4&do=findComment&comment=218290 Check that the rear wheel spins freely, and you should be good.

I have a bolt PN GU37638605 you can have, if that's what you really want. PM me. But first, have you read the postings below? https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19107&hl=locking https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19655&do=findComment&comment=214039 The reason I have this spare bolt PN GU 37638605 is because I took Scud's advice, & replaced it with an improved bolt PN GU 01638630, and locking pin PN GU 02466900. This improved part is available at Moto International & AF1 $45, Harper's $43, and Stein Dinse €43. Not cheap, but then nor is a damaged rear brake.

Looks like a good idea. Tell me, have you tested fluid flushed out of a caliper and compared it fluid in the reservoir? I always wondered how much the fluid mixes in a non-ABS brake system.

Here you are Docc. The ECU on my bike was a Titanium Kit ECU with this ident: IAW 15M PF3C 61601.045.00 3D02VS9G Now it has been overwritten with Meinolf's program #42, which has this ident: IAW 15M PF3C 61600.537.01 #58ZZP8-

Is there nothing this guy can't do? A great motorcycle rider, an accomplished mechanic, an excellent story teller, a spring manufacturing production manager (with global reach), and now a published author. Wow.