docc

Alternate tightening method: Once the (lubricated) filter gasket makes contact, turn an additional 1 and 1/8 (one full plus one-eighth) turns.

trasmissione posteriore, what we English speakers would call the Rear Drive or Bevel Box. Not the "gearbox" which we English speakers might call the "transmission."

Good linkage alignment: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18593&p=198257

I swear there is a post somewhere with a photo of two different length actuating rods. Others remember this? Where is it?

There are more than a couple "accepted" procedures for performing the tune-up. Sounds like yours could use a do-over. Zeroing the CO and baselining the TPS are certainly critical first steps along with "world" valve specs. It is quite easy to not get the right throttle plate entirely closed (for several reasons) causing the ECU to be reading the map in the wrong rpm range. Also, quite common to want the motor to idle too low. The AXONE will confirm the actual idle rpm relative to any tachometer error. Finally, the throttle body balance is best performed "off idle" (perhaps above 2000 rpm) while the air bypass screws may be used to fine tune the idle balance (I find mine runs best with the air bypass out about one full turn, not the Workshop Manual procedure calling for 1/2 turn.

That was a great time riding the bridges with you guys and lunching at The Manatee River! Looks like baffi e Chiacchieroni may only make it as far as the Cumberland Plateau this year!

Even though I had "just" worked the pistons and bled the front brakes 20 months/7500 miles ago, this procedure makes a remarkable difference in braking and feel. Plus, I subdued St. Vitus' possession of my Veglia by pressing the lower angle drive back together and tightening it snugly to the gearbox. I'm not saying it's "rock steady," but jiggles about 5 mph. Instead of the sporadic flicks from 40-100 mph when St. Vitus was having his evil way.

Oh, dear! What have I done?!? Seriously, ya'll: do this/ love your front Brembo Serie Oro:

I am mounting a fresh Pirelli Angel to the front (the 18th front I've fitted!). It is tempting just to remount the wheel, but I am following my *own* sage advice (also known as : good things I've learned from this forum!) , and am thoroughly cleaning and freeing the eight brake pistons. Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist

I feel better already.

To the original post: horns, tach and charging issues? Relay#2 (possibly combined with Relay#1) and concerns for grounding issues: Use the best possible relays (OMRON), tighten the battery terminals and service all grounds. Consider servicing the ignition switch.

Oh, please: The Original Spine Frame! I suppose we'll let you off easy on the Sport.

Having manged to lay in a few hundred miles in the last few days, I worried. And I wondered . . . Will my third Veglia speedo carry me through to 100,000 miles? Especially now that it has gotten the Saint Vitus Dance Thinking I better get those SpeedHut on the way . . .

Well you are right in thinking that I can't have measured the thickness of the plate very accurately - short of removing the clutch the only way to do it was using a caliper through the inspection hole. It looked pretty much un-worn but I wouldn't like to put a figure on it. However, I'm unconvinced that a friction plate can be worn out after less than 1mm wear. In theory the thickness of the friction material should be of no consequence providing there is some friction material left. The friction material does not provide structural strength to the plate, this is the job of the inner steel core, so loss of friction material as the plate wears should not cause any problems apart from the lack of adjustment one I've experienced. After all, a similar single plate diaphragm design is used in virtually all car clutches, which regularly last 100,000 miles, despite being given a much harder time than my clutch ever gets. I wonder whether the reports of clutch plates being "worn out" at low mileages are actually other people suffering the same lack of adjustment problem as me? What you fail to understand is that clutch slippage from a worn friction plate is due to the fact that the pressure plate travel reaches its limit at the engaged end of the travel and therefore cant apply the same degree of spring pressure.This is usually signified by slipping and running out of actuating free play which is what you have. Clutch fiction plate thickness reduction of 1mm would be a worn out clutch. Ciao Why would shimming the slave make any difference then?

I do *remember* that thread . . .

Yeah, buddy, jumping the two main blades would bypass the relay. While your symptoms smack of Relay 2, this is also the function if Fuse 5 (have a look . . . .) and power must make it to Relay 2 through the five pin Relay 1 (you do have a 5-pin in Relay 1?)

Which one is that? (Sorry - I can't keep the alternatives straight at this point . . . )

Easily done with packing tape! I also carry a Fresnel lens for ocular assistance.

I certainly like my 160. I wouldn't say that it steers "quicker" (I know this is all relative and subjective), maybe just more *connected* between the front and rear. I've always said about tyres, "Worth trying something new. If I don't like it, it'll be worn out before long." Of course, I say that, but am pretty stuck on using the Pirelli Angel GT in 160.

The shift rod ends on my sport are stamped "DURBAL" I had no idea they had composite bearing material. Good thing, 'cause I've never lubed them.

Read this phrase in an auto magazine regarding differences in performance that aren't significant in a real world setting: "within the noise." I thought this likely reflects my thinking that the rubber or urethane could limit suspension travel - yeah, could be, probably "wiithin the noise." What rod ends would need nil lubrication?

That's good question. I really like the design (look) of the V11 rod. I think it suits the various design features of the bike overall. I realize that 1) it's not terribly visible, and 2) that's a purely cosmetic reason. I continue to ponder that the suspension travel would be less impeded by using rose joint/Heim joint ends. How much less? Not known, but surely it would be better to have the suspension rise and fall without "flex of the bushes" (as MartyNZ stated). Could easily be one of those things that makes theoretical sense, yet has no appreciable practical difference. Like the 15 pounds I took off the Sport's rear end. That's like 2% of the bike's weight with me on it.

Great news! Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I thought about moving it to "How to . . ." but the title is descriptive and a proper search should show the thread for future searches. So, could you peer in and get a sense of the status on the chain tensioner?

You know what V11 riders do when the doctor says, "No more V11." Find a new doctor . . . . (Glad to hear you're doin' better, g!)

Every blues drummer with a bright green Guzzi needs 430 hp of *arrest-me-red* That 'vette is freakin' gorgeous!