Pressureangle

I found that it's much easier to install the rubbers onto the engine side first, as it's stable. Then the throttle bodies into the stable rubbers.

Back in ol' Sportster days, every single one of them got loose stem bearings; there is a very specific procedure for tightening them and if too loose the bike would weave and worst case death wobble. Perhaps that got serviced?

I'll field this (not in Pete's place) When you feel this instability, lean forward and push the bars forward to see if it stabilizes. High-speed weave is less a function of brand than of wind pushing you rearward causing you to pull on the bars, which are engineered to have some weight on them. The dynamics are aeronautic-level complex but not too hard to cure once you see the symptoms. You can find hundreds of examples of wind-weave on YouTube- right up to 'tossed off hard'. Worst that can happen is I'm wrong.

On another fanatical note, the T1 trust has secured an assembly facility in Denison, Ohio less than 2 hours from my shop. I'll be discovering whether I can force my way in to touch anything. https://prrt1steamlocomotivetrust.org/

I grew up climbing on this devil, the equal of the Big Boy; arguably stronger and slower, the Lima locomotive works 'Allegheny' at the Henry Ford Museum. Every summer there was a steam excursion from Dearborn, MI to Ft. Wayne, IN. I worked in a print shop across the street from the tracks, and over all the machinery you could hear the 2-8-4 Nickel Plate Road Lima Berkshire 765 thundering and sounding so far away we had plenty of time to shut down and run out to watch.

To be clear, they carry oil from inside the engine to the oil cooler hose connections on the outside of the sump ring.

My 'Sport did exactly that twice, upon which I installed an LED voltmeter to discover that the voltage (upon recharging the battery to full) was very weak, ~13.8v, and got worse with heat and distance. The short story is the connections of the yellow leads between the stator and regulator (under the headlamp on a 1100 Sport) were fried, causing high resistance. This connection is under the tank alongside the frame. I eliminated the bullet connectors and voltage went straight back up to ~14.5v and has stayed there now for a few seasons.

You can't just swap sides, you have to swap them on the coils as well.

I've measured mine a few times with different gear oils- never had the opportunity during a good high-speed long thrashing, but in 'spirited' riding my rear drive has been between 135-170* depending on specific conditions and oil choice. A rule of thumb is that if you can keep your hand on the item in question for more than 5 seconds the temperature is below 150*.

FWIW rather than dremel clearance, flinging tiny chips everywhere, I'd locate the contact point between case and bracket with layout dye, or even a sharpie and some care. Then centerpunch your point and use a drill, somewhat larger diameter than the pin to sink the clearance. A bit of grease on the drill bit and some care in the work area guarantees you don't get swarf in the engine.

Ah geez... I will probably have the BMW in El Paso by then, and have family in Reno... OTW.

That'll be me. Ooo, pretty colors! What shall it be? lol Red. For all the world to see.

https://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/clutch-slave-cylinders

It does; mine was frame mounted, I installed it across the front in the airflow. The body is just a tiny bit smaller, so it's not as tight as the stocker but good.

I've had the Quantum pump on mine for...7 years? and about 15k miles. iirc Quantum has a meaningful warranty.

This has been on my list for a very long time. SOON

Oberon, who made my gas tank filler cap, also makes v11 clutch slave cylinders. I'll need one myself shortly. They have their own eBay store. It seems their website only shows back to 2005- can anyone confirm fitment for prior years? I don't know why MG would have changed it later. https://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/moto-guzzi/moto-guzzi-clutch-slave-cylinder

Hey , did you do anything more about your frame situation ? Happened across a rolling frame in Michigan, oddly enough no meaningful rust. It'll come home next time up, July.

A black wet plug usually has 2 main root causes- either there is a mechanical problem bringing oil into the combustion chamber or more likely, a weak ignition system. The first thing I'd check is the spark plug cap. The cap should be about 5k ohms, I've had old ones fail and new ones junk. If the resistor opens you may have intermittent and/or weak spark, or even spark tracking down the plastic outside the plug core.

My observations are that the engine is very sensitive to fuel quality. I've seen a 10% difference in fuel economy between tanks across the country- octane is ping resistance, but it doesn't correlate directly with energy content. I've never heard my own engine ping, but I have a MyECU with the ignition base map having been worked out long before I tuned the fuel. A couple points- Octane obviously is the primary indicator of ping resistance; do you always use premium, or are you running 87 ever? At what RPM are you having the ping? Oil of any sort always reduces octane. Have you any indication of oil consumption? Though I don't experience it, I would expect a hot engine, such as having waited a long light on a hot day, to ping at lower (<4k) rpm with heavy throttle. As a matter of course, when I know I'll be riding less than aggressively I'll run a tank through with Marvel Mystery Oil to wash off any meaningful carbon deposits. I will also periodically run a bottle of Chevron Techron, between the two additives it keeps the combustion chambers and fuel injectors as clean as possible. I discovered upon having my injectors cleaned that the flow was down considerably from stock, and very different from side to side as well which made tuning impossible.

Well, we had the War of the Roses and Ivan the Great. 1490 was boring.

Well, we all know short frames are better frames. I mean, who wants to ride something that handles like a boxcar?

My Grandfather had a stuffed Jackalope head over the fireplace mantle.

First time I saw a Hare, though American at the Grand Canyon, from the car a hundred feet in front I thought it was a small deer.

Harper's MG has had billet levers for some time, I have a set on my 'Sport and they're very high quality. Brake and Shift. https://harpermoto.com/products/harpers-6061-billet-aluminum-v11-lemans-rear-brake-lever-0110830?_pos=14&_sid=71e69676c&_ss=r