docc

Seems I have Starter Relay (#1) trouble after running the headlamp current back through the relay stack. Could be connectivity. Could be that even a High Current OMRON Best Relay will only last so long when it ain't "Livin' Easy." Trying to figure out why my tach is not affected; something to do with the way the Speedhut is fed. But it is definitely not the VintageCars LED unit failing.

Interesting you guys have both been here about the same time. We had a much testier time here before that. Muuuuuuch better these days, all around, IMO. It's easy to agree that I like it better here (everywhere?) when we can all ease up. It's also easy to agree that it's nice to have all the pertinent parameters on a problem before we all dive in the problem solving (that we do seem to love so much). Trouble with that is there are now so many V11 that the present owner may not have complete knowledge on what has been changed or that any one of us might not realize a particular change is an important, even crucial, part of the puzzle. Since there really is nowhere else in the world that a V11 owner can get a solid education and reliable help to keep these beasts on the fly, I do hope anyone coming here will get a feeling of genuine support and camaraderie. On this, I believe we excel (especially in the web-world).

Dang! 203 Euro? That is just the little pad or includes the hard shell seat cover?

Thank you, Meinolf, for the excellence and sharing your work! What is the version of your map in the link above?

Thanks, LowRyter! Yeah, The Lodge at Tellico has been our digs for the last ten years. The innkeepers, Walt&Anna, are wonderful and the place really suits our activities. Not the least of which is the enclosed garage space (worth the extra ten bucks to reserve a space!). There are some other places to stay or camp around the area, as well.

That is so fabulous! Thank you, ScooRoo! What astounding history brought together to inform and encourage and motivate . . . Claudio Torri !

Twin AH inquired about routes from Vancouver to the South'n Spine Raid . . . I know y'all boys will help him out with that . . . S'xteenth South'n Spine Raid Weekend After (US) Labor Day (September 11-13, 2020) Tellico Plains, Tennessee, USA "Get there. Bring tools."

Looks as if it is time for a new thread: S'xteenth South'n SpineRaid . . .

Heh, well, that was a scientific event to test just how cold is the cliche “stone cold” we’ve all heard the motor must be in order to adjust the valves. Turns out, letting it sit about 45 minutes is all it takes for the valve lash to return to “stone cold” specs.

A man after a silver RedFrame . . . ("Let's ask the other inmates on the ward if we're really crazy . . ." )

Yeah, that is the "approximate" TPS mv at "some" idle. That procedure has been much improved and refined over these many years and many contributors . . .

Not sure why, but this unit has hesitated to come on a few times at start-up for a moment or two. I am running power back through the two front relays instead of a dedicated power/ground, but I didn't see any other signs of relay failure. Just inspected the connections in the bucket and all seems fine. I decided to take an IR heat reading on the LED unit's base after three minutes on hi-beam. Hottest spots I found were 100ºF/ 38ºC. I thought that very acceptable.

Cool, Shaun! Congratulations! That forward facing barb on the regulator is open; no hose.

Not sure it is my place to clarify, but . . . Chuck's design, built by Scud's choice of spring maker, was not "$200." That is the recent quote po18guy got from an aircraft supplier in the PNW/USA. That looks (to me) to be a "go away price." Whether Scud chooses to use the last spring maker (took them twice to get it right) or another, IDK. But, AFAIK, the $200/spring maker in the PNW is not the route of choice. Check my work, and correct me if I am wrong. Just hoping to quell the confusion.

So, I can confirm that staying in gear with the clutch disengaged is what is taught by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. I instructed their curricula for five years and was a site administrator. In any other manual transmission, I have always slipped out of gear at stops. The apparent wear and issues with my Sport's gearbox input hub, and seeing how tiny the "throw-out bearing" actually is (!), has the Sport slipped into neutral at stops now. Whether bike or cage, it is advisable to "leave yourself an out" by not pulling up too closely to the vehicle ahead. Whether you can use that space depends on many factors, but largely our awareness to incoming threats (including those from behind). "Keep your head on a swivel. Don't lock your knees."

+1: be kind to your input hub and slip into N at stops with the clutch released. Learned this the hard way . . .

Even on a routine basis, these are really hard to turn. Some of us use ChannelLocks (slip-joint pliers) and some padding (like leather) to turn the things. MAybe drizzle something penetrating ("Ed'sRed!") and begin with gradual back and forth motions.

There is a lock nut, Gary, so no need to threadlock, just lubricate to protect from corrosion down there (maybe a light coat of water proof grease). There is a thread much later than this where it was determined the pins can probably be set the same, bottomed lightly, and turned back slightly to allow a tiny freeplay on the bearings.

A “south’n” (USA) thang...

Now, this whole business of sitting on bikes naked can be very revealing In more ways than one! Oh! Wait! Sit on a "Tonti naked" or sit on a "naked Tonti?' (the moderator is gonna hunt me down for this, I know . . .)

The bodywork lines look fabulous, LuckyPhil! Welldone! What will be for airbox? Pods?

Oh! When I saw that image of those sweet Guzzi, I thought, "Wow, milar has some cool buddies. Look at what they ride!" Now that we that is your stable, I am jealous! Nice selection!

Disclaimer! The squeamish should avert their eyes! Now, for one, this is on an early Sport, so there "may be" variations in the wiring colors. Still, the connectors are likely same or similar. From the wiring diagram, it appears the left switchgear has ten wires, so the swithgear connector looks to be the larger AMP connector. Check my work, y'all!

@p018guy - let me see if I can locate an image of the left side connectors under the tank. Perhaps we can discern which is the switchgear. Pretty sure they are "AMP" connectors. I'm kind of embarrassed that I can't speak to how to use "notifications." I've just never used them since I pretty much look at everything. Hopefully, someone adeptat that will comment . . . Otherwise, +1 on gstallons suggesting the tank should be pulled with forethought. And, I would add, a plan for other things to see to while it is off. To wit: