docc

"Slip-of-a-tail," indeed!

See? I feel better already!

Otherwise, maybe I'm dreaming . . .

But, this is about tires . . . PIT STOP!

If you can't see your V11 in these lines, you can't see. Or, maybe your V11 isn't silver . . .

Wow,. were they touring or is that where they live? I saw BAT 7 hanging in a guy's shop in South Bend IN in 1988. Yes, Hanging! Friend of a friend. He finally sold it years later to someone in California, where it was restored. I'd LOVE to see them in person. Apologies for the segue, but that can happen to tire threads! (And it's okay! ) The B.A.T. Alfas were exhibited at the second automobile exhibit in Nashville's Frist Museum for the Visual Arts as their piece de resistance. I have seen pictures of these cars since I was a little kid, but was not prepared for their *presence!* I tried to take some pictures, but they just don't show the intensity and quality. Yet, those words don't show measure to the *je ne sais quois* http://www.automobilemag.com/news/11-cars-see-bellissima-italian-automotive-renaissance-exhibit/

Timing sensor looks like this on a V11: #112 O-ring visible below: Common oil leak ahead of the left cylinder base just aft of the timing cover seam.

Eliminating the front crossover will probably be *relatively negligible* for us mere mortals. I hear there are those finely-tuned riders who can tell some change. You have a link? Let's have us a look-see! EDIT: I see them on the Mistral Special Parts page: http://www.mistralspecialparts.it/index_eng.php#

Moto Murphy contacted me to say he fiddled with the sidestand switch and got the bike started. I had to say that the trouble might still be lurking as that switch is unlikely to affect starting unless we sit on the bike with the stand up to start it. Also, I have encountered the difference in body colors between the 1999-2001 "silver" Sport and the 2002 "grey" which is not at all the earlier silver, but darker.

Interesting article on Shell Nitro+ . . . I'll have to check around locally to see if it's available? https://news.classiccars.com/shell-develops-new-premium-fuel-engines-old-cars/

Using the steel frame for grounding relies on it being bolted to the aluminum engine and gearbox (with steel fasteners) still grounding back to the battery through the negative battery cable at the gearbox. The conductivity of the fasteners concerned me because of the electrolytic corrosion between dis-similar metals, so I add the ground strap back to the timing chest bolt. My primary regulator case ground is a 10g straight to the timing chest.

Since the battery grounds to the gearbox and my regulator case grounds to the timing chest (it's bolt into the engine block), I don't think this ground path is "split." I have a separate case ground from regulator to the frame, and the ground strap from the timing chest to the frame, AND the factory black ground wire that goes through the loom to the (junction block for) the negative battery terminal. Because I've grounded the horns and headlights to the frame, I wanted that point grounded back to the timing chest/engine case. Of course, that's probably way over the top, but it *evolved * that way. In my way of thinking, the frame is the redundant, not primary, ground path.

The spark plugs fire back through the engine case grounds. Yet, grounding the frame seems smart. This is why I ran a braided ground strap from the timing chest to the frame where you have grounded the regulator. Can't have too many grounds . . .

Also an 1100 Sport, Foundry Motorcycle's "Pipeline" really shows off the layout of a proper SpineFrame! Imagine the sound with you helmet right above that dual throat Weber!

Well done. Those are the "through bolts" on the early V11 with external fuel pump that I use for duplicate regulator/ timing chest grounding/ horn grounds/ headlight grounds. The same points should be still be on the later frame?

Cam/timing sensor could use a fresh #112 O-ring?

Maybe one for the *Swingarm Off Maintenance Checklist?*

One tooth is, what, like 5º ? Or more like 10º ? (not sure how many splines there are on the shaft mate-up . . . ) If the shaft is one tooth off, can that be easily seen with the bike fully assembled? More importantly, with just one tooth off, will the rhinoceros feel quite that frosty?

"Oetiker clamps" . . . I've always hated those things. That motor looks rather un-V11-like . . . The tiny glimpse of the frame is Griso-exque . . .

Yup, this is so true. Sorry to have added complexity by asking about the voltmeter. It won't likely be necessary to solve this.

Less than 1% chance it is the starter button itself. Probably better then 50% it is one or both of the front two relays (+1 on the OMRON) Of there is no click or whirrrr whatsoever, it is very likely the bullet connectors for the clutch switch, or less likely: the clutch switch itself. Those two things probably cover 75% of no start conditions in the V11. Kiwi_Roy's questions are spot on, Murph. You have a voltmeter handy?

Too cool! Happy Birthday! ( . . . the other CGP was John Knowles?)