docc

Agreed, LuckyPhil. The inner bearing (12) has to be pulled and replaced to change that washer. What is wrong with the inner washer that it needs replacing, @aermacchi250 ?

In this vicinity, there are more "speed trailers" being set-up to inform the posted limit and your speed in order to limit face-to-face traffic stops. Our state agency has even been instructed to "park prominently as a deterrent, but avoid stops." Last weekend, a warning trailer even wagged blue lights at me. Passing another later in the day (in another jurisdiction) I found a gray, unmarked pursuit vehicle just over the hill ready to say, "We told you so."

" . . . embedded in the Item 11 (flexible coupling disc), 12 (Ring), and 13 (Flange) assembly . . ." This is my recollection. So, not visible with the wheel off. Part of the "cush drive."

Good news, guzziart! Hey, mine's lasted almost ten years! (I bet yours is prettier . . . )

Trying to clean up my act . . .

Those things, especially new, are mighty stiff going on. Use P-80 Emulsion Temporary Rubber Assembly Lubricant . . .

Utilizing the existing power cable from the 550, without fishing an entire new harness along the Sport's frame, meant cutting it off and splicing on the female AMP connector. Probably the dicey part. "CLAMP!" Mount shown disconnected/removed: Power jack sealed up and tucked away nicely. I realize it looks like a ten pound fire extinguisher next to a basketball in this view, but the clutch reservoir looks like a five gallon bucket . . . I did all this to a harness ordered individually to make sure I could get it right. I've ordered the 595LM now and hope to have it next week.

Nicely done, KINDOY! What a perfect "adapter." My posts are probably more about the power connection to remove my mount cleanly. I'm looking for the power lead on the 595LM mount to be about 9"/23cm: Drilled and tapped the RAM "post&ball" for a flat head M4x.7 screw (that came out of the 550 mount), sized the screw to stand off just enough to slide the female connector on securely.

You guys did an awesome job of working through the RAM steering stem mount. Welldone! I have been using the one shown above to mount my GPS offset (eccentric? ) to the left. Saying goodbye to me twelve year old 550 ZUMO. That's pretty impressive age for any electronics, especially seeing the hard duty and weather of navigating 60,000 miles/100,000 km on my Sport in all conditions, roads, and weather. The replacement mount for the Garmin 595LM ZUMO is hard wired to an absurd octopus of a harness with four extra audio plugs and a stupid amount of wiring. I only need 12v power and want to able to remove both the device and the mount when not needed (98% of the time) leaving the Sport cockpit clean. Planning to remove everything right of the AMP connector: The new mount (as well as the new device) are much trimmer than the old 550: Now to take the side cutters to a perfectly good, brandy-new harness . . .

@tony.wh, is there something actually wrong with yours?

Here it is:

I believe it was @Pressureangle that found a source for these, what we often call "U-joints") in Montreal, Canada. They were quite *interesting* to deal with, but did actually supply me with two Della Concordia CR 15/22x50,2 "crosses." Let me see if I can find that thread where my drive shaft "came from together" . . . [edit: yep, here is thread "Drive Shaft Failure", but no U-joint reference. I'll look further for that. Still, @tony.wh, maybe something helpful looking through this thread:

Pretty sure this topic belongs in "How to . . ." I'll be moving it after I make this post. Having taken my tank off this morning for filter changes, I thought how nice it would be to have a functional manual fuel tap /petcock. Pretty inelegant to apply slip-joint pliers, even through a leather pad, to accomplish fuel shut off. I did note that my tap needs almost an extra half of a flat to close fully. So, only about 1/12 of a turn. Right annoying. Thanks, again, Lucky Phil!

Wrapped about 90% my 115,000 mile service (5,000 oil/filter/tune-up and 12,000 mile tank-off fuel and air filters). Fork oil change remains. Learned a few things and will try to post them in the right places. Rolled about 150 miles for a shake down ride. Over 90ºF/30ºC here today, so had a nice little picnic at a lovely spot nearby, Berlin Spring . . .

Sounds like good results and your V11 made better with every step. Still recalling a range based upon 3.6º, went back to the Workshop Manual and see that the 3.2-3.6º (4.90mV-5.32mV) "using the adjustment screw" (without the throttle rod) in the "Carburation Procedure" Section I, Page 52. The next step, Page 54, "Rules for Carburation, Regulation and Adjustment" then instructs to use the throttle rod to achieve 3.6º+/-0.5º (5.10mV-5.38mV). Seems a convoluted procedure, but we have derived several refinements to the early Workshop Procedure through "Beta testing." Of note, is that opening the throttle plates to get idle speed is more important than CO and the air screws. If you had to open your air screws more than a full turn to get your target idle, opening the throttle plates to 3.6º my make her even happier. Welldone, man! Thanks for posting and showing such perseverance!

I had to look that up (been a while since watching Dr. No) "The Dragon of Crab Key" . . . I was pretty young when Dr. No came out, but there are things about it I do remember . . .

Thanks for letting us know. This makes me look even more forward to "Greenie Coming Up . . ." as I know your friends will be there with you. Hang in there, friend.

Wut th' ha'yle WUZ that?

They just look so much more exotic than that!

Y'all boys are good *sports*! Thanks for tolerating my mirror spoof. Here is my actual set-up (early CRG barends with complicated machined attachment to the factory Sport clip-on weights): Yeah, it's wide, but its low. Worthy of a proper Blues Bassman. And bogus poet . . .

Got my chit, right there! But I'll be buying you one right back!

BTW, the idle setting is in the early V11 Workshop Manual as "Carburation Procedure," Section I - page 52: "Adjust the throttle bodies using the adjustment screw until bringing the idle speed opening to 3,2º-3,6º;" A rather long time ago, someone derived a conversion table to mV: 490mV- 532mV is what is in my notes. Easy enough to confirm this now with a breakout harness, quality DVOM and guzzidiag. I understand using the mechanical synch method and preset idle "target" mV/ degrees of opening. But if your bike starts and runs, the idle spec is the least worry. Get everything else right and put it where it is happy for the riding condition (within reason and range). Please realize the "450 mV" posting was discovered as a transposition and should have been "540 mV." Even this is not an exact spec, but a starting point, or target value.

All very welldone, Sir! Re: the 6/8 valves: a resounding "yes", IMO. Pretty sure this is referred to as the "World Setting." (0.006"/0.008" = 0,15mm/0,20mm) FWIW, if the air screws have to be set very much differently (>1/4 turn), there is likely a subtle air leak to track down. The rubber intakes are rarely the trouble even though they develop visible cracking.

That's funny, man. I know those guys and when I saw you tag onto them, I thought, "Sheeee-it!" (We really do say it like that when we're up in the mountains. Inside our helmet where no one can actually hear. )

Hey, ya know, there is nothing quite like a morning climb on the foggy western slope of the Cherohala Skyway toward North Carolina, digging on the Sport's thrum when, suddenly-with-no-warning, four (4!!!!) rather lightly muffled V11 come ROARING past! -...... It was like being eaten by fire breathing dragons and strafed by a squadron of P-51 Mustangs all at once. I still tremble a bit at the surprise and delight . . .