audiomick

Reading all that, I felt an echo regarding my job. OK, when I get something wrong, nobody dies. But it (sound engineer, i.e. the bloke at the desk in the middle of the auditorium) is a "high stress" job. When it goes wrong, everyone in the audience looks at you, and the client wants to know what you did wrong. So the same things apply: if you're going to do the job, know that you can do it, and make sure your really can do it. Be relaxed and confident, and never lose your concentration.

Since no-one has published a list,or at least I haven't noticed it, here is a list of the things I have read about (mostly here) that one should look for: The front bolt of the torque arm is prone to being unlubricated and accordingly in poor condition. The pinch bolts on the drive shaft are prone to having been abused. There is a roller bearing on the outward side of the bevel drive that needs to be looked at and greased. The spacer in the wheel between the bearings is apparently not always exactly the right length. If it is wrong, the bearings don't live long. The one in mine was completely wrong, maybe 5 mm too short, and had been spaced out with a hand cut bit of pipe. The bearings were shot, of course, but I think someone had buggered around with it and got it wrong. Anyway, it is something to have a look at. The bottom mount on the shock has been mentioned. Getting grease into the front grease nipple on the drive shaft is an art unto itself, and reams have been written on the way to solve the problem. The easiest way is to pull the shaft out and do it on the bench. A clever combination of grease gun and grease gun fitting and lots of practice can also achieve the goal in situ, allegedly. While it is all apart, look at the battery minus connection to the back of the gear-box. Cleaning it can't hurt. I think there was something else, but I can't think of it right now. Maybe someone else will chime in.

I'd be interested in that myself. I'll keep an eye on this thread for when it comes up.

Bear in mind, those are only lock nuts. They don't hold the wheels on. When you do them back up again, they only have to be tight enough to hold the pins in place. More relevant is how far the pins are screwed in, as that determines the alignment of the swingarm. The recommendation that I have often seen is to remove the lock nuts, and measure how long the bit of the pin is that is sticking out. Aim for that when you put them back in, and the swing-arm should end up back where it belongs.

My '02 Le Mans hasn't had as hard a time as yours, but it obviously has had a bit of a hard life. When I went into the back end about a year ago, I pulled everything off, wheel out, swing-arm off, torque rod off, shaft off and disassembled on the bench, to have a good look at it all. Turned out to be a good idea. I'd suggest you do the same. You might find some "interesting" things, like I did. While your in there, I'd strongly suggest obtaining and mounting the clutch bleeder extension that was standard on later models like the Griso. Part #12 here https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=de&m=210&t=5005&c=Z This: https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/search-1-05606630-.html Get the bolt and seals as well, you need them. Part #8 and #9. It is not exactly cheap, but makes bleeding the clutch a very simple task instead of a complete pain in the arse. Given that you are in there anyway, and no doubt will be changing the clutch fluid anyway, it seems the ideal time to bolt the thing in there while you're at it.

I don't know, but... @Lucky Phil put a V10 in his V11 chassis, so the other way around should be possible, I reckon.

Neither do I, actually, but I'm pretty sure that crossing paths like that wouldn't happen here. Another thing, that ceiling has been bothering me. Turns out I remember correctly: That is for Australia. https://aircraftnoise.airservicesaustralia.com/2020/04/30/what-are-the-rules-about-altitudes/ Another thing, during my time at Uni in the 1980's there was a move to build a helipad on top of this hospital. https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/24595717#map=17/-37.756605/145.058914 The idea had merit, as it is a major hospital in which accident victims with major injuries often end up being treated. Being able to land the helicopter on the roof would be very convenient. It wasn't allowed, because the hospital is in the middle of a built-up area. In the end, the helicopters used the helipad next to a Victoria Police forensics lab next to my Uni. Here: https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/27877532#map=17/-37.725189/145.055961 4.7 km down a straight street, so about 5 minutes for an ambulance with the disco on. What I'm getting at: given the caution used in air traffic where I grew up, and where I live now, the situation around that accident seems to me to be sheer recklessness.

I've got another question: why on earth is there an "established" helicopter route that crosses the aproach path to a an airport? Bugger the maximum ceiling, why are they allowed to fly through there at all?

Without wanting to completely de-rail the thread, measuring the tyre is not the right way to go at that. One should mark the side-wall of the tyre where it touches the ground, and make a corresponding mark on the ground. Roll the vehicle forwards until the mark on the side-wall is back down to the ground, and mark the ground again. The distance between the two marks on the ground is the real rolling diameter of the tyre.

@HadaDaytona listen carefully to Phil's advice, and then ignore as much of it as you choose. Phil knows what he is talking about, not doubt. On the other hand, it is a great project. The substance of the Centauro is good, and deserves to look like a sports bike. If you have the money and the perseverance, go for it.

Seems to me more like a surcharge for having to work on the porch.

Have you asked here? Probably, but I thought it can't hurt to mention it just in case. https://de.tlm.nl/

That's nasty.

Brown? Is that original paint?

I'm speculating a bit now, but that isn't plausible. When the lever is "activated", it is pumping, so how could anything, fluid or air, get back past the piston into the reservoir? There is, however, a way back past the piston when the lever is released. One can often see fluid swirling back into the reservoir when the cap is off and the lever released after a pumping stroke. As far as "zero pressure" and "no resistance" goes, I would suggest that those are relative terms. If your braking system really was creating "zero pressure", it would not have worked after the subsequent successful bleed. A bit like the guitarist sitting in front of his Marshall who claims he "can't hear anything". Of course he can, and of course your braking system was creating pressure, just very little. Given that the system must have been creating pressure (even if it didn't feel like much at the lever) because it subsequently worked without any other changes, one can assume that the bubbles in the system where a little smaller overnight when the lever was tied off. Maybe that helped, as well as maybe some of the air going into solution. Or maybe the bubble would have found its way up to the reservoir anyway, and tying the lever off was just voodoo.

I assume that is not your bike, as I don't believe you would see any real benefit in putting bandages on the headers. Unless they were bleeding, of course.

As far as I know, the studded tyres are no longer permitted in Germany, but I'm not absolutely sure. What I am sure about, if you have an accident between about November and about March in icy weather, and you don't have winter tyres on the vehicle (M+S tyres, more or less) the accident is your fault, no matter what happened.

Yes, there is a lot of truth in that, but I would care to expand on it. It is not so much that the smaller bubbles collect into fewer larger ones, although that may happen, as much as that the bubbles will all become smaller due to the higher pressure. This can cause bubbles that are lodged in "traps" in the lines to dislodge, and rise to the master cylinder. The factor "the air dissolves in the fluid" also plays a part. Maybe not all of the air, but some of it will go into solution at higher pressure. The chances are good that when it comes back out of solution when the higher pressure is released, it may do this in a part of the system from which it can then easily rise to the master cylinder to be vented. So my informant's opinion that the fluid should really be flushed with fresh fluid to remove the dissolved air can probably taken with a grain of salt. Whatever, I too have had success with tying off the lever overnight. I didn't flush the system again afterwards, and didn't have the feeling that the pressure point deteriorated with time, as my informant predicted it would. Maybe it did, and I didn't notice, maybe it didn't. I had useable brakes, and didn't delve into the issue any further.

It's not that complicated, actually. Look here. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Festigkeitsklasse

I'm not a physicist, but I'm incredibly intelligent, so... Firstly, the air in the brake system is, as far as I understand it, dissovled under pressure, not suspended. Therefore, the system is filled with liquid with practically no bubbles. The point is, liquid is incompressible. Bubbles (gas) are compressible. Gas dissolves in the liquid surrounding better under pressure. So holding the lever under pressure overnight can lead to the air bubbles dissolving in the fluid. Because the bubbles are dissolved, you will have a better function the next day. The next step (confirmed to me by someone who has done professional workshops on hydraulic brake systems and so on) would not be to think "it's all ok now", but rather to seize the opportunity to flush the system with fresh brake fluid to get rid of the dissolved air. The air was dissolved under pressure, and when the pressure is not a constant, the air will come out of solution and form bubbles again.

What it is about is "Kundenbindung", i.e. the manufacturer keeping contact with the customer. Don't get me wrong, I'm not up for that in any way. I buy the product, and when I want a new one, I'll contact the manufacturer off my own bat. So leave me alone and stop sending me "informative e-mails". That the gathering of such information can lead to "big brother" style surveillance is obvious, if the laws of the land allow that. Here in Germany, there are a number of hurdles to prevent that. Whatever, I don't like the idea that my car is constantly "phoning home" to tell the manufacturer where I am, but I don't see a global conspiracy in that. It is "only" the manufacturer trying to consolidate his contact to the customer. Bad enough, but not the end of the world.

I always thought metric is standard.

I've got one, but you can't have it. Seriously, though, I'm well impressed with how this issue has been solved. Everyone looking for a solution without worrying too much about who was or is in the wrong. Very pleasant. When I think about how such discussions sometimes develope in other forums I'm on, I'm very glad to be here.

Incidently, one of the founders of a PA company that I have done a lot of work for over the years used to have a Kawasaki Triple. Allegedly, he was able to claim it on his tax return as a "musical instrument". He actually did produce music and sound collages, and probably did record the bike and use the sound, but still. Well done, that man....

might have been this bloke. He apparently makes a habit of welding smaller motors together to make bigger ones, and does a lot of the work with a hacksaw and a file. https://www.youtube.com/@AllenMillyard