docc

Oh, my! What an outstanding result!

Only had to trailer home once in 92,757 miles when I let one of the yellow wires break coming from the stator under the alternator cover. The dying Hawker got me about halfway home . . .

Meaning for the bevel/final drive? Or as an alternate for the transmission? Good question, for sure. The gearbox/6speed/in American: "transmission" (that has the gear sets in it and that side plate shifting mechanism with the pi$$y springs). The Italian manuals call it the "cambio." The bevel box/ rear drive/ American slang: "the chunk", in Italian - "trasmissione posteriore." In the manuals, see that "trasmissione secondaria" (final drive") includes the bevel box and the cardan shaft assembly. So, this thread is about the "gearbox" not the final drive, so no moly specification. Yet, the RedLine ShockProof (they make other gear oil products that are not specified "ShockProof") are said to contain a "synthetic moly" good for both the gearbox and especially, the bevel box. 'Heavy in the bevel" seems the correct spec from Redline (again, cautions against overfilling! Internal pressures at operating temperatures are likely higher than factory.) I've never used RLSP heavy in my gearbox, only the lightweight. Lots of other oils, too, but +1 on the better shifting. Numerous members have reported this consistently over the years. Your gearbox will likely love you back . . . whether the Lightweight (blue) or Heavy (pink). I know an extraordinary V11 rider with high sport mileage that uses Superlight in both . . .

+1 on the RedLine Shockproof - but avoid overfilling as it is VERY clingy! I am also an RLSP "Lightweight" advocate for the gearbox (blue milkshake).

AKA "work hardening?" Worries me that would produce brittleness, fatigue, and failure.

FWIW, the nylon siphon hose was so gummy and funky, I could not put it back aboard. I suppose I'll add a length of fuel line instead. Nylon + fuel = ugh

Hmmmm, bending springs. This is surely a black art.

The published compression ratio of the early V11 is 9.3:1. Were the later motors different?

I had always imagined that if I had my motor down, I would want to have it balanced, "blueprinted," and polished rods simply because the original Telaio Rosso V7 was so done and it would make for interesting shop talk. I suspect it would impart a 'sweetness' to the running as well. (Seems to me the flywheel would have to be in on the balancing act as well.)

Is that not Imme that used the exhaust pipe as swingarm?

I like the antique finish (matches my own!) - Take care the rivets do not swing back and forth marking your triple clamp.

Let's consider those posts more of a contribution than an "answer." Looking forward to more contributions !

- thanks for looking. like. share . . . No, really, the better kit you and I travel with, the quicker we get off the side of road!

You guys don't think all this kit might be affecting my fuel economy or tire wear? Forgot to mention the lights. Princeton Tec tactical LED headband with retractable red lens (3 AAA batteries), and an Infinity TaskLight that will light its single white LED on one burned out AA. I've used dead batteries out of other devices and still had light (zipped to an ALICE clip):

Left (the "downside", as the bike's always leaned over toward you on the side of the road. I learned to be mindful of this as your tools could slide out onto the fog stripe when you zip the case open . . .like mine might have ) Simple faceshield service: 1) washcloth wetted with water, a little liquid soap, and a douse of white vinegar closed up in a zip-lock and rolled around a clean, dry washcloth; Fog Proof cloth for faceshield/glasses from Scotts or Smith - the goggle people; Tool roll with combination wrenches 8mm and 10-14. locking needle nose (AKA temporary foot lever), 6" Channel locks, wire cutters, more zip-ties, more nitrile gloves (for you!), another shop-rag-in-a-bag, strips of leather, a length of hack saw blade (combined with locking pliers makes a saw!), electrical test light, gaffer's (electrical) tape, and a crosshead screwdriver ground for bite ("Phillip's head" screwdrivers are designed to cam out of the screw head commonly tearing the screw head especially on removal. Which is exactly what we're up to "Fixin' it on the Road!") Oh, and a corkscrew. She'll thank you for this!

Right (offside) pannier lined with a heavy trash bag: "Slime" compressor, Progressive tapered tire plugs (amazing! - a quantum leap beyond the "beef jerky" rope plugs), jumper cables, siphon hose, volt-ohm meter, vacuum caps with zipper pull parts, butane lighter, spare custom molded ear plugs, Leatherman tool, safety wire, metric hex drive set, pens (including a red Sharpie to scribe times and vital signs on the skin), five feet of 12 gauge electrical wire. *Disclaimer* - Please don't do anything that makes me write on you with my Sharpie

Hey, before we put the seat back on, consider making some labels for your relays, and what the fuses actually do. The fuse chart is just ink printed, laminated in packing tape and taped upside down so its visible leaning over the mount-side of the bike.

I take that as being granted a wide berth for behavior by the OP! Much of this I learned from being in league with capable riders, well prepared. So, from here, I've got to get out the Tekno panniers and see what we find . . . (I'm still trying figure how to get all this stuffed back in those little places under the seat.

The early tail cowl has a fabric liner that anchors under a trim ring. If you have one, make sure its still sealed. In the tail cowl: Relays, little zip-ties, spark plugs (usually last year take-offs, currently all new), a plug resistor (or, ideally, a couple spare caps, but I just gave mine away), self-adhering "Extreme Tape," 1157 bulb only (here in the eastern States a headlight bulb or turn signal bulb is never far away 24/7, but I won't ride with out a brake light), relays, tire gauge in bubble wrap, ten spare ATC fuses (even a dinky 30 amp for your bike) and a 30 amp MAXI (with LED fail warning, for my bike), and . . . let's see, did I mention the relays? I keep a full complement of five OMRON in a foam bag (for my bike), and , (right now) a couple Bosch and 'big' Siemans (for your bike ). Always carry extra relays for you and your buddy, all five blade. Get rid of the four pins -

Ok, I apologize in advance. First that this is going to take me several posts (no hijack intentions!), and second, that all the photos are hosted courtesy of imgzeit . . . Under the seat are two storage ares: In the States, the "tool tray" was delivered with two carbon canisters attached to 20 feet (yes, six meters, 5 pounds(7kg!) of half inch fuel line. I, er, relocated that ; / Now the tool tray holds: 3-4 heavy duty, long zip-ties (steel teeth!), nitrile gloves, 2 shop rags, vehicle documents and coin-of-the-realm zip-locked, (3) sealed Callison wiring diagrams with a doccChart, and a Fresnel lens (some of you know why ______Oh, and the factory tool roll (keep oiled). That's the tool tray:

I have wondered about the change in oil capacity. If the sump is lowered (for the plate), how much volume must be added for the pick-up to realize a "full" level?

After my years here, I think I have used up my allotment for local hosting. And that's after deleting all the extraneous photos of various libations considered elemental to the V11 experience . . .

That is correct on the bulb. I tried running "hotter" ones like Sylvania Silver Star, but while I like the brightness, they just do not last. By all means, please send by a paella and a nice Spanish lady. I hear they all have long legs.

That is correct. Only the earliest Sports/ pre-Rosso Mandello. And yes, one can jack up his suspension settings enough to eliminate all forgiving margins. This can be followed by the sound of bouncing off the air dam of a BMW sedan. Experience is often the simple accumulation of bad judgement.

seems prices are consistently on the rise.