MartyNZ

The TI ECU is a standard ECU with a slightly richer map preloaded. And a Titanio sticker over the Marelli original. When I got my V11, it already had a TI kit fitted, which includes a TI ECU. I saved the .bin file from the ECU, and then overwrote various other bin files on it using GuzziDiag and the 2 associated read/write programs. I am using a Meinolf bin file (map) at the moment, because it starts and runs better than anything else I have tried.

Have you looked at the FRAM Fuel Filter G3895? Both barbs are at one end. Dimensions below in inches. 33463 WIX or F53190 PUROLATOR might be similar. Height 4.969, Outside Diameter 2.172, Inlet Line Size 5/16 Tube Connector, Outlet Line Size 5/16 Tube Connector, Construction Metal.

You are thinking of AC current. That AC "skin effect" becomes more pronounced as the AC frequency goes higher, and is only noticible at kilohertz ranges. DC current flows through the total cross sectional area of the conductor. Exterior tarnishing cannot limit current in the cable, except at external connections like crimps. I agree that Iridium plugs are worth the money.

All the electrical problems on my V11 were caused by degraded connections. Tarnishing or corrosion between the cable terminal and the battery post or gearbox ground point for example. This is fixed by cleaning the contact faces of the terminal and the face of the thing it touches. This fix can be made permanent by applying grease/vaseline/dielectric grease to the joint before assembly, then tightening the connection. The grease squeezes out to allow a good electrical contact, and prevents air or water causing more tarnishing or corrosion. New cables can also fix electrical problems, so long as you make sure the new terminals contact clean and bright metal. Bad crimping of a factory cable could be fixed a new cable, but this is rare. New cables will look nicer, but cost more. https://motolectric.com/faq.html appear to make a good product, but their copper terminals are not tin plated. Bare copper tarnishes without this protection. Strike 0ne. They claim "As wire ages it flows less current " and other statements which defy the laws of physics. Strike two...

Yep, they are good. The white writing can be wiped off with isopropyl alcohol if you think it looks pretentious (although the words "racing cable" does add 2hp ). The sleeve can be slid along the cable to protect against chaffing on the frame and cylinder heads.

Try searching "tank strap rubber". There is a local company over here that makes EPDM extruded sections in many sizes. https://www.rubbermark.co.nz/product/tank-strap/ Let me know if I can help with ordering some.

My bike had bullet connectors on those two yellow wires, and after they melted and fused, I cut them off, slid on some heat shrink sleeve, fitted crimp connectors, applied DC4 dielectric grease (any grease is better than nothing) , and shrunk the heat shrink sleeve so the grease squeezed out each end. The joints have been trouble free ever since. The wiring is in a hostile environment with tire spray, and heat/cool cycles. You will need to cut the crimps if you want to remove the engine or alternator stator in the future, but the yellow wires were much too long so that would be no problem. The reason the connectors melted was because of resistance in the connector caused by corrosion in the joint. Water, salt, oxygen, make the connection corrode, so the resistance goes up. Joules law says heat in a connection equals current squared times resistance. Say 10 amps through 2 ohms gives 200 watts of heat. 10x10x2=200W. That's more than enough to melt the connectors. We often see the same in the 30 amp fuse melting. Clean and sealed connectors can last, if water and oxygen are excluded.

I've got a swivel adjustable grease thing that you can borrow. It's not great, but works.

Ha! That's what Lorde was singing about. "That green light, I want it". https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18925-what-do-you-listen-to-share-your-favs/&do=findComment&comment=239743 But seriously, I think Lucky Phil is right.

As well as getting relays failing, you can get poor pin retention, and/or pushed back sockets in the relay bases. See Kiwi_Roy's advice on fixing the relay bases. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/&do=findComment&comment=172857

I made my own copy of the factory stand, but I am out of town for two weeks. When I get back I can send you a sketch if you want it. I copied Cash1000's homemade stand, but added wheels and painted it red.

WMV11_Alternator&Reg.pdf

A nice looking Lario for sale in NZ, just up the road from me. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-2268517827.htm?rsqid=06d6bf4805ad4edeb3b42dd92705feba-001 I see that a commenter suggested that "GN250 valves, with an easy mod to the collet-area, solves any problems with valves dropping through pistons, cheap as chips".

I had the same problem. You need to replace the indicator bulb in the dash panel with a pair of green LEDs back to back, and wire a ground to the back. Otherwise all the indicators will find a ground though that little bulb to the other half of the circuit. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20690-led-blinkers-lr-blinking-at-the-same-time/&do=findComment&comment=238063

It looks like you have cornered the Omron relay market. There can't be any left in the world now apart from in your workshop. How many bikes are you maintaining?

I expect that you still need the ECU and 2 coils for ignition, unless you somehow fit a distributor system. I always thought that EFI was a great way to avoid the "Guzzi Wave" where a rider tries to shake the cramp out of his right hand after hours of pulling against big carb return springs.

Yes, like the French brand bicycle tires I recently bought, made in Malaysia, shipped to New Zealand, from a Spanish retail store.

Ball sockets Mercedes Benz P/N A0009930461, and Volvo P/N 946703 both work. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19266-throttle-body-balance-rod-repair/&do=findComment&comment=208046

I don't have a specific answer for you, but I have had good results doing general cleaning/lubrication of switchgear and connectors, and most important is KiwiRoy's relay base repair. I opened up the handlebar switchgear, cleaned, and lubed using automotive electrical switch grease: Lubriplate DS-ES. Dirt and moisture in switches does bad things. https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/DS-ES/DS-ES/DS-ES,-1-75-OZ-TUBE/ KiwiRoy's relay base repair has helped 2 bikes over here. I have found poor spade connector tension the base, and also pushed back base connectors. I put some foam plastic tape wound between the relays to limit movement from vibration. So far, so good. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/&do=findComment&comment=172857 Some might call this the wild flailing method of maintenance, but sometimes it works.

My air bleed screws are both fully closed.

Are the bar end weights still there? They help damp handlebar vibrations. So do mirrors.

I have a box of helicoils to do the job if you are stuck. Not as good as Timesert, but still work ok. And you can have them NOW if that is important.

The first subject is current drain. You have some good suggestions above already. If you haven't found the leak yet, you need to keep disconnecting things until you do. 20 milliamps is the sort of leakage current you can get across wet and dirty deposits, such as salt spray and road grime on the back of an unprotected starter. Or a switch filled with water. Secondly, for the burned ground wire, the file I attached shows a circuit diagram. It shows one of the two ground leads that should both be in good order. Note that this lead has three connections: regulator, engine/gearbox, & battery. 2.5 sq mm is a good size cable. You may know it as 13 or 14 AWG. Kiwi_Roy has previously made a good suggestion about using an aluminium strap as a bonding lead between the regulator and engine..

V11 Alternator Regulator.pdf It could be internal leakage in the regulator. See last paragraph of page attached.

The Waddington Effect sounds a bit like the story about Mrs Schilling's orifice. She developed a way to allow the early Solex carburettor equipped Rolls Royce Merlin engines to run inverted for longer. I suspect that my bike won't run inverted either. Do I need Beatrice's help? https://www.open.edu/openlearn/science-maths-technology/engineering-technology/beatrice-shilling-1909-1990#