docc

I just saw those three B.A.T. cars at The Frist Museum in Nashville. A-B-S-O-L-U-T-E-L-Y S-T-U-N-N-I-N-G !!!!

You're in luck . . . I know a guy not far from you that has gotten one or two V11s started over the years . . .

Parts marked "LMT-S" (LeMans Tenni/Scura) 2001-2002:Clutch cpl. GU 01080140 Clutch disc GU 01084440 Disc GU 01081940 Belleville spring GU 01084040 Flywheel GU 01067040 (Standard 2-disc flywheel cpl. "LM-SN" GU 04067000, LeMans/SportNaked) Chain ring cpl. GU 01068040 Pin GU 01067540 Spacer GU 01067640 Thanks, Camn! So the part number for the Tenni/Scura flywheel and the earlier Rosso Mandello are the same: GU 01 06 70 40 This is not to say that they may have been sourced differently, but only that the part number is the same.

Is that "bigger than a bread box?"

I keep coming back to Richard Widman's work on motor lubricants as it appears very well referenced (33 page .pdf): http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html I didn't see anything in it specifically on this heat transfer business. It makes me want to BlueTooth the guzziadiag "dashboard" where I could watch head temperature real time. Unfortunately, the V11 does not actually measure oil temperature. That is usually done with a sump stick (kinda hard to see on the fly! ) Penrite's .pdf (posted by MartyNZ) about the relationship of ZDDP and leaded fuels is also compelling. I, too, would like it if Gene Berg's observations were better documented/ showed some data.

I wonder how this compares to later, Brembo-made, 1100Sport-i and V11 wheels?

Seems it's reminiscent of a certain era roadrace bike? Lot's of folks find it appealing, and it certainly works together as a package!

Pretty hard to see on the bike, yeah? I'll add a link to the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist.

As I go over my 100,000+ mile Sport, I'm trying to share what I find and give everyone a chance to look their V11 over for some possible issues. We've discussed a lot of the these things in the distant past. For instance, while addressing my regulator case grounds, I noticed one of the oil cooler lines had found a new place to saw into the timing chest. I had added quite a few strategically placed "Zip-ties" as rub guards, but needed to add a couple more. Some of the older ones are getting quite thin. Not every V11 has the lines routed like mine, apparently, but they are worth inspecting regularly and preventing them from developing a leak. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15645&p=172630

Shameless cross post: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19689&p=215670

Okay, so, again, how to tell if the factory marks are (one tooth) off?

More sick zinc chromate fixation. Maybe it's the fumes . . . One with the Gambalunga (predecessor to the Gambalunghino, basis for the Marabese V11 design): And a pic showing how elusive the zinc chromate is to photograph: Thanks to this site: http://www.ilsecoloxix.it/Facet/print/Uuid/c7ebc8c2-3ad4-11dd-8d9d-0003badbebe4/Al_via_il_motoradunodei_Guzzisti_Liguri_motoraduno.xml

I do love round-fins, but that rear section looks a bit chunky to my eyes. After reading interviews with the V11 designer, Luciano Marabese, I understand his determination to keep the (rather large) V11 tail section: it is reminiscent of the Gambalunghino he penned the V11 from. Looking at a way to "slim" the tail on my Sport. Hope Luciano M. will be okay with it . . .

I'll bite . . . it's cold and nasty out here, too! After using up about 40 tires on the Sport, I do really like the Pirelli Anget GT. Others have said the same, but there are so many great tires out there now in these sizes. A couple other considerations for you: your LongFrame 2002 has a 5.5 inch rear rim and was delivered with a 180. *Some* like running a 170 instead. *Some* don't. Not long ago, Scud proposed using a "sportier" front so both tires wore out at the same time. I like the idea, but haven't tested it yet. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19602&p=213136 There may be only a few things on The Good Earth that feel better than a full set of fresh tires on your favorite motorcycle!

Where I live, I've got til about March to learn as much as I can about oil and tires . . . The heat transfer observation is interesting stuff, but not sure how I can "test" it effectively. I think we (might) agree that an engine can run too cool as well as too hot.

I re-sprung both ends. I'm about 185 pounds in full riding gear . . . (*these days* - "thanks for noticing " . . . ) I went a little stiff on the rear Öhlins spring since I always have the Teknos packed with tools and beer and a plug kit with air compressor and beer, and jumper cables and beer. Your suspension company should question you on your weight, gear, luggage, and riding style before recommending the spring rate. Traxxion Dynamics nailed my fork springs first time (cheap and easy improvement) while Andy York pinned down my Öhlins at the time. It was, truly, the final solution. You'll be thrilled with the change.

Unfortunately, it's the spring rates (especially the rear) that affect this the most. I run 40/35 psi rear/front, but changed my springs years ago and set the sags. That solved the weave entirely. The smaller 160 could allow your Sport to settle to the rear slighty more. It's really all about the springs and sags. That part number under the triple is hard to see, but the earliest triples were, reportedly 1/2 degree steeper and these V11 are going to be harder to stabilize. I remember your Sport having the early finned steel exhaust flanges which makes me wonder if it's in the early triple clamp range . . .

With my RedFrame, I find that the rounder profile of the 160 is less likely to weave at high speed than the narrower contact patch of the more "pinched" 170. Same for tires built with a rounder profile. (The original equipment Pirelli Dragon Corsa on the early Sports were somewhat more "triangular" and contributed to the weave). LowRyter, your Sport may have the earliest triple clamps that really contributed to the weave issue. What's the part number under the top triple clamp?

I see that as well. I reposted the question on the Search Function thread. We'll see if the Admins confirm, but it doeas appear that the search does not see numerals. Still hoping someone recognizes the bike itself and we can search previous owners or locations to learn more about this Scura . . .

For a living I make Furniture, built in furniture, stuff designed by Architects & design as well. And I am well aware that sometimes I have spent so much time on a project that I loose sight of if it actually looks good. That I have lost my objectivity. Looking at these 2 custom bikes; I can admire the workmanship & the skill involved but find the overall result, 'Meh.' Maybe I just need a beer ? Craftsmanship is a worthy endeavor. Some of these "exercises" may be more *marketing* or *promotion.* I do think the custom "Centauro" makes the grade. Haha - could be the Craft Beer talking!

Well, I can say my flywheel is *noisier* now. Failure prone? Not likely. Clutch action seems fine. [edit link to "Sticking Clutch?" thread/ July 2017 and the real reason my "flywheel" was getting noisy; "clutch action" failed six months after this post]: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20037&p=223175 Valve guides? And all these other vaunted failures? Evidently not eminent. Just working the usual and ongoing maintenance intervals along with the various improvements (wiring and grounding, bearings and lubricants) we all know about already. As it turns out, "100,000 miles" did not reveal itself as so momentous after seeing to scheduled maintenance and well advised "improvements." So much so, that I could devote such time, effort, and resources to this homage to Carcano e Marabese. And to all if the contributors to this forum. What a fantastic learning experience.

My, my . . . the 100k refresh . . . that is, perhaps, another matter entirely . . . So many people have asked me, "What are you going to do to the Sport at 100,000 miles? Complete tear-down? Heads? Clutch? Pistons? Drive shaft?" In all honesty? It needs the regularly scheduled 6,000 mile/ 10.000km tune up (I'm on "Step One" of the Decent Tune-Up). At 5,943 miles the plugs looked rough enough that I think 4,000 is a better interval. I found no combustion "soot" around the top of the exhaust valves/guides. The right side valves were spot-on, and left needed 0.002" adjustment (with my *new* kewl valve adjustment tool). I thought about replacing the original valve cover gaskets. But cleaned them instead. Maybe I ought to replace the original sump gasket?

These V11 are pretty "tightly packed," especially if the owner decides to add things (FIAMM horns and redundant regulator grounds ). I was worried this attempt at an homage to both Guilio Carcano and Luciano Marabese could look far-fetched and be a "sore thumb." But, I think it's gonna be okay. Can't wait to get it out in the natural light on the side stand. Should be pretty subtle. Moved the bus, but still have the stage lights on:

Now I understand why Ing. Carcano's Otto Cylindri looks so different in every photograph. To the "naked eye," in natural light, zinc chromate looks "olive drab," but under fluorescent, LED, or flash photography, it *pops* rather bright yellow-green. Curing the final clear on the radiator:

Mobil 1 V Twin 20-50 is rated "SJ" https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide-2016.pdf Looks like good phosphorus/zinc levels (1600/1750), yet no confirmation of base oil. (I know the thread is more about ZDDP, and not base oil . . . ) Probably one the best, and most widely available, 20W-50 specialty oils. mayormenino, you can get this oil in your home state? If so, no worries about adding ZDDP!