Nice to see this thread maintained by the OP!
You think you can get that last image to *zoom* when it's clicked on?
I was wanting to check out that alternator cover on the Jackal. Yep. Alternator cover. That's it. Yep.
No more flicker.
Slightly loose battery connections and, especially, the loose ECU case ground. It's been 2,000 miles/ 3.226 km since hooking the battery back up from the clutch replacement, so I hope to remember next time to re-tighten after I've had the battery unhooked.
Not sure if the ECU ground could have been the main culprit. It was certainly actually loose.
Evidently, if the main ground / earth / negative battery cable to the right rear of the gearbox is not well maintained, the electrical system grounds itself back through the (too) small wire in the loom.
Still hoping Fred in the shed will chime in. I hope it's all cool I moved the thread here (24/7 V11).
I have left the other thread (in Motha of All V11 Forums)to link here (for now).
Somehow I missed that you guys are riding from the PNW to Alabama on two Nortons, a Guzzi, and a Tool Box - er, I mean "Brick."
I guess I thought you were flying to B'ham and renting an RV to stay in . . .
Well, I've had the warning light give me fair warning when one of the yellow wires from the stator had broken. Enough warning to travel toward home almost fifty miles where I could be "collected." (still fifty miles from home).
The only other complete charge failure I've had was a blown 30 amp fuse (from a loose positive battery terminal connection). That one, the light and poor running both appeared suddenly. Maybe two-three miles later, I was stranded.
Started carrying jumper cables after that.
I like the voltmeter idea, including the LED indicators. I wish either Garmin (GPS) or Speedhut (speedometer) would understand that voltage is an important parameter to display on a motorcycle. I decided to check some grounding under the seat since I had the battery out for a while recently while doing the clutch-and-such. Negative battery terminal took maybe an 1/8 turn to tighten. Everything took a little on both sides (I have junction blocks with additional connections on both sides.) Loosest was the ground to the ECU case. I think that "vibration isolator" mount has come apart again. But I got the ground terminal good and tight. I'll know in the next week if the flicker quits (since it has been intermittent). Hubert, thanks for helping me focus on the harness and connections! Hopefully, these simple tightening procedures will make the difference!
To complicate matters, it doesn't do it every time. I've not noticed it on start-up, only coming home.
I've been planning to add a dedicated reference wire from the battery and stop taking it from the headlamp circuit as my headlamp has dedicated harness of its own.
Yeah, I wish that product had voltage parameters for the AGM (those voltage breaks are fine for a flooded lead-acid battery). 13.2vDC just doesn't cut it.
I look at it as a charging failure indicator, not so much as an indicator of max charge voltage.
If the system starts to get weak or just quits and voltage drops below 13.2, I will still have some capacity left in the battery. That might give me a chance to pull some lighting fuses and make it home, or at least get closer to home.
Or if I'm running heated gear and it's too much for the system I will get a warning before the battery is too low to start the bike.
Hm . . . interesting. We're coming into heated gear season here. I'll have to plug in the 77 watt jacket and see what the flicker flicks!
Yep, I keep my AGM "pre-conditioned."
The dim warning light is new.
While the battery seems fine, I wonder what has changed to flicker this light at idle.
Yeah, I wish that product had voltage parameters for the AGM (those voltage breaks are fine for a flooded lead-acid battery). 13.2vDC just doesn't cut it.