docc

Works for me: https://en.tlm.nl/search-results-page/?q=Used cardan

Yes, indeed! ~38,000 miles/almost 60.000km and 8 1/2 years on the circuit breaker. I had tried the MAXI fuse soldered in line, but it, too, failed from the heat.

Sign me up for the bracket and a medallion set!

@OGGUZZI, I have been thinking that it may not be the lock cylinder, but the two "catches" that hold the cap to the underside of the filler neck. In that case, I wonder if pressing down on the cap and working the cylinder repeatedly might break it loose. Or, perhaps, give the cap a gentle, but abrupt, *rap* with a rubber mallet or plastic cased deadfall hammer.

Image shows wire grooming, @sp838's 3D printed medallion, as well as zip-tie fluid and very special Cable® GuzziStuff toolbox . . .

The OMRON we so long relied upon are NLA. The Pickers Components are presently our best option with the CIT running a close second.

Many find 0.006/0.008 a better set-up, so your intake was really not that far off. My sidestand wiring has a little zip-tie that gathers it, loosely, to the cover mount. I would love to see some 3D printed eagle medallions. Years ago, @sp838 made some with the Gambalunghino eagle.

The "Werle" looks to be 15 amps (NC) and 25 amps (NO). This should be adequate for all positions and the name implies it is German and the ratings should be reliable. I did not look up that Bosch data sheet, but 10/20 rated relays should be avoided in our V11. [Note that the early V11 Sports, 1999-2001, do not benefit from the added start relay of the later V11, yet require a true High Current relay in position #1. The presently available High Current relays are linked in the "Answer" ppost on page 5, preferably the Pickers Components, yet also the CIT:

Oooooh, yes . . . .

Truth. Especially for our V11 charging system, in my experience. Expecting our charging system to address an AGM (specifically the Odyssey PC545) when it is (well) below the 85% charging threshold (12.65v) is like expecting your date to be happy with you out dancing if you neglected to make her happy before going out . . .

You have a way to check throttle body balance? That could work a little magic for you......

Also, related just to the stator wiring: when the cover is off, we should always inspect those vulnerable yellow wires and consider a fresh "zip-tie" which is the sole strain relief on this design. Be very careful with the fiber "card" this attaches to, as it also gets very brittle. I learned that black zip-ties are more durable than the lucent and best quality is worth the few extra quid (or bucks, or lire).

For completeness, look carefully at where the two yellow wires are (supposed to be) attached to the windings . . .

I see that dolly is H-D specific. I recall someone here building a cradle specific to the V11 wide sump . . .

Perhaps you are not considering just the scissor jack in the first link: . . . but, instead combined with the "dolly" shown in the video:

Belt and suspenders . . .

Once restarted, also check that the tach is not erratic and the headlamps/brake light/horn work. This fault combination indicates a bad Relay #2 which also supplies the reference voltage for the charging system.

Always fun banter over "fast and faster." I would like to steer the topic back to @fastaussie's Ducati for sale. Where is the 916 listed? I am not sure I saw it on the Classic.com link. I was thinking that link was as a value reference...

We have a member here that was told by those folks that guzzidiag would ruin his ECU. The fellow was elated to learn how to interface with his V11 using guzzidiag and has done it now, numerous times. As have many of us, with no adverse effects. It can be challenging to get it to connect, sometimes. With your plugs suggesting an "imbalance", it seems prudent to address the throttle body balance next. IMO, there is no advantage to perform parts of the entire tune-up, but let's work what you are comfortable with, @Drahchir

At the very minimum, I would adjust the valves and balance the throttle bodies. Also, check carefully for any intake or exhaust leaks. Even very minor ones can cause trouble.

Violin tools. Absolutely maddening to use (certainly for this novice). The drill is to stab the little stick with the point of the s-curved tool and insert it through the narrow "f" hole on the violin's top. If the little stick (sound post) doesn't fall off instantly, you are to deftly turn it upright and stand it between the top and back inside the body at exactly the right spot in relation to the bridge, then extract the instrument. Since the sound post will fall off multiple times during these attempts, one gets better and better at holding the violin upside down, overhead and rolling it around until the little stick drops out. All while humming Vivaldi. Or maybe The Devil Went Down to Georgia.

Score! For ten points and the championship , those brass tools are meant to seat the violin sound post (seen in the foreground) between the violin's top and back, through the "F-hole." (Perhaps where the "proctology" comes in ) In just the exact spot in relation to the bridge. I can attest that this is a task equal to putting a peanut on a moving train with tweezers. While dancing a jig.

See, there? I knew y'all-boys could have some fun with this. For What It's Worth , my brother gave me the porkpie hat with a saxophone when I graduated DrCollege. Yet, no, they are not saxophone tools . . .

If there is a color faster than red, it must be silver . . .

I had some fun reading back through this great thread. I am definitely hanging out with the right crowd. So, worth a bump. Not automotive, but clues are included. What are these tools for?