audiomick

Yes, I am considering swapping to see if it makes any difference. If it does, I will get some new relays. Thanks for the confirmation. I was already thinking that would be the one to take. The relays in my V11 are all the same, and all 5 pin. They are these: @Tomchri I haven't added another relay yet, but I'm considering doing exactly that very seriously.

I was at it again today with the charged battery. It showed just over 13V fresh off the charger, and still 12.6V or so after several rounds of activating the starter to measure things. I pulled the #4 relay to de-activate the ECU, and unplugged the fuel pump, so I could activate the starter without starting the motor every time. What I found was: Voltage across the battery didn't go under 10V. According to various reliable sources, that is ok. As mentioned, after all the measurements the battery was still delivering about 12.6V. I'm beginning to hope that it is still ok, and was just not fully charged. The charging system seems to be ok. Just over 13V at the battery at idle, and about 13.8V when revved up a bit. I didn't see more that just on 14V. That was a very quick measurement, as the bike was running in a closed garage, and I'm very careful about exhaust gases. Nevertheless, it looks ok, I think. At the contact on the starter for the solenoid, i.e. the blade connector, I was seeing about 9.6V. At the moment I don't really know where the other 3 and a bit Volts are going. I need to do some more thinking about resistors in series and the resulting voltage divider characteristics. Maybe have a chat to my colleague who really knows about electrical and electronic circuits. I did the Caig Deoxit business on the fuses. The relays got done on Monday. A further experiment might be to swap the #1 relay with one of the other ones, and see if that makes any difference. Anyway, I had the impression today that maybe the starting problem is cleared up. Up till now, 3 or 4 start attempts would always result in at least one with only a click instead of the starter firing up. Today I didn't have any failures. The bike is overdue for its bi-annual roadworthy inspection. I'm going to take it in next Tuesday for that. I probably wont do anything further until then. Maybe I'll just ride it a couple of times after that, and see how the battery holds up, and if the problem crops up again.

How could anyone do that to a Sport 1100?

You have to always assume that on-one else on the road has seen you.

They already have. I don't know how long it is likely to take, but I'm pretty sure Bernd has at least started thinking about that. As far as hosting the programme on a server goes, I wouldn't want that. That would require internet access in the garage, which I don't have. I think that would be a stopper for a relevant number of potential users.

Yes, but I was thinking more about the fork diameter.

Yes No, because docc is right (again...) so all the bases are covered. I don't have those bars, but according to the web-site, they are built so that they can be moved from above the triple-clamp to below in a matter of minutes. What I don't know is if they will fit all V11 Models, or only from the Le Mans onwards.

Very expensive, I know, but anyway.... https://shop.daes-mototec.com/de/Fahrwerk-7/Lenker/DAeS-Lenkerstummel-Kit-fuer-MOTO-GUZZI-V11-Le-Mans--alle-Mod--V11-Coppa-Italia---Scura---Naked-02-.html

No, definitely not. When it's hot, you have to keep pouring the water in. Yes, I find that with the leathers, too. My favourite at the moment is a very old pure cotton skivvy that I have. Because it is so old, it is very thin. The roll neck keeps the leather collar of the jacket off my skin, and the long sleeves help too. It absorbs the sweat (mostly), and if the jacket is open a bit it thereby helps keep cool, at least as long as I'm moving. The bonus is, the same combination is also good when it is slightly cool, i.e. good in the heat all afternoon, and in to the evening when it starts to cool down.

Bear in mind that Bernd isn't working on Guzzidiag in order to sell something. He is doing it because he is interested. He aims to keep it as simple and robust as possible, and only releases a new version when he is sure he has fixed some known bugs. You wont see "fantastic new features that nobody wants".

I don't think you need to be concerned. Remember, Guzzidiag is an executable file, and doesn't need installation. That means trying out a newer version won't disturb the previous installation, because it was never installed in that sense, it was only ever just executed. Leave the older version on the computer, get the new one and run it instead. If it doesn't work, the old one is still there. You can even put them both in the same folder on the computer. The one you click on is the one that will run.

Whereby "some" a very "dynamic" term is.

Poor Norge. It looks like it has had a hard life.

I searched for Caig here in Germany. Practically not available. The place I bought it from specialises in repairing and maintaining tube amplifiers.

100° F = 37.8° C = a normal summer day where I grew up in northern Victoria. For Melbourne, ok, a bit warm. I have to admit, northern Victoria isn't particularly humid, and I know that does make a difference. I'm not trying to be a smart arse, rather merely trying to show that I do know what those sort of temperatures mean. The hottest day that I know for sure how warm it was saw 46° C. I spent that day in the shade of a tree on the shore of a lake. I do own a vented textile jacket, but I don't really like it. Too sweaty. If I can manage it, I prefer the leather jacket. Even on the GTR 1000 in the high 30's. That bike funnels heat up from the motor on to the rider. Good in winter, hard work in traffic in the city on a warm day.

I spent a couple of relaxing hours in the garage today. The first task was "extracting" the starter circuit from the circuit diagramme out of the workshop manual. It is only a rough pencil drawing, but here it is for posterity: Having done the drawing, I had a bit of a poke around with the multimeter. No success in as much as I didn't find anything that looked like a problem. Still using the suspect battery, contact 30 of relay #1 showed the same voltage as the plus pole of the battery, as did the wire from contact 87 of that relay that plugs on to the starter motor to switch the solenoid. That was all without a load, i.e. with the relay not plugged in (for contact 30), or with the wire not plugged in to the starter. Theoretically, the voltage at the solenoid could be different if the wire were connected to the load. However, I've just had the starter completely apart, and it looks almost brand new inside, so I don't believe there is anything amiss there. I've got the suspect battery on the charger at the moment, and will put it back in on Wednesday and see how it behaves. I'm not confident that simply charging the battery will be the solution; I reckon the battery has probably done it's dash, but I'll give it one last chance.

We got both kinds, and the Beatles. The lady sings well.

Leather. Black, of course.

Well done, that man.

Even on your aeroplane?

It's not just the condition of the battery. It doesn't fit right. It is mounted with the battery poles to the left of the bike, with some "creative" wiring to make the connections. All safe, but I don't like it much. Any excuse to get it back to original.