MartyNZ

You're right. And so is he to tell you to use it. Or CAIG DeoxIT. Any dielectric is a very good insulator. But as a grease, like "bulb grease", Permatex dielectric grease, CRC dielectric grease, or "DuPont Molycote 4", the grease is easily pushed aside to let metal to metal electrical contact for terminals, plugs, bulbs etc. It stops oxygen and water from tarnishing the contact metals, so connections last better. It won't fix bad connections, (mechanical scraping does that, or unplug/repluging) but it will preserve good connections. This is what it is designed for. Vaseline does a similar job, but silicon dielectric grease doesn't burn, and won't freeze or run from -50 to +200C. Important for aircraft. Another handy property of silicon grease is it conducts heat, despite not conducting electricity. CAIG DeoxIT and similar electrical clean/protection sprays are combined contact cleaner, corrosion inhibitor, and dissolved grease in a spray can. The solvent cleans the connection, and inhibitor/grease protects the connection. They work well, but the benefits don't last as long as a dielectric grease. My bike had every electric plug & terminal connected oozing with DC4. Years later, no problems. (except for a couple of those effing relays).

Have you tried this place? https://woodcraft-cfm.com/collections/clipons-spare-parts

Here's some pictures of the mounts on my bike. You can see a bit of paint blistering where I ground some clearance on the mounts for something nearby. Excuse the grime. I've always wondered what Docc does to keep his bike looking so nice? Maybe he can share the secret

I walked into a HD dealership today by mistake. It was disguised as a CanAm dealership. I got out ok, but had to stare at a nearby Ducati 998 for a while until I felt better.

Wow, that's a nuisance. I have a pair of bevel boxes apart at the moment, and noticed that the crown wheel and bearing inner race are pressed onto the shaft/output spline. I even thought about separating the crown wheel off one shaft to fit to another shaft with an unworn output spline, thinking it may avoid the tricky job of shimming and setting backlash. But no. Anyway for your problem. Bevel boxes in earlier Guzzis have a ring of big bolts that indicate high loads in the joint that failed on your shaft. Bearing retainer or epoxy may not make a strong enough bond. Brazing may work if your expert can avoid affecting the heat treatment of the teeth and spline. Otherwise you are facing replacement of the CW & pinion as a pair (or the whole thing).

I had a leak like that, and found that the two recessed nuts in the tank had pulled out a bit. I filed across the plastic base a tiny bit (0.5mm) to make sure that the o-ring was being clamped properly. Seemed to work for me.

Here is a video of a V11 going from Christchurch to Akaroa in New Zealand. This is a popular trip around here This seems to be the guy's first ride on a Guzzi, and he has some charming commentary about the bike. https://youtu.be/E3us8tjJRTU And here is my bike at a bay near Akaroa

There is a post about repair of those Titanium mufflers here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/13524-repairing-a-ti-can/

Hello Simone, There are some BIN files available for the 15M at https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/ If you cannot download them, send me a personal message, and I will email them to you. I can't find a 15RC BIN, but there are people who may help. See discussions: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16359-california-vintage/page/6/&tab=comments#elControls_251108_menu https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22035-ecu-limited-by-stock-o2/ DD fitted a 15M in place of a 15RC and with Meinolf's BIN, he is very happy with the results. This disabled the lambda sensor. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19652-v11-ecu-15rc-vs-15m/ Happy 2021, Marty.

Keep in mind that all battery types have poorer performance when cold. https://www.power-sonic.com/blog/batteries/lithium-vs-lead-acid-batteries/

The British had Ogri.

Peter, it seems that you did a good job of removing the bearing. I went through the same pain. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19514-encyclopedia-of-compatible-parts/page/2/&tab=comments#elControls_216691_menu

A design philosophy to consider is to assist thermo-syphon effects. If both pump flow and "hot oil rising, cool oil falling effect" go in the same direction, then flow is better. I believe that the hot supply should go into the cooler at the top, and cold return out the bottom, just like a car coolant radiator.

Cash1000 visited for a dipstick exchange, and to look sadly at my bike. That Rosso Mandello really looks great in the sun.

I'm looking forward to seeing your video of the trip from Edendale to Owaka and back. And just for fun, a wee blast along Oreti Beach, just to channel Bert.

I can reattach the stick with heat resisting epoxy if you'd like. And you can borrow my original plastic dipstick while it's curing.

How about these guys : €202 https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/partsearch/moto-guzzi/GU0194809

Have you looked at your parts catalogue to find the part number of the decals that you want? Searching for the part number may lead you to a cheaper part. For example, will this decal suit you? http://www.harpermoto.com/decal-motoguzzi-silver-01917500.html

Hello Antonio, Have you tried TLM? https://shop.tlm.nl/en/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=V11+decal

Rob, don't forget I have a spare side plate that doesn't have a crack waiting in the attic for you.

I've never had slow cranking on my bike, mainly because I am too soft to go out in the cold. But I checked what Shorai had to say about cold starting. They say: "If starting at 5C, headlights on for 30 seconds will help wake the battery and increase cranking performance. If at -17C, leave the lights on for 4~5 minutes before cranking. The result will be a better first crank, and longer battery life. If the engine fails to start on first crank, that first crank has warmed the battery, and the second attempt will be much stronger." So Phil makes a good point.

It sounds like you did a thorough job of troubleshooting and fixing the electrics. And you are right about this forum being excellent. I just finished fitting a later model gearbox shifter plate with the banana link, and doing the Lucky Phil fettling of the shift hook, and finally installing the Scud/Chuck spring. I had already fitted the Phil/Chuck extended shifter lever. Shifting is a charm now. I owe so much to the wisdom of the forum members. Now what was I saying? Oh yes, as I took the starter off, I noticed the same loose spade connector on my bike, and I fixed it the same way you did. Clean, squeeze, grease, and go. I did the same to the starter faces that touch the bell housing, as that is the starter earth return. You may want to check the earth circuits for the regulator and coils too.

When the gearbox is in neutral, the switch plunger goes into a shallow dish in the lower cam wheel. I'd check that you don't have too thin a seal under the switch. If so, the plunger can't extend enough to ground the circuit. When in neutral, try unwinding the switch one flat at a time, and if the light comes on, then you need a thicker seal washer. Of course then you need to be sure that the light goes out when in all 6 gears.

Remember that there are two hollow dowels that locate the plate against the gearbox housing, so the plate cannot move sideways. The dowels are tight, which adds to the difficulty. The plate must pull straight away from the case by repeated jiggling after the bond line is released. Heat may help soften whatever is holding it. BTW, it is best if you can be certain that the bike is in either neutral or 1st before removing the plate. If you choose neutral, mark the cam wheel alignment at adjacent teeth. There's already marks for first gear.

Jason, I put a computer hard drive magnet on the oil filter of my Toyota Hilux pickup. It stayed in place till the next oil change, when I opened the filter can to look. I could see the outline of the magnet on the inside of the filter can. Just a dark outline that disappeared as soon as I touched it. So the magnet was collecting steel particles from the oil, but I don't know if it has any real world benefit. It certainly can't do any harm on an external filter, but I'd be reluctant to put one inside the sump of my bike.