docc

That's noble, man! i thought I had your alibi covered . ..

While I thought I had this "melting/scorched"30 amp fuse issue solved by improving connections/ contact, this obviously is not so. The question of applying external charging current has come up. Josh suggested monitoring fuse temperature during external charging. I have a vague recollection of reading a recommendation to isolate the charging circuit (pull the 30 amp fuse) during external charging. I have never done so and will have to try and find that reference. Perhaps the too-common melted 30 amp fuse issue is from applying chargers?

Factory 30 amp fuse is an "ATC" in the factory fuse block, position 3 from the front. (I added the MAXI fuse after trouble with melting the smaller fuses.) Agreed that the common wisdom is that heat = poor connection. But, sheesh, I really thought I had this addressed with the MAXI fuse installation (much bigger connection blades). I am suspicious of using an external charger. I will endeavor to remove the 30 amp charging fuse during external charging and report back in eight years . . .

If only JRD would have made it . . . Word has it, it was so cold in the North Georgia mountains that when he stuck his tongue to the frosty clip-ons, he couldn't reach the shifter to get into gear and head our way . . .

Yet, at this point, the holder will also be trashed. While the bike's charging system is reliable, I wonder if it relates to the way I charge the battery (EnerSys Ultimizer designed for the Hawker Odyssey). I remember reading somewhere in all that research about maybe removing this fuse during external charging (?) Is the regulator also vulnerable to external charging input?

Looks like if the fuse ever finally failed at the red arrow, my *clever* SmartFuse LED would not light as I had hoped.

I know some have removed this fuse entirely. What does it actually "protect" if it can go this bad and not open the circuit? What is the downside of completely removing it? *conflagration*?

Now this is beginning to really piss me off. My Sport used to melt its 30 amp "regulator/ charging" ATC fuse in its fuse block without "blowing the fuse." So, I added an external holder and it did the same thing. So, I modified the holder, improved the connections and it burned off one of the blades. Still without "blowing" the fuse. So, I soldered in the MAXI fuse holder in 2008 and all has been well. Until today, looking into a failed turn signal flasher, I noticed the case of the 30 amp MAXI "Smart" fuse had opened up slightly. I couldn't pull it out by hand, so carried on with our ride until I got home. Took some electrical cleaner, electrician's pliers, and a good deal of force to extract the fuse. All melted and burned up. Still without "blowing" the fuse.

Sweet, man! The tank badge came out great. Gotta love the chorus to the video's theme song: "Pick up the pieces when I explode."

Some recurring themes cannot be escaped . . .

I'm not sure if the sign is an advertisement or a protest, but we rallied to it!

If just one more V11 would have showed up, this would have been the [second or third] biggest interdimensional cross-rip since the Tunguska Blast . . . https://www.getyarn.io/yarn-clip/d02d7bb8-ea42-456d-a367-15638c4efbe7 (I'm not naming any names, but his initials are JRD )

At least we know what's causing it . . . Some people are crazy and no one knows why . . .

As for voltages, charging voltage should be 14.2+. Static/ OCV ("open current voltage" measured after no inputs or discharge for 24 hours) should be 12.84 vDC. What's your key off battery voltage after 24 hours?

That could mean a lot of things. This is one the V11's Achilles' heels. Sure, GEI (and others) are probably *fine*, but the OMRON are seriously the best. Fresh 5-pin OMRON in all the slots would be solid, cheap method. Disconnecting, cleaning (with electronics cleaner) and reconnecting the various sensors (especially temperature sensors) would also be good method. When cold, guzzidiag should show that the Engine Temp and the Air Temp are the same (?)

These are more "Tenni" green. In fact, I wonder if the original green Moto Guzzi race paint was also simply zinc chromate (?)

Could be normal valve train noise. Have you adjusted the valves? Otherwise, run it in the dark and look for electrical arcing from the spark plug wires.

Not really a good idea.. + 1 ! Be patient and get it ready for that maiden voyage. It'll be worth it!