docc

It's so great to be sharing you experience! Thanks for continuing the thread! Since the TPS setting and the Throttle Body synchronization are separate settings, I'm curious what you are using for the synch (Hg sticks, manometer, "TwinMax")? Plan on the cables to use "guzzidiag" and set your CO Fuel Trim.

Yeah, there should be a tiny bulb in the bucket with your H4. Tail light, tag light, city light, and instrument lights are all on that circuit (fuse 6 directly from the ignition switch/ no relay). I don't think I've ever seen a bad ground blow a fuse. Blow bulbs or melt wiring, sure, but blow a fuse?

It occurred to me that the 4 watt "city light" in the headlamp bucket could have been affected by your LED installation, either crowding it somehow or impinging its wiring? That could also blow Fuse 6.

Wiring to the tail light is known to get pinched in the fender panels along the rear subframe. Also, the contacts inside the light fixture itself can get weak and bent - usually that just means no (or intermittent) contact, but they're worth looking at. I've see a bad bulb filament blow a fuse, but that's not as likely for you as the pinched wire. Or a frayed wire in the ignition switch.

As I recall, Pete's last post on this was that he no longer making them: "So unless people would like to club together and put in a bulk, (Over ten.) order for plates from me I'm afraid I'm done with them. Sorry." http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19211&p=206687

Oh, yes! That . . . I have a name for that, but it involves multiples of *sailor language* . . . Horrible little grommet. And do not neglect to groom the side stand switch wire well away from the exhaust and other harm. It is what the Run Switch lives on while we are under way . . .

Yeah, those aren't lower. They're higher than the factory pegs. . . . and bigger around, which makes them higher yet . . .

When you say "rubber grommet" you are not referring to the inspection hole to the flywheel?

That seems to have every thing required for a snowy day!

You know you're in for it when you get hijacked by your own amygdala!

Seems like the original Spine Raid *documentary* (2014) should be required watching for those who would think better about being found in the vicinity . . . Yet, "Enter the Italians", appears to have fallen off the YouTube universe . . .

Ooohhh . . . we're going to be on the very slippery slope now . . . + =

Instrument lighting, tail light, 4watt "city" lamp, and license tag light are all Fuse 6 from the ignition switch - no relay.

Instruments ground back the the battery through the harness (loom). Relay function (both #1 and especially #2) affect the tach. Start there. Inspect and reset Fuse #5. Service all the connectors you can get your hands on. Tighten the terminal stack on the battery. Clean, tighten, and seal the main battery>gearbox ground. Add an engine ground strap to the regulator case. Clean and restore your ignition switch . . . After that . . . it's into the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist, realizing it could be an internal tach problem. Since the driveline is a stressed member, there are really no "frame grounding points." I've added them to my Sport, and retorquing the frame and subframe fasteners may be helpful.

A recurring theme: Italian temptress in a red dress wearing just enough tasty black bits to keep a guy glued on the purpose . . . . . . like you're going to tell her "no" at this point . . .

McDonalds is the answer, start "supersizing" and sag increases, stick to the junior burger and in decreases. Its all very straight forward. Ciao No mention of the effects of dark ales?

It has occurred to me that the frame faired LeMans variants, and even the V11 with frame mounted front kit (Ballabio, Coppa Italia, Café Sport) all have more front weight bias than an early RedFrame (or later "Naked") with fork mounted kit. Not as likely they would need to drop the triples. It's the spring rates that are really most dynamic.

Comes to mind to service all the grounding/earthing. Especially the primary ground cable from battery to gearbox and the regulator case ground to the engine. Also, check and reset all the fuses and relays. Be certain you are running a full compliment of high quality 5-pin relays. I prefer OMRON, but many are running others, including GEI. Consider cleaning your ignition switch. Be sure your battery is well conditioned.

So great! Really: congratulations on, not only, a great bike, but finding this community to share the experience with! Looks like *the beginning of a beautiful friendship . . .*

First, let me say: I am not the expert on this. I had to screw it up terrifically before getting it right (for me and my Sport). YMMV! Yet, I opted for rear spring rate versus front spring rate that allow the front to "sag" slightly more than the rear (perhaps 30mm front/ 25mm rear - (I'd have to go back to my notes for the exact measurements), while using "more" preload" in the rear and dropping the triples about 5mm in the front. Downside? front tire gets cupped quicker. Upside: no weave, no wobble, no big weight transfer on acceleration/deceleration: *planted* (Also: Pirelli AngelGT 40psi rear/35 psi front; Shindy steering damper set to zero. Öhlins shock with remote preload adjustment, Taxxion Dynamics fork springs; careful fork oil selection based on centiStokes, not SAE "oil weight", Tekno panniers always mounted with basic load-out)

Stick is correct unless you are creative. I put two layers of painters tape inside the transparent housing over the high beam and flashers. I happened to have blue painters tape and green painters tape lying around. Guzzi guys and analogue solutions!

40-60 psi! Now, that's more like it! Well done, sir ! !

I have come to think that "dB killers" are a strategy to not have to label canisters "for off road use only." Or, like my cf Guzzi Mistrals: FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY

Now, this has great potential as a "Silly Banter" topic of its own . . . posters with no proper credentials whatsoever could come up with some suggestive suggestions . . . "Sheep," you say . . . .

Bet you're gonna miss the old girl from time to time . . .