docc

I know turning 137,000 miles doesn't seem like much to celebrate. But I'm celebrating, anyway. ( I intended this to be my 20,000th post, but I used that to reference fixing a broken link that @mikev had pointed out. As it should be, I reckon! )

Thanks! Done:

My original 2000 V11 Sport external fuel pump measures 111mm long by 55mm diameter (across the body where it mounts). The fuel pump I got from MG Cycle ("replacement for Bosch"/ "Quantum") is 112mm long (body between hose connections) and 52mm diameter. Three years ago, it was $55US, before shipping/taxes. I never installed it after I found my fuel pump issue was relay related. [edit: I see the price has not changed ($54.56US). There are no stampings or markings on the part and I see nothing on the website.] Here is where I got the "Quantum" name: https://www.highflowfuel.com/fuel-pump-oem-replacement-hfp-603-qfs/ [edit #2: Flow Rate: 190LPH; I could not find a flow specification for the Moto Guzzi external pump.]

Not sure whether or not that is high raise for your "Moderator" . . . Oh yeah, oh yeah, uh-oh What can you do? What can you do? With a brat like that always on your back What can you lose?

I ask because I have rebuilt my clutch master cylinder. Twice. The spring inside can fracture, sometimes into multiple parts . . .

In addition to bleeding the clutch, assess the clutch lever travel. Is there excessive "play" in the lever travel before engagement?

Seems that the OP, @Drahchir, has moved on to his idle issues, hence the change of the topic name. In that regard: A new map? A Power Commander? No. Really: A "Decent Tune-up."

The external shift mechanism and "connector rod" should be seen to. Make sure the foot lever is not striking the lower extension of the Frame Side Plate. That would give a "dead feel" trying to get into first. Once, I did fail to seat one of the cir-clips on one of the two shafts for the toothed gears of the shift plate. Yet, the outcome was that the Neutral Light would not extinguish, rather than difficulty getting into first. Again, this is most likely when the foot lever hits the Frame Side Plate on the downstroke into first gear.

Navasota Spine Raid has a nice ring to it !

Dark Art dragged into the light . . . --->

Just to follow up, when you install the Chuck/Scud SuperSpring, be certain to take time and perform the Lucky Phil "Shift Improvement" . . . And, be sure to clean, shim, grease and adjust the Rube Goldberg external shift mechanism . . .

Not sure of @activpop's motivation, but there is a beautiful GarWood at 2:09-2:14 to contribute to the happy theme . . .

One aspect that is difficult to interpret is the amount of metal on the drain magnet in 50-100 miles versus what we expect at the typical change interval (12,000 miles?). If we see 12,000 miles worth of wear in a very short time, that could be telling. Also, if the hardening of the gear teeth has been damaged from overheating, the wear may accelerate (more and more debris at short intervals). This may be detectable without fully changing the oil every time, but inspecting and cleaning the drain magnet routinely. Certainly, if the size and nature of the debris changes from the typical "filings" to larger pieces and flakes, the damage to the engagement surfaces would be suspect . . .

Not a bad call. The clutch is a deep dive. I was thinking it might be worth strapping the clutch lever to the grip and administering some judicious purcussive intervention to the slave cylinder (beat on it). Nothing lost by leaving it strapped overnight and tapping on the slave again . . .

Thanks for the clarification. When my clutch "didn't work", it would not engage.

Just to clarify, the clutch will not disengage so that the bike rolls freely or the clutch does not engage such that the bike can transmit the engine's force through the gearbox?

My TIMEX "is still ticking" . . .

It should be noted this SuperSpring is available nowhere else. It was specifically and expertly designed and tested by our treasured member @Chuck and diligently produced and stocked by @Scud (The Keeper of the Springs ). The entire re-engineering backstory is on the 59 pages of this thread. Accept no substitutes.

"Operators are standing by" . . .

Removing the slave cylinder is best done with the swingarm removed. What "clutch issues" are you trouble shooting?

Sadly, @Bjorn's outstanding images have been lost to the ether. Removing the the clutch slave cylinder is best achieved with the swingarm removed. Yet, it begs the question, "Why are you removing the slave cylinder, @JGP?" View of the rear of the gearbox with the swingarm out (clutch slave at 8:00 from the red circled main electrical ground):

The only time I have had relay failure (OMRON, even) was from a combined regulator + stator wire failures that (apparently) were throwing some nasty voltage spikes. Have a close look at the regulator voltages and visually inspect the yellow wiring at the stator under the "alternator cover" . . .

Just for fun, besides the misspelling (and I don't mean PORBETTI for BORLETTI ). Poor Betty . . .

That would be Vague-liar ®

No other symptoms that could implicate Relay #2 (headlight / horn/ brake light )?