docc

Truly. I have been trying to discern the wiring. The connector to the driver *looks* very similar to the AMP connector for the V11 headlamp, but it's not the same. What to cut and solder this time? That would be far from "plug&play ". . . .

My best methods yield *right-at* 45 mm from the H4 base plate to the back of the bucket. If the fan exhausts backward through the honeycomb, maybe a vent cut in the back of the bucket would be exactly right? If the fan exhausts radially, then it's simply a close fit (10 mm behind the heat sink/ fan housing).

Those costs are quite reasonable. These are the OMRON G8HE High Current 5-pin (SPDT)?

This is one option I would like to make fit. 4000 lumen, 4300 Kelvin. It does have a fan and a driver, but that seems to be the norm. Good news though, "no need tool." I have a extra bucket that I might-could *modify* if necessary. . . https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-H4-CREE-LED-Motorcycle-Headlight-Bulb-4000LM-40W-Hi-Lo-20W-Low-Beam-Conversion-Kit/32619929937.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.27.PpxLMx&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_5010019_10136_10137_10157_10060_10138_10155_10062_10156_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_303_100031_10099_10103_10102_10096_10147_10052_10053_10107_10050_10142_10051_10084_10083_5190020_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_519_10111_10112_10113_10114_10183_10182_10185_10078_10079_10073_10123_142-10050,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=e6d1f2b0-23fa-46f2-b8d1-f0ac63ba47f5&algo_expid=dca429f6-9754-4b9f-aaac-ef16f611ca97-3&algo_pvid=dca429f6-9754-4b9f-aaac-ef16f611ca97

Are there plug&play LED turn signal "bulbs" comparable to this tail light unit?

I just mounted this LED tail/brake light. I forgot about the flash function, but am really glad to have it! I added a length of metalized (shiny silver surface) duct tape in the bottom of the tail light lens to reflect as much light out of the lens as possible. Thanks for posting this Swoosh! Now to find a *comparable* headlamp unit . . .

It's not the only Rube Goldberg mechanism on our V11. Have you looked at your sidestand? Or the way the Veglia speedometer is driven?

Hmm.. they don't have a cat converter just a big space, right? There's a perforated flat baffle in the factory crossover, but no cat(alytic converter) AFAIK.

The signal setting was no problem (select "2"), but I hoped the tachometer would read the exact same RPM that the ECU "sees". (My Veglia read about 300 RPM high.) So, while the face was open, I connected guzziadiag and *attempted to* rotate the face ever-so-slighlty to get the needle pointing at the exact RPM on guzzidiag. It's a big V-twin, so they both bounce around a lot. Another one "for the record": It ain't worth it.

Well, easy answer? The clutch noise is fine. The "choke?" . . . Well, it only nudges the right throttle plate slightly to give a "high idle." The cable can be adjusted at the throttle body as well as the "cam" that nudges the linkage on the right throttle body. See the "Decent Tune-up" for a picture of the bottom of the right throttle body. Once-upon-a-time, someone figured that *some* V11 may have gotten the seat latch spring and high-idle spring switched in Luigi's bins. Swapping them has been said to make both the high idle and the seat latch work better . . . YMMV

While trying to index the tach (make it level and plumb), I inadvertently found the the chrome bezel unscrews (unlike the Veglia which are crimped). This revealed the added seal which seals the glass to the face surround. (I also tried to use guzzidiag to calibrate the rpm reading, but I'm not sure that was a success . . . )

The PC545 is slowly recovering. The float charge is now 13.26 (looking for it make 13.4-13.8). When I first tried to restore its state of charge, it would only float at 12.7, which is about 90% of an AGM full charge and the charger would terminate. I have been wondering if I damaged one of the terminals internally overtightening . . .

Best method: put all five High Current OMRON in your relay blocks (contacts smeared with a little Vaseline®) and put your *others* in the "Monkey Paw Trap" to help out other V11 riders who didn't get the memo.

Actually, more on the battery and proper procedure while working on an electrical system. If I am understanding Kiwi_Roy's method, it is to disconnect the vehicle battery and use a separate power source to power a system while it's being worked on?

"Enjoy thy topics as well as thy posts." - Desiderata

The Fuel Injection Relay for sure and, if your V11 fails The Easy Livin' Test, also the Start Relay (usually #1 in the front).

I'm guessing it is a combination of it sitting for 30 days, turning the gauges on and off some, and not disconnecting the battery while unmaking and making connections? That last part is what made me think I should have disconnected the battery while doing the work.

Truly . . . .

Thanks for the kind encouragement, Scud. I'm working at *reconditioning* the AGM (2 1/2 years old). If it won't respond, I'll put my 7 year old >testbed Swampee-the-man-eating-garden-tractor-from-Kirkland. What I know most about reconditioning batteries: cycle them!

I know it's *The Eleventh Hour*, but where is the lodging Friday and Saturday night? Still here: http://www.wingfieldinnandsuitesowensboroky.com/

This RAM system includes a flywheel?

Kinda like fitting an Aero motor to a Lario . . .

I'll bet you could have those high current relays from Digikey (USA) in a few days with reasonable shipping costs. Otherwise, take the OMRON part number and have look locally: High-Current OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 Yep, I got a set after Docc kept brow beating me so I wouldn't get left on the side of the road on the mini spine raid/mutton run next week. About 25 bux shipped in a couple of days.. Ya'll are killin' me here . . . At the very least, I won't have to carry so many spare relays for ya'll when we meet on the (side of the) road . . .

I'm more than a little embarrassed to post this, but it looks like I made a stupid mistake. As many of you know, I am *meticulous* about monitoring and maintaining my AGM battery. After my Speedhut gauge installation, my battery would not take a charge from the dedicated EnerSys charger. My >testbed Seems I violated Rule#1 of electrical work: -> Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal. -> First. -> Before Anything Else. There, I feel a little better knowing that you won't do what I screwed up . . .

I'll bet you could have those high current relays from Digikey (USA) in a few days with reasonable shipping costs. Otherwise, take the OMRON part number and have look locally: High-Current OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12