docc

Well, now, since no one has sent me links to absurdly expensive beryllium fasteners from some Space Program supplier, I'll just have to move on . . . The Agulia badges came today, and they may be the tightest 3D prints I have seen. Now, to decide whether to paint their background silver or make them zinc chromate. The lovely Gambalunga logo (in honor of Luciano Marabese) will be left red. To match my true-and-proper early RedFrame . . . Courtesy of sp838: http://www.shapeways.com/product/ABDSPQG9A/gambalunga-badges-both-no-steel

Sweet! Which motor? (haven't there been three?)

yup. simple #112 o-ring. Easy to try first.

If anyone can find your lost *nut*, knumbnutz has stepped up as a specialist in this sort of thing. I always thought a lost little nut, or errant tiny ball, was lost to the universe. But, now it appears they can be divined, if even only ethereally.

Except for the oil leak (maybe from the timing sensor?) I suppose the unfortunate 2002 crinkle paint is not going to sustain oil leaks well . . . I think the last #112 O-ring i got from the local auto parts supplier was two bucks . . .

The leaker is clearly visible in your third photo. It is not the head gasket. Remove the timing sensor, replace the #112 Viton O-ring and *Bob e `tuo zio*

Ok, here: >Observe the Timing/TDC/Cam Position Sensor on the left side of the timing chest for leakage. A simple #112 O-ring replacement is often all that is necessary. That said, mine leaked through the wire lead and had to be sealed with an epoxy. Do not increase the gasket thickness as this will change the timing. Sometimes, the fasteners just need to be snugged up.

That is a common drip from the "cam /timing sensor." you might could just snug it up, but it has a little O-ring. Gimme a minute, there's a link in the Tank Off maintenance Checklist . . .

Not sure what Stew has for "Ace Hardware" in Sheffield . . . Yet, a 5/32" ball is about halfway between 3,9mm and 4,0mm; probably will work (?) [ 0.0027" / almost three thousandths of an inch larger ] This is one of those rare cases where bigger balls are not necessarily better!

I see that battery thread has over 70 posts. This one *might* offer somewhat of a summary: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18838&p=209451 Also, I would think it good to make sure she has *fresh* fuel to run on. High octane/zero ethanol would be preferable . . . If the motor oil has not been changed in years, bring it home hot and drain the old, nasty stuff out while it's hot.

I was hoping a steel .177 caliber BB would work, but my math gives me 4,5mm. Maybe with a little judicious *reaming* of the hole . . . I mean, we're just talking 0,6 mm. Between guzzisti and all . . .

That looks very likely. I was guessing 4mm, but could not get a measurement without disassembly . . .

I tried to measure mine in situ, but can't really. Let me take mine apart and get a proper size for the fitment . . . .

It sits in a hole in the downward vertical bracket extension between the lever and the microswitch in order to activate the switch. A smear of grease on installation helps keep it from departing the universe at first opportunity . . .

If a person that currently builds airplanes says we might be overthinking this then we are probably overthinking this into the stratosphere lol. Simply because as we all know it is the very nature of a airplane builder to overthink things to start with. Haha! Ya think? It's great stuff, though. I've learned a ton from this discussion. The absurdly complex restoration of the alternator cover is simply emblematic of the lengths men will go to in order to keep their hands busy and their minds off of less pleasant matters. Now for a study of beryllium fasteners . . .

There is a topic? Nothing "off-topic" so far. Whew, I'm just trying to prep for a decent 100,000 mile tune-up! Planning to groom all of my grounds on the next "Tank Off" session. (regulator to timing chest/ timing chest to spine frame etc . . .)

Oh, that's scary. I gots that dude's hair now!

Wow, that is powerful. And close to home! These guys, too, I suppose:

Also, I see from this that it is the aluminum alloy (block, or heads, or timing chest castings) that become the anode and are degraded (corroded) by the electrolysis. Doubly un-good!

So, if I'm reading this chart right, I should get-me some beryllium fasteners and the "world will be, once again, spinning on greased grooves." Thanks to MartyNZ for this great link! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19689&p=215297

Yes, l think so. Anything that keeps water out would be helpful. Especially if there is enough around the head to ooze out as you tighten the bolt. Agreed. For a long while, I believed copper anti-seize enhanced electrical conductivity (copper, right?), but gstallons set me straight on this: it's petroleum based grease (like "Vaseline®" or common petroleum jelly). Di-electric grease is, apparently, silicon based and an entirely different animal. Sometime in the next couple weeks I'll get my fasteners out and see how the threads are looking. If I don't hear about one more special chemical or accoutrements to make this The Most Complicated Valve Adjustment Ever.

Guilty. . . . . I'd like to think they have a proper coat of copper antisieze on their threads. The top two are still the original cross-head screws. Not sure why. She has a few *character lines* now, the old girl . . .

The alternator cover doesn't really look that bad (or does it? ), but I'm in too deep to back out now.