docc

Three months (thirteen weeks) out, and Ken (the innkeeper) tells me there are four rooms (of 16) left at The Lodge at Tellico. Of the twenty-one years of this "South'n SpineRaid ", this is our sixteenth at this location. There are "reasons" we keep going back . . . Y'all come, now! Ya hear?

@nielsv11, Once that wet, it can be hard to know where a leak started. Perhaps clean up, apply a "foot powder" and go for a short ride (after ensuring these is enough oil in the box!). The powder will discolor at the source of the leak.

By "2005-up", this means CARC series?

For the archive:

Just pulled and discarded the two CIT I have been "testing" since October 2021 . . .

While these relays are shown to be 35 amp NO/ 20 amp NC, it is not specified whether that is "continuous current" or inrush. I suspect it is the inrush value. This specification, then, over-rates the relay's capacity for carrying continuous current (our application). Re-reading the data sheets for the Pickers Components and the CIT, I see the rating on the Pickers Components is "Resistive" (continuous) and the rating on the CIT is "switching" (inrush?) . . . I am more inclined to trust the Pickers Components over everything else currently available. edit: I see, now the "HKE" is 35 amps "switching capacity: "Switching capacity 35A " Also, I see no declaration of contact material (silver alloy being preferable).

The key difference is the "temporary" emphasis. Yes, common lubricants can help get rubber parts assembled, but may also facilitate their coming back apart because they are not "temporary." In that regard isopropyl ("rubbing") alcohol can be a solution as it is "slippery when wet", but evaporates quickly. The P-80 is the engineered solution.

I recently got my drop-top coupé back from an extensive, fifteen week, repair. The absence caused me some interest in all of your comments and experiences. Just back from a weekend drive of nearly 200 miles/ 322km, I so enjoyed the engagement offered by the top-down experience. At times, a pungent aroma would fill the cabin and I would look about for the fresh-mown hay field; same sensory intensity crossing creeks and rivers on my way. Much like what we know of motorcycling. In fairness, I wore an earplug in the inboard ear for much of the trip as the buffeting can be annoying. Also, the option of top up and A/C is ever present and available. Yet, all-in-all, I always come away thinking (and I quote from the Clint Eastwood movie Gran Torino), "Ain't she sweet?"

The concept of "bikini" comes to mind . . .

How extraordinary our forum, and very specifically @audiomick came through on this matter!

Short answer: state of tune. FWIW, I gradually roll the throttle open while cranking and release it when it starts. When hot, I use no throttle or "high idle setting" and it catches instantly. This start was a little slow for mySport, but it is due a "Decent Tune-up" and, most especially, fresh sparkplugs.

What adhesive do you recommend, considering the heat cycling there along with the road spray/ leading edge location? edit: the heat got me wondering if the bracket could be designed to hold the wiring off of the timing chest surface . . .

True and actual rubber assembly lube: https://www.amazon.com/IPC-Emulsion-Temporary-Assembly-Lubricant/dp/B008AYUQVG

I mean, if you are going to sport, Sport Naked . . .

Welldone, @O2 V11!

This got me thinking about how much our Texas members > RIDE >> Maybe trying to " . . . lose those Lone Star Blues . . . " (How many celebrity "stars" do you see in this video?)

Do not miss this talent . . .

Tidy little bracket! Of the four Eagle medallions, only the one on the alternator cover has a slight curve to it? The factory aluminum one can be bowed a bit to fit. Can yours be heated and similarly bowed?

Keep an (infrared) eye on that nefarious fuse. And also the relays, especially #5 (the furthest back). Using the "Best Relay" is well indicated for reliability.

FWIW, just adding "more fuel" has been shown to be the wrong path for the V11, for various reasons. More success has been achieved unplugging the PC and making certain all of the tuning parameters are correct.

google "heated pxnxs gourd" and your search engine parameters could be permanently altered . . .

These are seen on the early Sport wiring diagram as #44: "Warning light connectors" and came to the U.S.A. with nothing connected to them. Perhaps the Euro bikes got the "heated gourd." Apparently the Genuine Article came with a Warning Light. As it well should !

No mention of throttle body balance (?) Tapping on the injector may have simply affected the electrical connection. Perhaps worth treating all the electrical connections with something like (there is nothing like) Caig DeOxit® . . .

@Dragonknee, what specifically has determined it is an injector problem?