docc

That looks great! How did you remove the tar-pit and prep the surface?

Keep sorting - every improvement adds up! And, as you say,"Still no regrets. This is a fun bike." Your charging numbers are way too low - so, regulator, regulator case ground, primary gearbox ground, stator wires, 30 amp regulator fuse . . . It will be absolutely worth the effort! Lovely bikes!

Right: "drying out" the tank and strictly avoiding ethanol fuels will restore the tank shape (and likely draw the paint bubble back in close), but will not re-adhere the paint, so that spot will always be fragile.

Reportedly, that's from the Nylon tank changing shape from dubious contents in the fuels, ie: ethanol and the badness it invites.

I've heard of "balls of steel." See here: Real Men have balls of string!"

While appearances have certainly driven the wider-than-necessary tires on the V11 series, I also wonder that the 5.5" rim was part of Moto Guzzi attempting to address early complaints about the V11 stability along with lengthening and bracing the frame, revising the clip-ons, and changing the tire selection. No doubt, the "long-frame" wide wheel V11 are more *planted* . . .

Now, there's something that goes with smoke. "Being shot out of a canon will always beat being squeezed out of a tube." HST

Or is that something your V11 did to you?

The early seats often put pressure on the battery (even solo). Check that the terminal stacks are good & tight. Look also that the relays and fuses are seated well. It is possible that a passenger could be jostling the relays if they are not in good contact. Look at the thread on Odyssey PC545 Battery conditioning. With careful method and the right charger, you could likely recover that battery. Inspect the 30 amp regulator fuse for signs of overheating and record the voltage series (1-after no activity for 24 hours, 2- key on for two-three minutes, 3 - cranking, 4 - idle, 5 - at rpm/ maybe 2000+

That works so much better than my attempt. So, one "bulb" and two side arrays? What does that look like with the lens off? (I'm gonna be owing ya a beer, now, mate!)

I tried an early made 1157 type LED in my tail light, but it didn't even look like it was on from the side, dim from an angle (only bright straight on). How doea one look from the side, does it illuminate the red lens?

After a second discharge/charge cycle (one week) on the EnerSys AGM charger, I started and ran this machine with my 5 1/2 year old PC545. After sitting nineteen (19) days, it reads an impressive 12.75v (98%). I was just not getting these results with any of my conventional chargers. I'm convinced!

Oh, wait: discharge first, then your high-zoot AGM charger will take care of the rest. Otherwise (without a dedicated AGM charger), discharge first then apply 6 or more amps until 15v (14.6v for a conventional flooded battery), then float the AGM at 13.5-138v. The thing about the high-zoot AGM chargers is that they are temperature corrected, controlling the amperage and voltage at correct levels through the charge and float phases. SOoooo much easier to use on the AGM. The only requisite is to do the discharge first. Beginning this thread, I had hoped to learn how to use my collection of conventional battery chargers to maintain the AGM. I learned that, yeah, they'll do it, and give amazing service life from the battery, but the AGM may not be at better than 85% at best. I'm banking that my Sport's regulator and stator will thank me!

Also note that AGM batteries have a different SOC scale. Some of your other batteries may be conventional wet cell, or "flooded," and are 100% at 12.65v @ 77ºF/25ºC (temperature affects voltage significantly - download a good table for reference). An AGM at 12.65 is about 85% and should be charged. That PC680 might respond to the method of restoring a deeply discharged AGM posted above that begins with the method gstallons referenced using a known good battery to jumper together until they equalize. Then again, it could be toast.

Voltage is the easiest (only?) way to check state of charge (SOC) on a sealed battery. But: it really takes a series of voltage readings to check the battery's "health." Again, a PC545 AGM that is below 12.65 vDC is input under 6 amps. Best method: record the voltage after no input to the battery for at least 6 hours, discharge (lights on for two or three minutes) and note the voltage. Apply a minimum of 6 amps until the voltage reaches 14.7v (not to exceed15v) and terminate that charge. "Float" or "trickle" a lower amperage (~2.0amps) at 13.5-13.8volts. (Typical chargers float at ~13.10 and will not fully charge [and WILL DAMAGE] your AGM). Hey, I've nursed some of these AGM for nine or ten years never really getting them much above 82%. But, the difference using discharge first and higher amperage initially before correct voltage float is remarkable.

Interesting question . . . I can't find a photo of this Dr. John LeMans from the left side anywhere . . .

Ouch: also, I noticed you started with 2 amps. Odyssey is ADAMANT that the PC545 will NOT charge on less than 6 amps. Meaning, if the PC545 AGM is below 12.65v it will absolutely require a minimum of 6 amps to charge. Do not exceed 15vDC.

One thing I've learned without fail is to first discharge before expecting a battery to do anything (start or charge). Especially if a known low battery goes to full charge very quickly, you must get deeper into the plates and saturate the electrolyte. This can be as simple as recording the OCV (open current voltage or "static" voltage) then connecting a light bulb and letting it burn a few minutes while the voltage stabilizes (record that voltage). Then charge. The last 20% to a full state of charge could certainly take days. Terminate the charge and wait 24 hours to record the OCV. Disharge for a few minutes and record the discharged voltage. (If your charge was effective it will be higher than the last time.) Wait a few minutes while the battery recovers on its own and note the voltage. If it is below 12.65 vDC, repeat the charge procedure. My experience is that the discharge/charge cycle repeated yields amazing results. Always Discharge First!!

Anyone with the chutzpah to show up in armored underwear can ride anything he likes . . . . . . what a guy.

Right? I remember having my canisters off and taking the beast for a blast with just the under-muffler . An intense, flame-throwing blast! Sure the valves probably wouldn't last like that, but it was intense!

Now you're in the neighborhood: Mississippi brewing!

i remember well Chamberlin's naked Norge, but this is taking things a bit far . . . Thanks for the YouTube link - that is some masterful documentary that is such a delight. Thanks, George!

Having not gotten to ride much the last few months, the Sport surprised me the other day on a little spirited jaunt through the hills (I was thinking of the SoCal guys and their amazing climbs just off the coast . . . ) I had, frankly, forgotten about the airbox bellmouth modification, but the lovely tone and acoustic sonority immediately reminded me! It occurred to me that this primary *glass mandrel* provided the elusive answer to the desire to change the stock airbox . . . The stock airbox is obviously just too yang and needs a good dose of yin for proper balance in the universe. And I thought it was all about science and Bernouli and such . . . That it comes form "Evil Twin" makes it ever-so-much-more right!

The vent and overflow can be routed into the same drain, but probably best to take that to atmosphere somewhere below the engine. Factory routing was between the starter and gearbox, then zip-tied to the oil return elbow on the back of the sump. I've seen more dubious airbox mods . . . . including my own. (Which I absolutely love )

Perfect! Nothing like a valve adjustment/fresh plugs and a synch!