docc

Those look great for clamps (which are hard to apply with the the factory set-up.) It is always cramped to get a tool onto the terminal fasteners, but I'm thinking yours are hex drive and a 90º hex key slips into the space? Still, a flash of old inner tube over the grounded corner of the ECU seems an easy precaution to an unintended short to critical electronics . . .

I would be inclined to say, "Yes, too soon" for a modification until the culprit(s) can be apprehended. Then the LuckyPhil/Chook-made shift extender would be icing on the cake! I should have mentioned to remove the pivot bolt (after taking off the lock nut on the inboard side) and wire brush the rust from it and give a good coat of waterproof grease. I have also used a "bottle" or bore brush to clean out where the pivot bolt goes through. Finally, many have discovered improved shifting changing to a lube like RedLine Shockproof®. We have seen some great outcomes with shift issues never going inside the gearbox or even pulling the shift plate.

I ran across this post on the recall from 2004 with a helpful image: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/1916-v11-recall/&do=findComment&comment=17900

I know we've discussed bike lifts before, but some things bear repeating . . .

Hi, Bigwig! You've come to the right place to get the most out of your wonderful V11! The shifter is a real Rube Goldberg affair that dos take patience and proper fettling. Be sure the the connecting rod is adjusted to align the arms of the gearbox and the shfter parallel and all the fasteners are tight. Use the top hole in the shifter arm. See that the shifter does not strike the frame sideplate on the down stroke. Also, the pivot bolt should be set where the is smooth rotation of the shifter, but no slop. There is a lock nut on the inboard of the subframe where the pivot bolt screws in. Mine is loose enough that I shim it with a thin washer.

While you're in there, see to those numerous leak points (are there eight? ), and be sure to stake that input hub with a fresh "safety washer." After I rebuilt my clutch, I got to squeeze the lever on footgoose's RAM. So sweet, light, and buttery!

Another craigsinclair post with a link to images of the pushrod and button: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19621-shifting-woes/&do=findComment&comment=215047https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19621-shifting-woes/&do=findComment&comment=215047https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19621-shifting-woes/&do=findComment&comment=215047

Alright, here we go. Check out this thread by craigsinclair. That is linked in the RAM conversion discussion in the thread "Sticking Clutch." The discussion is on pages 2-4 and the link is to a post by footgoose with some actual dimensions.

I wonder if Rolf Halvorsen, in Norway, has any of this? You might PM him and ask . . .

There are a couple pages of discussion on this, with images as I recall, in my Sticking Clutch thread. I’ll try and track it down this evening.

All good, Pete! II though the shipping time acceptable and no worries. My office staff thought me a little off when it came and me hopping about, waving the package around all giddy . . . Best shipping and tracking I ever had was from Russia, of all places.

Curtis Harper, Harper's Moto Guzzi, Missourri, USA , sourced a pair of Koyo for me. Brembo pads coming from MGCycle in Wisconsin. Might skip the leaky clutch slave for now, but my rear brake rotor is a millimeter under the wear spec. I have all the parts to replace that, so "should" . . . Just "maintenance" . . .

In "How to . . ." Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts

Two weeks to the mid-south States from "The Arse End of Nowhere." Pretty darn good! Really jazzed about having this in my greasy little ham-fisted, knuckle-draggin' hands. For now, it is safe and a delightful addition to my cocktail table. Thanks, again, Pete!!

Just got my Genuine MotoModa P.Roper Plate today! At 110,590 miles, I figure I better get it installed before I sleep or eat again.

Yeah, that's how I ended up with these "Federal Mogul" branded "National" and made in China. Maybe 20,000 miles is "not too bad" (bad, but not too bad) for the brake side rear bearing, but 40k would be better!

Trying to get a couple of the Guzzi dealers to tell me who makes their available bearings and where they are from. Last Timken we saw were Chinese. Same with the Federal Mogul that just played up.

Ah, okay. I thought my initial post was kinda busy and went some different directions. But that's what inspection during maintenance can do . . . Clutch reservoir looks low. Closer inspection reveals the replacement slave cylinder is weeping. Now, I am too. I suppose I can install my original while waiting for bearings and brake pads . . .

Condition those "new" Odyssey, y'all!

Getting ready for a ride to the Appalachians in a month and found a weak rear Pirelli GT. They are lasting about 3500 miles for me; right at average for my 30 rear tires. (I get 3 rear : 4 front). Trying to follow my own advice (Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist in FAQ) , I found my Brembo rear pads ready for a change (10,111 miles/ 16.300 km). Inboard more than outboard, which tells me the pistons need cleaned, equalized, pin polished and lubed, and fluid bled. The brake side rear wheel bearing was also played up. Fourth one on that side. Only the third on the drive side, which felt okay, but my trusted friend, Josh, who found the bad bearing says, "Change them both." I believe in this guy! The last bearings were made in China and lasted 1/2 as long as the OEM, Euro-made stuff. I'm trying to source better made bearings. So . . . when that tire needs changed, folks: Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist!

And you are confident Relay#2 is the best it can be?

The "one turn out" (+/-) is in the "Decent Tune-up" apparently to compensate for vagueries in the stock map (and maybe clapped-out throttle bodies like mine), while Meinolf's Map & Method is evidently a much more accurate and well designed way to to tune that does not need the air bleeds. I'll have to try it that way someday.

All 1999-2001 Sport and Rosso Mandello maps should be identical. The map ID number is visible on guzzidiag, but will not reflect if the map has been altered. Meinolf has done the finest job of creating the cleanest V11 map ever.

How about this one in Fileshare, posted by MartyNZ: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19609-ecu-bin-maps/&do=findComment&comment=233775

So, would your gizmo display selected guzzidiag parameters (like voltage, engine temperature)?