docc

It is very interesting the critical nature of the TPS baseline with the throttle plate COMPLETELY closed (including releasing all screws, connections and the high idle system as well as cleaning the throttle plate in the bore), and that 156 mV is the actual measure. I would consider this Step One. @ggo: No, your PCIII won't read or adjust the CO trim, which is often set "~minus 30" from the factory. My thinking: CO trim is Step Two. Bleed screw settings are from the closed position. Mine get quite sooty and benefit from a cleaning of the screw tips and their receptacles (every valve adjustment?) Here, I may disagree with Meinolf and Kiwi_Roy, but if the screws are going to bleed air, shouldn't that be taken into consideration in the final AFR and synchronization? Absolutely agreed that, once all the baselines are set (TPS, CO, valves, careful synchronization) that the idle can go where you like. Some like a low, grumpy idle (shows off the cam!), while I like mine up a bit; seems much more stable in the higher ambient temps in my region (>90ºF/32ºC).

Modified airbox (like open-top or drilled top)?

Footgoose, Sent you a pm . . . thanks!!

'tis the season!

I used to take my taps in and out, replacing them with the screws, which finally led to a HeliCoil. Now I use rubber caps on the nipples and carry extras in case one tears or comes off.

On the cusp of rolling over 100,000 miles, people ask what I need to do to the Sport. Bearings? Rings? Cam? Gearbox? No, but, ooh, but that seat comes to mind! Anyone have an early seat pan I could have my way with? Having had a Corbin (Café GL1000) which seemed so hard, and seen the good quality of both Sargent's and Rich Maund seats, I would be most inclined to have my local guys fit one to my particular case; and go back to have them reshape it a bit if necessary. Hmm, an early seat pan . . . Anymore, foam products are so complex . . . I'd consider a dual layer, or "duplex" approach to balance support with a comfort layer. I'd sure like to come across an old seat pan . . .

That sure beats pulling the front cover, which the hardest part of the valve adjustment. @Gottagetone, you'll be pleasantly surprised how your V11 responds to the complete tune-up. Sticks and stones aside, a digital voltmeter and guzzidiag make the process a breeze along with the correct three cables. This will allow you to set the baselines on the TPS, CO fuel trim, and idle speed before the throttle body synch. Sounds like a lot, but it's do-able and the bike will likely run great!

Make sure your valves are cool when you adjust them (not necessarily stone cold!) [/url]">http://http://s28.photobucket.com/user/docchaynes/media/IMG_0277.jpg.html'>

It just sounds so cool to say, "Carillo rods." Like saying "Crane cam."

After the valves are adjusted, repeat the synchronization. If possible, use guzzidiag (or similar) to zero the CO/ fuel trim.

Eastwood Diamond Clear? Used it for other applications - not sure about carbon fiber . . .

If the exhaust has been apart, it wouldn't hurt to go back over it and snug everything up. Perhaps, a comprehensive *tune-up* is in order.

Doesn't a proper tune on a V11 make us all Instrument Techs?

Would be nice if you told us the bike your dealing with. I assume, from the above statement, and your "list"... 02 V11 Le Mans, '08 1200 4V Sport, ...that it's the '08 1200 4V Sport? Uh-oh . . . I was assuming the 2002 V11 LeMans?

Sure the valve train is "noisy", but probably more noticable at idle. No front cross-over on an '02, but the exhaust is a good place to start. My lower "box" cross-over had a loose baffle that rattled. Also, the steering damper mount can loosen from the lower triple tree. Check also the sidestand fasteners and mounting bolts for the front sub-frame to engine, oil cooler brackets, and (again) the header pipe flanges.

Checked your valve adjustment?

Timing chain tensioner? Maybe a loose exhaust junction, or loose baffle inside the stock crossover (behind the gearbox)?

Nice, man! It'll be great to some pics of the mounting and outcome! These high-mount Titanio are really sweet looking a V11 - really tightens up the tail. The tail of my Sport looks more like the chest of Banana Republic general sitting in a big armchair.

Last night I played off and on for several hours finally checking tube temps after the amp had been on for maybe four or five hours. I'm not sure what any of the parts are inside the "valve" but there is a hot spot glowing right in the middle. Aiming my infrared reader very carefully with the laser, both 6L6 output tubes were 346-350ºF and the rectifier, about 250. So, while they look plenty similar, I'm still really amazed how hot they get! I still need to get on those links you guys posted and study up. As soon as The Blues stops getting in the way . . .

Seems prudent to "drop the basket." Placing the forward mounts of the battery cage under the subframe instead of on top makes for better clearance under the seat pan.

Thanks again, guys! Looks like I've got some studying-up to get on with! As soon as I can put this guitar down . . .

The Fender's been on for a little over an hour, played it some in that time at about 1/4 volume and the output tube temps look almost identical (~340ºF) I do have an owner's manual, so can look at the bias control (the manual is not very informative) and read further on the "red-plating" business. Thanks, gents!

This is a new experience for me! How would I know of the "red plating?" Is it visible on the glass like "silvering" on a light bulb? Seems like the other output tube was ~275ºF, but I'll recheck it in a few minutes after it warms up. I understand this second gen Bassman RI, has a bias adjustment, but I don't know where it is or how to set it . . . If it had a TPS and a tight tappet, I'd be all in!

Having all 5-pin relays is the answer to moving them around and mistakenly putting a 4-pin in the front position. After moving or replacing relays and loosing (or rearranging) my labeling, I put the labels on the flat of the tail section beside the relay positions.

It's a little chilly, now, here in The Den. But those 6L6 outputs heat up to some serious temps. Should I worry that one of them gets to some 325ºF? Seems pretty cozy to me!