Pressureangle

My '97 Sport Injected did that while the cam sensor was failing, including feeling a bit better with a new TPS. Then the sensor went completely dead. If it gets worse with heat, and comes back when cold, perform a resistance check on the cam sensor when cold and hot, check that it's not shorting or opening with the heat. Mine was swollen and hard even to pull from the case.

Awesome website. Back at ya; everybody needs this one. http://batteryuniversity.com/

With every one of these devices that rest on the brake lever, they fail to design it so that the resting bar is at least parallel to the brake lever, causing the throttle to be rotated open when you pull the brake lever. I don't like it.

In any case, 120NM is ~88 lbs-ft. Not particularly tight for such a large piece, anyway. So tightening the nut isn't threatening to damage anything, even if they meant tightening the axle into the nut. As stated above, I've never seen an axle nut come loose on anything, ever.

"P.Roper" torque . . . So, this business of "torque the axle from the drive side" . . . Any basis as to why? Sure. You are just torquing the nut, not the whole assembly with the attendant drag involved if you are torquing the shaft. At least that makes sense to me.. Yet the V11 Workshop Manual torque page states: "Rear wheel spindle screw (housing side) 120Nm" I've always read that as torquing the axle, not the nut. I never did it that way, but that's how I read it. After so many struggles with my reardrive(s), I'm trying to follow the directions, now. But I'm curious about this special instruction. Purr-Happs you have the axle in backwards...? [edit/docc: That cannot be done. The axle goes in from the right ("housing side"), nutted on the left swingarm.]

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXRy1_nPPSeMQnaam1Hz2vM12xJ5q4bXZ

Good stuff. I'd worried too, about unintended activation/deactivation/durability of the Kaoko. I like to rest my hand on the bar end sometimes, and that would lean on the lock. It appears it's plastic too, and for the price you'd expect billet aluminum. Harley-Davidson has had this figured out for fifty years.

Options; Look through the bin at the hardware; often, different lots of nuts have different heights. Yours looks to be pretty tall, you might find a new one a thread shorter. Look for a non-nylon locking nut. 'aircraft nuts' or 'pinch nuts' are usually shorter than nyloc. Since it's a non-load bearing component, I'd feel safe even with a low-clearance nyloc, which may have 1/2-2/3 the thread engagement. A last, but hard-to-find option is to source a nut (or make one, if you have a light touch and cobalt drill bit) with safety wire holes and wire it.

I'm really ...um... not cool about having anything touching my brake lever, after that whole 'turn one at Daytona' debacle. I suppose proof is in the pudding, and experience over time creates trust.

Thread from the dead. Looking for 'cruise control' for the '97 1100 Sport. Anybody know what fits/doesn't fit? I thought these are cool, overcomplex, and mostly unobtrusive and user friendly. https://usa.kaoko.com/MOTOBRE-Throttle-Stabilizer

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It's in, and using Raz's map, tweaking it with the o2 sensor for my pipes.

I have a '74 Aermacchi 350 and '71 Fastback Commando apart for that. This one is for riding. (I'm in S.FL so no winter off season)

Or maybe I didn't load the last page. 6 years.

Wow. Last post 10 years ago. Just got mine sorted in the 1100 Sport i. Magnificent.

When I was going through the Sport upon it's arrival, I found the airbox full of tar, and it took 4-5 times of very serious chemical assault to clean the mung out of the TBs and throttle plates. I used an entire can of carburetor cleaner, and nearly an entire can of TB/intake specific cleaner to get 95% of it out. I've never seen anything like it. The odometer showed only ~20k miles, but the bike's obviously been down so it's possible it isn't the original. Can I suggest you buy a small ultrasonic cleaner off ebay ( they are very affordable) to make this job and many others very quick and easy. Ciao you mean as in *take it apart*? I'll apply the 80/20 rule any time 80% is 100% serviceable and invisible.

That term was coined by Todd Haven (RIP) of MPH cycles. At that time, they sold a plug and play kit to plug into your Guzzi to cure the problem. I still say, "She's dead, Jim." I would at least try a known good battery. The meter doesn't lie. If your battery drops below about 9.5 volts during cranking, the computer shuts down to save itself from overcurrent. (at least that's common to stuff I've worked on) Your starter quite possibly draws more amps than your load tester, if you have a small handheld. Your battery is 4 years old. They don't make 'em like they used to, either. Get a new one. If that's not the problem, you needed a new battery soon anyway.

Been there before they filled it in. Sissies.

My '97 Sport i came to me with intermittent intermittency. On the way to a complete and sudden failure, the timing sensor symptoms were hard starting, spluttery and unsteady running, similar symptoms to lean conditions; this evolved (over the course of 100 miles or so) into quitting altogether when hot. Related to your symptoms, somewhere along the way it did begin to cut out at about 2500 or so, as if it was running out of fuel. At the end of the day, when it was cold it mostly worked but when hot went open-circuit. (I verified the resistance at temps but don't have them recorded) So, they don't necessarily fail all at once. As for their function- and I'm not trying to start an argument- a simple coil generator like this actually makes more voltage as the reluctor passes faster, so theoretically if reluctor gap is the issue, it should show up at lower RPMs. I would suggest that a shorted or part-open coil will have an unsteady field, confusing the computer which wants to see a steady sine wave. I found the cam sensor on ebay from Europe for $18 plus about the same in shipping; they used this same sensor on about every fiat and other brand in the world, but they never came to the US so we have no source for them here.

It's a gravity well. Don't look in.

Centauro! https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/col/mcd/d/1998-moto-guzzi-v10-centauro/6547136733.html

*additionally* but not *entirely*.

I hate countersteering threads. But I can't stop myself. Bicycles and Motorcycles have precisely the same characteristics. Countersteering applies *only* at the initiation of a turn; that includes from a vertical straight line, or from an equalized constant radius turn. To change the attitude of the vehicle, you must change the relationship of center-of-mass to contact patch. The only way to get them farther away from, or closer to, vertical alignment is to steer the front wheel opposite to the intended direction of turn. Countersteering is NOT turning. It is setting up the balanced dynamic that a turn requires. Separating the act of setting up a turn and executing a turn in one's mind opens up a whole new world of understanding, competency, and control.

The core of the thread was keeping oil from escaping the breather. Negative pressure is really just a potential side benefit of changing the breather arrangement to better control oil transport.

So because of the warranty, I ordered this one. It was a direct precise replacement; the diameter was the same, length, even the two power posts were the different and correct sizes. It's also a pretty blue color. As soon as it caught fuel, it was obvious that the old pump was suffering; the old pump was pretty noisy and 'rough', and the fuel returned to the tank through the regulator sounded 'squishy'. Now with the new pump, it's very quiet and smooth, hums rather than rattles. The returning fuel sounds smooth, steady, and pure. If all that makes any sense... Anyway I'm very happy with the new pump, though the old one hadn't failed (but once). I'm calling it pre-emptive maintenance.