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Everything posted by docc
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Reminds me of @gstallons's saying, "Use a test light." The time has come to test light new fuses before installation . . .
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So, just some musings as EICMA 2024 comes to a close. First, thanks to everyone here who has shared images and videos. Most especially our Man on the Scene, @v11_meticcio ! In particolare il nostro uomo sulla scena, @v11_meticcio ! While Moto Guzzi, predictably, did not offer anything new, they did have a spacious and well appointed display. I recall the introduction of the entirely new V85TT as a single bike in a faux desert scene complete with a big plastic camel. Not even a bored-looking girl on the sand. FWIW, I like the Guzzi line. I think it has a lot to offer the broader audience without becoming a clone of the greater market. I see what looks like some nice fit and finish and an admirable effort to retain brand identity. I see Piaggio's "Travel" assignment for Moto Guzzi's brand purpose coming through, yet with a lot of very approachable models for the younger riders as well as those of us that may consider a smaller displacement, lighter and smaller bike at some point. Sure, I am a little disappointed the "V7 Sport" moniker got pasted to a cooking V7 even though I appreciate the brake an fork improvements. Maybe some clip-ons and more "V7 Racer" style rear-sets would have been in order. Without the rubber footpegs that hardly say "Sport." That said, I do like the light blue V7Sport. It has a lot of nice touches and details, IMO . . . I particularly like the V100 Mandello in rosso/nero with the winglets veiled by the graphics. Nice looking bike with the gold accents. "Wind Tunnel ", baby! https://www.motoguzzi.com/en_EN/landing-page/v100mandello-wind-tunnel/
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I think it is a cruel hoax to make the fuse link harder to see. That is, after all, what they were designed for. Not counting all of the 30 amp "charging" fuses mySport burned, melted, or charred, I have only "blown" one fuse. It was because of a loose connection on the battery positive side. Seems @LowRyter's new fuse failure is an all too common example of poor quality control in new parts and a seemingly unavoidable state of affairs in the modern supply system. I understand this is a huge impediment to updating the world's nuclear energy establishments. The chance that a defective component, or system, could be installed in the place of a known working component/system is a dire concern in the aircraft industry, yet ever more so in the nuclear arena.
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What is the rationale behind these new opaque fuse bodies instead of the older clear bodies that allowed easy visual inspection of the fuse link?
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Between the cable attachment and the adjustable contact cam, the high idle mechanism on the bottom of the right throttle body has a lot of adjustability . . .
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Yah, I thought about that comparison. If power-to-weight ratio could be an indicator, the GB is about 75% that of the V11 and that new (heavy) RE 650 is about half. Not sure what all makes this new Enfield so much heavier, but apparently it is. One of the reviewers said, "The Indians like their metal!"
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@mikev, the 2000 Sport has a rather soft spring (springs, if you also consider the forks). The original Sachs spring is probably good for a 165 pound rider (in gear) with no luggage or racks. Have you "checked your sags?" If the sag is excessive, it cannot be properly corrected by simply cranking up the preload or increasing the damping.
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All that corrosion around the slave could simply be from the bleeder. Or from some prior attempt to bleed it. Might consider cleaning it up and using Teflon tape on the bleeder. After decades (literally now) of discussion over the front U-joint, best access looks to be from the front, coming across the U-joint guard through the shaft tunnel in the swingarm, and downward onto the Zerk (Zerk pointing upward, with the swingarm lowered) using an adjustable angle tip at 90ยบ-ish . . . Otherwise, "You know. Snake Farm " . . .
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I have always thought the frame side plates were cast. Not sure if this image helps make that discernible . . .
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Agreed, Scud, the frame side plates are aluminum. [housekeeping note: moved this topic to 24/7 V11 for better viewing and archiving.]
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Struggling to separate the two halves of the drive shaft
docc replied to Molly's topic in Technical Topics
This service item cannot be overstressed! Neglect the right, outboard bevel drive needle bearing cage (inboard of the swingarm) to the demise of the sealing nose of your crown wheel . . . Critical maintenance: -
Struggling to separate the two halves of the drive shaft
docc replied to Molly's topic in Technical Topics
@Molly, and all-y'all, it occurs to me to suggest inspecting, cleaning, and greasing the torque reaction rod pivot bolts (especially the forward, frame side) . . . . . . and shock pivot bolts (especially the lower at the swingarm) . . . As well as the shift lever pivot bolt: -
Struggling to separate the two halves of the drive shaft
docc replied to Molly's topic in Technical Topics
I noticed how rusty the surfaces of the swingarm bearings are, as well. Life in the salt air of the Manx Sea, @Molly ? -
Struggling to separate the two halves of the drive shaft
docc replied to Molly's topic in Technical Topics
Yah, I noticed the O-ring is encapsulated in the rust . . . -
Struggling to separate the two halves of the drive shaft
docc replied to Molly's topic in Technical Topics
I read somewhere that a mix of 1/2 acetone + 1/2 automatic transmission fluid is a potent penetrating oil. Drizzle, heat, wait, repeat (maybe add a little vibration/percussion) while leaving the contraption in that tension state . . . perhaps, alternate with striking it into compression . . . Once apart, there is an O-ring in there that will need renewing.