docc

Seems the first thing K'Roy would say is something about scraping your battery terminals shiny and Vaseline®.

So the $20 bulb puts out 200 lumen and the regular one is 1850 and you're complaining? The blue/white is very effective at one thing, drivers seeing you. It seems like if I'm going to go to the trouble to "upgrade", I would want a significant difference in output. I realize that the cost, and the heat, rise with the output, while longevity/reliability go down. I didn't mean to start a separate headlight thread, as I was hoping the member who had posted an alternative LED would post up. It wasn't posted on the JBBenson's main thread, but somewhere else. Still, I appreciate all the links and the education. At this point, I would like to find a heat sink (no fan) unit with 4000+ lumen and color range less than 5000 Kelvin.

God point (Kiwi_Roy always makes good points ) that the start wiring changed on the V11 series. voicie, how about going to your profile and filling in your year/ model V11 and a location?

Well, as noted, I've seen H4 LED with as little as 1000 lumen and as much as 8000. The standard incandescent hi-beam is around 1850. One member in the other thread (I believe Moto fugazzi) commented that the blue-white light is not as effective as the warmer (more yellow) color in rain and fog. I've heard similar comments from the automotive side. (Sw'dave, I have one of the LED tail light units you posted elsewhere, but haven't installed yet.)

The V11 bucket is about the same size as the 850T one. About 5in deep. For $20 you can confirm the bulbs I recommended work. Both those bulbs, posted in Post#3 are "only" 2000 lumen and neither list the color spectrum.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605

Nice! Well done! (Hmm . . . catalytic converter in the factory US crossover? )

I had to move the GPS antenna. I didn't like the way it looked on top of the gauge cluster. Moved it to the top of the headlight shell under the fiberglass Stucchi. "Acquires" fine from there:

Good math. I ride about 100 hours per year. It appears H4 LED products are in a constant state of development these days. Perhaps the perfect compact, 5000 lumen, 4300 Kelvin, heat sink unit is on the horizon . . .

Isn't that the most likely ("first") place a Guzzi V-twin gets damaged from oil starvation? And isn't it also the easiest place to look at for signs of damage?

I tried the higher output halogens (Sylvania Silver Star), but they were just too unreliable. Some might last months, but I changed one before an important ride preemptively, and it didn't last weeks.

Man, i didn't realize that you produced that comparison. I thought it was from some commercially produced source. Well done! Very good point on the matter of Lux versus Lumen, yet manufacturers only typically publish the latter? It appears your Cu LED produces about triple the "light?"

I like the heat sink idea. And the "warmer" color (4300-4800K), but I'm not seeing that combination. It looks like the lumen output for the standard incandescent H4 is ~910 lo / ~1800 hi.

Actually the heat output of a powerful LED is less than half the heat output of a halogen incandescent bulb. The heat is intense in a tiny localised spot on the LED, which would destroy it unless a heat sink or something similar can conduct the heat away. I didn't like the idea of relying on a tiny fan, so I fitted an LED with big copper braid loops. The steel headlight bucket barely gets warm enough to feel it. Marty, how's this heat sink LED working out? I asked on the other thread to get the link fixed: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18532&p=221139 Lot's of good info in JBBenson's LED Headlights thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18532&page=1 I'm seeing lumen ratings from 1000 to 7000 and everything in between. And a wide array of color from 3000K to 8000K.

Hey, is the tag light on?

Truly. I've long thought that there are three simple parameters that motorcyclists would like prominently displayed that *car people* don't get: 1) Fuel Odometer 2) Voltage 3) Ambient temperature

Thanks, leroysch! Actually the set screws are more to index the alignment of the gauges and keep them seated against the mounting plate. I used a clamp to "sandwich" the gauge, O-rings, and gauge cover when setting the set screws. The V11 gauge cover is thin enough out at that edge that I wouldn't trust them to hold it all together. So, that's why I used the three rear-facing M4 x 50mm into the front of the warning light receptacle (I would have used 55mm if they were available). The V11 gauge cover ABS is pretty sturdy there, yet I would avoid over-tightening. While assembling, it was still quite fiddly to groom all the wiring inside so the cover would seat without forcing it (especially the lower fastener). Once in place, I held it with a clamp while securing the three main retention screws. Snugged the set screws to index the gauges last. For the record: I'm not thrilled with the set screws. One of them already threaded itself through the Speedhut case and I replaced it with a machine screw. That one is "reliably captured", now! So, what is thinner: the V11 gauge cover or the Speedhut gauge backs? The Speedhut must be pretty thin. Not sure what *plastic* they are made of.

Well, just 16 miles yesterday, but managed 80 today. Well, "80-ish?" The Veglia always read close to 2% more miles on the odometer than the Garmin Zumo GPS. I suppose I expected these two GPS devices to be identical. The speed appears to be, but the Speedhut odometer is about 1.8% fewer miles than the Garmin. Perhaps it can be calibrated, but now I really don't know which one is more correct (if either). While the instruments are amazingly visible , the LCD odometer is not. It takes quite a squint&stare to decipher the trip odometer which is what I use to plan fuel range/stops. The contrast adjustment only lowers the contrast and I don't think affects daylight function at all. Yet, I've never-ever been able to just glance at the needles and know my speed. The Veglia always danced around and always read high. So, speed had to be divined by taking an average of the sweep and subtracting 4-6 mph. So, these new dials are fabulous! That's two and three . . . . . . . = ?

Upon request, Speedhut adds a silicone seal to the glass, but nothing for the backs. They told me some of their customers use silicone there. I decided to use the rubber caps and fitted tubing along with the RTV silicone and heat shrink. Along with the mounting plate O-rings and sealing up the factory ABS gauge cover/"buckets". Being as these are fine electronic instruments, I expect that they will not tolerate even one incident of soaking.

Well, yeah . . . you know where to post your results!

Well, yes if the outer cover is sealed well enough (I tried!), but the electronic instruments are built like *transistor radios* and look to be made to mount in a dash panel of a car . . . so I tried to seal their leading edges (gauge "backs"). There is a large opening in the left side (speedometer) V11 cover for the cable drive. If you're in SoCal or Arizona: no worries . But I ride into really harsh weather at times. My installation seals the gauges themselves, the V11 instrument cover/"buckets", and mounts behind a (Stucchi bikini) fairing. I'm hoping for the best . . . . Right? First time in four speedometers (15 years) that the displayed odometer mileage is "actual."

Now, this upsets me rather greatly. That is the very Yamaha that my brother (you met this dude, in Safety Harbor, czakky) tested the ignition wire by having me hold it and kicking the bike over. Good news: LIVE SPARK!! Bad news: you can only use your brother for this one time.

Step One: disconnect the battery negative.

+1 on czakky's comment. Why scrap the airbox?

Thanks for being patient while I've worked through documenting the installation. Immense gratitude to all the members who have posted their efforts and results in this thread.