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I can *edit* that post to say you passed the bad-ass brown truck on the inside of a decreasing radius downhill and he stopped to give you a trophy . . . Sweet Thruxton, BTW. Not to mention your getting the RedFrame back on the road so quickly.

Found a [cheap!] copper hammer, and a friend who has offered to fit a black cherry handle. Those two things seem paired like Brie and baguettes. Beer and burgers. Wind and winding-it-out! http://www.hammersource.com/Copper-Hammers-Wood-Handle/1/2lb-Copper-hammer-3/4-face-11-wood-handle/

All the food groups, right there!

If you have a US spec fuel vapor evaporation system in place still, this is an example of after-engineering to meet US Federal nit-picking. It weighs five pounds and includes twenty feet of 1/2 inch SAE fuel line to accomplish this, as well as the nefarious "one-way valve." It is "open to atmosphere", but only on the far side of all this plumbing, TWO carbon canisters, and vacuum applied from the intake manifolds. I'm with Kiwi_Roy (always a safe bet! ) that something got pinched. *Might* be a good time for the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist with a good mind toward the venting/ overflow plumbing.

How heinous does your riding have to be to get pulled over by a UPS truck?

I find it quite an honor that those RedFrame riders of the striking V11 Green variety would make room for those with off-color tendencies . . .

I dub thee a F'red!

While I use the "Run" (kill) Switch in normal operation, guzzidiag says "Ignition", so I leave the Run Switch on during guzzidiag sessions and only use the Ignition Switch.

1050 +/- 50 rpm is what the manual says. I like mine higher, ~1150-1200+. Step 6 says something like, "Now put the idle anywhere you like it."

Yep, the switches are absolutely worth checking as well. You guys know me, I'm always looking for the simplest, cheapest (Guzzi content, Chuck!), and easiest solutions. That would be the bulb or fault in the tail light (like the two connectors may be touching inside the bulb receptacle or the tail light wiring can be pinched under the tail section). Otherwise, the rear brake plunger that goes up into the rear master cylinder from the foot lever can get really corroded or the actuation badly adjusted and the rear brake stays applied. Not only does the light stay on, but so does the rear brake. Not good, and doubly worth checking. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18158&p=192643 Rear Wheel Maintenance Checklist

I love this plan, Fred. Signed, *F'red*

Like Antiquar said, go easy on them. I used brass washers and shortened fasteners. Obviously, it didn't work out for me, but I would not risk taking them out, installing vacuum taps, removing them, and reinstalling the bolts every 4000-6000 miles. (Yeah, you ought to change the plugs, adjust the valves, and balance your throttle bodies that often).

1157 bulbs are asymmetrical. So you'd have to try pretty hard to reverse them. Not saying it can't be done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The V11 tail light receptacle is pretty weak. I've seen the bulb reversed several times. It isn't that hard and both filaments will light.

I had mine plugged like that for a while and finally stripped one and had to Heli-Coil. After that, I went back to the factory brass vacuum taps with rubber caps. I carry extra caps in case one fails. 21 Oct 2019 edit: [These caps (or hoses) should be replaced periodically as they get dried out and vacuum leak. Also the brass taps can loosen up and I don;t think the Heli-Coil does a good job of forming a seal. Maybe PTFE tape is a good idea for these?]

I am also trying to figure out an intercept operation. Thanks for keeping us up on the plan.

Now, it becomes clear that, if one has an Albrecht von Goertz designed BMW 507, exactly who gets to park in front . . .

Simplest solution I've seen: the bulb can be installed reversed on the mounts and light both filaments. Pull the bulb, turn it 180º . Recheck the light functions (tail and brake) and?

Meinolf knows this software interface really well, also. I never had a problem setting the CO after the motor was at operating temp, but I forgot about the error codes, too. Maybe the V11 I've set just miraculously didn't have any codes to clear? Maybe the 30 second thing is important? maybe not? Post what y'all find out.

I'll look at amending the Decent Tune-up and Basic Guzzidiag Tutorial for V11 to emphasize these issues. Thanks, gentlemen!

Speedhut is sending me the dimmer, but it is for controlling up to eight instruments, and I don't know where I can mount it or if it's worth the trouble. http://www.speedhut.com/ecommerce/product/780/Gauge-Lighting-Inverter-for-Multiple-Gauges-with-Dimmer I'll know more when it gets here. [edit/ 20 May 2017: I didn't use the dimmer. I found it too bulky for my application and don't trust it's weather resistance. I haven't had the bike out at night yet, but in the dark garage the brightness level looks okay.]

LSFR Lsydexic Society of FredRames

But you polished your foot levers - or at least the shifter. I remember seeing a picture and thinking that looked quite good. True. When the Sport was down for the 2003 crash and I was waiting on a swingarm (that ended up coming from Germany with Paul Minneart's help), I couldn't keep my hands off and decided to polish the shift lever. I *suppose* I like it that way, but probably would not have done it if the Sport weren't down for those four months. "Idle hands", you know . . . The original Marabese monochromatic design almost everything is muted (controls, valve covers, headguards, triples, even the exhaust and forks to an extent). Only the headlight ring, instrument bezels, and a thin trim around the tail light are bright. I think all that adds up to making the RedFrame really *pop*, and even the vast majority of that is hidden.

Original RedFrame valve covers, head guards, and foot levers were the same *satin* silver-ish grey. Nothing polished. Grigio!

The "city light" comes on with the ignition switch through the 5 amp Fuse#6, no relay. That circuit comes on in both the *on* position and the *park* position of the Ignition Switch. It turns on the 4watt bulb in the headlamp, tail lamp, tag lamp, and instrument illumination. The term "dash lights" refers to the instrument illumination? Those are on the Fuse#6 with tail light/tag light/ *city* light. Easiest way to tap into that would be the *city* light in the bucket. Otherwise, "dash lights" could refer to the "warning lights" (aka *idiot lights*), but those are on Relay #2/ Fuse#5 and I would not use that circuit to power anything more.

I love this *dream* . . . .