docc

This is going to be so cool!

I unloaded quite a lot in my post above. When you say,"The brass temperature sensor: This problem really showed up when I installed it after struggling to remove the old crumbly one." - that sounds like a great starting point. Also, it's easy to unplug the TPS and hook up a sensitive Ohm meter and watch the resistance change as you slowly open and close the TPS. If there are any *jumps*, ditch it for a new one. That was the last straw making my Sport jumpy. Otherwise, being able to run pure premium gasoline has made an extraordinary difference as well.

>Clean the ignition switch >What are you running for relays? >Remove the spark plug wire caps at the coils and inspect for ugliness. >Melting or charred 30 amp fuse? >Remove the brass idle air bypass screws and clean them along with spraying out the passages. >The brass temperature sensor holder gave my Sport fits. I would only consider it an "upgrade" if the plastic one keeps breaking. This links to a thread that traces my odyssey of chasing the Nasty Hiccup in my Sport for over a year (warning: over 120 posts ) which revealed numerous faults and culminated in discovering the TPS had a little glitch that I only discovered with a careful resistance test while rotating it (it did not show up watching the transition in millivolts, at least not with my meter). Also: a synopsis of my experience with various Engine Temperature Sensor holders (YMMV! )

I'm vague on this , too: if the slave leaks forward along its shaft, will the fluid go clear through to the bell housing (and dribble out the weep hole), or would it flow into the gearbox oil?

Charging looks good, and 10.5 cranking the starter is not bad. But under 12.65 is an indication to charge before riding. Under 12.5 may require special attention to get the charge optimal. My experience is : letting the battery get below ~85% (12.65v) and expecting the bike's charging system to bring it back up, or expecting a "trickle charger" to bring it back up , is likely to give you disappointment.

Moved here from Tech Topics by popular demand . . .

sp838's intake: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=1343

The nuts are off the deck about 10 1/2 inches with the front up about an inch in the Sport Chock.

A volunteer! Please measure the height of the lower porkchop bolt off the floor when stand up. Also, how high is the rear tyre off the ground? With the preload cranked up on my Ohlins, I have to put a 4x4 block under the factory stand handle to get the rear tire to clear the floor about an inch.

Looking forward to seeing what you'll come up with. Saw these decelerometer brake lights that are fitted to the (US size) license plate frame: http://vololights.com/

You guys in SoCal have a special situation. Here in the "sunny" south, riding in a group with a chopped fender will rooster tail road crap on your buddies and might not get you another invitation to come along. Of course my rear fender looks like the chest of a Mexican general.

I put that Aerostich unit on my Sport as a back-up for burned out bulbs or tail light failure. It is rather dim and highly directional. Even after I shimmed it to angle up toward driver's eyes, it is just not very bright. Its advantage is that it has tail light, brake light and turn signals.

The factory stand captures the two nuts on the very bottom attachment of the porkchops that through-bolts under the back of the gearbox.

Rear wheel removed, Guzzi on stand: many of us do not need to remove the wheel as stated before, "on stand" is enough. Here's a pic of the grease nipple. Holy Cow--that thing is BARELY visible... And we're supposed to get a grease gun fitting on that?? Another task to add to my list for this weekend... I think this is some kind of V11 Sport New Owner Initiation Rite. It sure baffled me at first. Do the long time members sort of enjoy watching all us newbies go through our trials? Agreed. Some nefarious rite of initiation.... Still, this is actually my second Guzzi, so scaring me off isn't working I'm going to give greasing it a go this weekend. I don't exactly have tiny hands or a surgeon's precision, so I'll see how it goes... I hear the faint peel of drums in the hills . . . . . . it always starts good . . . then . . . The Annoying Thing happens!

Looks like : "All of the Above." I wonder how much i can mill off of it and the collar still function?

I also just noticed how our right foot/ankle rides just centimeters from that stressed, spinning mass. In the old muscle cars/hot rods we would call that a "scatter shield." My parts manual calls it the "Front Protection."

I figure it is to contain the shaft in the event the front U-joint frags, *possibly* preventing a rear wheel lock-up. As such, I'm reluctant to delete mine.

I'm absolutely certain I've gotten grease into my front once (or twice) in 93,000 miles. There is still no real discernible reason why some of the V11 (perhaps just the short frames) are so %$#%^^&& difficult. Next time my swingarm is off, I'll be making a generous relief cut in the safety collar.

Ok , I see it now by turning my head sideways and squinting. If you rotate the shaft about another 60˚ clockwise, the cross should open enough to (maybe) see or feel the Zerk in the center of the cross facing back. Best way I've found to angle the shaft down enough is to remove the rear wheel and remove the bevel box carefully separating the shaft.

Zooter, I can't even see a U-joint in your photo. My rear U-joint spit its grease fitting off at some point and I found it simply missing.

If the South'n Spine Raid is any indication, don't count anyone out til the side stands come up; not unusual for riders to watch and wait, then show up at the meet point if they can. Consider posting a departure point and a time, then hang out there for about an hour and see what rumbles in! Otherwise, with these rare bikes: two makes a rallye!

For sure, the later long frames are hard enough to get on the front U-joint. Short frames? Beastly. Still not sure exactly why.

That looks to be taken from behind, looking forward through the swimgarm tunnel above the shaft (maybe with the bevel box and rear wheel removed?)

I used to date that very same girl! Does that make us brothers?

I would venture that a Rosso Mandello would adjust well for more open exhaust with a complete tune-up (including TPS and throttle body balance), and being sure that the CO is proper and not fabulously lean. That said, I would really like to learn this guzzidiag thing.