docc

That would be the easiest thing to change: delete the PC and see what happens . . . Otherwise, I would look for power dropping out from the ignition switch or the relays.

Sheez, man, I listed all that stuff I carry on the Sport and I forgot the pie!

I added this service point and warning to the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist. Thanks, Sean, for taking time to share this concern!

While the bike is on the computer, be sure to have the technician set the CO trim, that the valves are 0.006"/0.008", fresh plugs, and the TPS set before synchronizing the throttle bodies. Inspect the main 30 amp fuse for signs of heat damage and be sure you are running high quality relays. It would also be worth cleaning the ignition switch contacts and inspecting its internal wiring. The TPS, itself, can develop a glitch right at its most common openings which can cause a nasty hiccup.

That is the usual location per the manual. I suppose we can make this the next Tech Session at the Eleventh South'n Spine Raid and look a few of them over all at once. Or maybe a poll - we haven't had one of those for a while! When we say "behind the seat latch," the standard location is most easily accessed by removing the seat latch, but the ground should not actually be fastened by the seat latch bolt. I can't see anything in the diagrams that would block the fastener, or shift, with just that one bolt removed. Maybe someone with gearbox experience (Andy York ) could chime in?

Oh, man - got those V11 blues, baby!

I think this is taken from their performance in Frankfort, 2006. "All the Roadrunning" seems a propos for V11 music!

There are, apparently, more than location for the ground/ earth cable depending on Luigi's whim, perhaps, or subsequent technician's reassembly. The manual shows it under the 11:00 position looking forward at the output shaft cover. Although, Kiwi_Roy found his under the seat latch bracket and moved it outboard to the 1:00 position for easy access. Sean, could you take a photo or describe where yours is located?

Are you still using the ECU that had been opened and the connector modified?

If the bike is sitting still while you tune and balance, be sure to blow a big fan over the motor constantly. Are you using a shop stand of some kind to keep the bike vertical?

Those polished symmetrical guards look nice! Not sure what shipping is like to the States from The Vale of Galmorgan. Sounds like a place you would need the entire Fellowship of the Ring to get your head guards out! Although, one of the things I like about my Joe Kenney guards is the way the factory bolts recess into the guard:

I love my Joe Kenney guards. Way better protection than stock. Hey, C'zak: got any pictures of the ones you're looking at? (let's face it - the guards aren't so much for the head, but the spark plug and angled resistor cap. Even a silly little tip-over can strand you unless these are protected and/or you have spares.) EDIT: I just bought a spare set of the red 90˚ Champion spark plug resistor caps on US ebay from Green Spark Plug Company LTD in UK for 13.88 USD. They are designated: Champion Spark Plug Cap PRO5M Red I know those aren't "head guards," but figure on carrying your last spark plugs on board as well!

Updated, once again, with new links and deletion of dead links. Some of what is linked does not require tank removal, and not all of this needs to be done every time, but The Checklists are likely the only single posts that link much of the forum's archived knowledge and experience. Oktoberfest 2015 (testbed):

After monitoring this forum for these many years, I just haven't seen this as a recurring issue; kind of like the "soft valves/ bad guides" - it just has not materialized as predicted on a widespread basis. I'm sure when I do my eventual major tear-down, something should be done about cam timing, but to dive onto it without any indication that your cam timing is jumping around and causing problems?

I think we could just be getting started on your V11 stories!

I believe the bolt pattern is the same, but the valve cover itself is different. Be sure the inboard side of the headguard clears the contour around the valve cover.

Thanks for reposting that. I couldn't remember if you added a new hole or changed hole sizes - I completely forgot that you blocked a hole off!

Wait, what? I should be bracing for my fifth chain! (I don't believe I've had the timing chest open . . . I guess I should put this on my 200.000 km service list.)

That leaves you with a nice matched pair! How does one manage to land two V11?

Looks like a fun project. At least there's a hammer in the picture. That makes it OK. hahaa! I missed that! A true mark of mechanical devotion!

That's why I can't find that post... These are MUCH better times here! A credit to our current community!

Are those V11 triple clamps?

In case you haven't already: The Brembo hand levers are pinned through to a spring steel nut that is prone to going missing. Sure, you can cinch it up and check it regularly, but it is considered good method to slip a "zip-tie" around to secure the assembly. It is certainly something you don't want to find missing!

Springs are easy, but the forks probably should be mounted to the bike to get preliminary sag measurements to determine the best spring for your weight and style. Oil selection goes a long way toward tuning the damping, but is no substitute for altering the high speed damping internally. AFAIK, GuzziMoto is the only member who has ventured into altering the porting inside the Marzocchis. In fact, I'd like to invite him to re-post his method here since much of that was lost to the hyperbole of Another Time . . . 41mm 'zocchs oughta look pretty beefy on a CB!

Looks like Gregg has a Corbin FS in Australia . . .