docc

As mentioned in another thread ('03 V11 runs like crap), a weak battery on a V11 can be a source of frustration. This is a recurring theme and can lead to a literal "wild goose chase" of various other issues when, really, the battery needs proper conditioning. So, three things: 1) Don't let your AGM fall below 12.65 volts before "conditioning" it. (First, discharge with the lights on for a few minutes, then charge as in Step 3.) 2) Don't expect your V11's electrical system to take care of this for you. It may not run well and the charging system will get pissed off. 3) Be certain your charge and float voltages are correct for the AGM requirement: 14.2-14.7v to charge (not to exceed 15v) with a minimum of 6 amps, and 13.5-13.8v to "float"/ "trickle" > LESS voltage on trickle/float is NOT okay. Odyssey states that floating under 13.2 damages the battery: "Note, however, that the charge voltage should not be dropped below 13.2V as that will cause the battery grids to corrode faster, thereby shortening the battery life."

Aw, shucks . . . I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I'm so, so happy with the way my Sport is running. But it hasn't always been that way and remember well the frustration. At one point, I was considering learning shop-grade cursing in Italian. Seriously, though, marginal battery condition is (IMHO) a source of constant, niggly trouble with these V11. I've been conducting some further investigation on the charging requirements of the AGM battery and it has been a real education. Don't give up on that battery until we can sort out its conditioning.

There are those who have had Delrin bushings made and pressed in. Should last forever.

That's dedication!

Stateside, we stay jealous for the ALFA. Looking for a Spider Veloce, I made my way through a Merkur (Ford Sierra) XR4Ti (weird, I know) and a '98 Ford SVT Contour/Mondeo (sleeper quick) to this ///M roadster which I've had almost 10 years. In order to stay in The Club, I submit our long-lost/teenager-crashed V70 T5 Estate that I didn't want to like at first, but grew to admire. And, in fact, do miss. But, for now, it is the Wrangler doing yeoman's duty!

So, this is revealing. I've never understood why anyone would own a Prius or a Toyota minivan. Now I know: "Polar Blue Lotus Elise." It all makes sense to me now!

I would be most curious where the CO fuel trim is (pre)set; often as low as minus 30. Sure, it's an "arbitrary scale," but moving tit to zero might make a surprising difference, especially at the low throttle openings. For certain, the TPS has been baselined? (Again, apologies for not totally rereading the thread)

A nice looking BMW K series? Sorry, not possible! Wait, but the motor is shaped almost exactly like your Volvo!

Gottagetone, I remember struggling with a similar low rpm hiccup that was really annoying in parking lot maneuvers - you know, the kind where everyone is looking at you . . . I found several issues over time, and I'm sure you are continuing to make things right. An rpm specific stumble could be from a TPS that is "bad" at that point. I could not find my bad TPS with the mV function, but when I connected a quality Ohm meter, I could see a consistent "jump" as I slowly opened and closed the TPS. New (HD) TPS, and much improved immediately! I've lost track of everything you've done already, so forgive me if I repeat: Have you zeroed the CO Fuel Trim? Inspected the 30 amp main fuse for heat damage?

YMMV. I had to take the brass holder off to get my Sport running right. There must be more than one way to skin a cat.. Right? True, that. Looking back, my Sport had several dynamic issues that affected its run quality adversely. Routinely repeating the *regular* tune-up has always been helpful. The faulty 30amp fuse, glitchy TPS, and bad coil wire connection took a lot of fettling to find and sort.

YMMV. I had to take the brass holder off to get my Sport running right.

Thanks, Phil, for posting that link here, and the great write-up and photos on grooming the V11 shift mechanism! Well done, man!

Have you zero'd the CO fuel trim already? That, and zero-ethanol fuel, made some of the biggest difference for me. There were other issues . . . Nasty Hiccup thread

I routinely fill the Sport with non-ethanol fuel and today noticed that the "premium" is now 90 AKI (RON+MON divided by 2), down a bit from what it was (91?). Sorry to see the "octane rating" (AKI) go down, but I can immediately tell the difference when I have to run ethanol laced fuel (pop-burp-hiccup).

"double chocolate bock" . . . . that's what goes in the V11 rear drive, yeah?

I love my factory shop stand, and having engaged it from both sides (the left being more *natural*), I most often lift mine from the right, with the stand handle dropping forward.

I've met czakky -he ain't no wuss, no way. period.

Those "hand fairings" would have felt pretty spectacular riding today!!

OMG: Guzzis, Volvos, diesels, tube amps . . . hammers . . . forum of the afflicted!

New Year's Day: 66 miles to meet a like-minded good friend. Low forties (ºF) made the heated jacket worth it . . . until the controller failed. Felt great to get out . . . mostly working on conditioning AGM batteries . . .

You could write me a note, yah? You are The Chief Whip, after all! (BTW, how many hours to ride from NL to Mandelo del Lario?)

I'm guessing my Garmin "City Navigator" maps don't have this feature . . . . I second RoxLemans compliment of your mapping and navigation!