docc

Dimitris, What are the tire sizes? (I assume they are Pirelli from the factory, but ? ? ? )

The tail lamp's only getting 3-6 volts? I'd expose all the connections between the tail section and the fender assembly; not hard just fiddly. Look for a pinch in loom. All those bullet connectors in that area are like the two nefarious "bullet connectors" for the dicey clutch switch. They all benefit from a clean and crimp.

Silver is the new evil thing.

If there is power at Fuse 6, then it is not likely the ignition switch and perhaps the high voltage has fried a variety of bulb filaments.

The contacts for the bulb deep inside the fixture are notorious for flattening out and loosing contact with the bulb. Reshape them and make sure the bulbs are both good. Otherwise, the wiring can get pinched up under the tail section. It's a bit of a pisser to get to, but worth the time to groom and lightly zip-tie out of harm's way.

I got my Champion red caps from the UK in ten days. Pretty amazing!

Here's an ignition switch thread that has links to others. I agree it's odd. Do you have power at Fuse 6 with the ignition on?

Only the front/Starter Relay requires 5-pins, but they will seat in all the positions and be available to move around if necessary. I remain a devoted OMRON fan. Do the turn indicators work? (I'm thinking like Kiwi_Roy in post#5, test for power at Fuse 6 - if none, inspect the inside of the ignition switch.)

Wow - a 2003 built in February 2002. So much for the theory about what month the factory transitioned model years. Jerry, canister changes typically don't require remapping, but expect some careful tuning.

Fabulous! I love this thread! Wow: Robben Ford "Freedom" - maybe my newest V11 anthem!

What's the tenth character on the VIN?

There are other pics of switches with one wire off. If you don't mind, post a pic of it repaired with all the wires in the right spot. Good luck!

Battery condition is also a driving force behind what the regulator/ charging will do (although voltage should never go much over 14.2 if i understand correctly). It is easy to do the full series of voltage tests and assess whether the battery should be conditioned with off-board chargers instead of the bike's circuits. Especially important for batteries that have sat all winter and need "bringing up."

Here is a thread started by Kiwi_Roy that should have the information you need: Ignition Switch Problems

I would start with a fresh battery or attempt to recondition yours. Yeah, anything over 14.2 is probably too high.

Release, clean, and re-tighten every connection you can get to. Recheck any connection you added (crimped, soldered, screwed, or twisted together). (Not that I ever made anything more dodgy by *fixing* it myself.) Or maybe evidence of busy Wisconsin winter mice nibbling at the harness?

Stunning! I love this!

Does the horn blow?

Simply unplug the PC and jack back directly to the ECU. (Apparently, we should wait some period of time after the key has been on to unplug the ECU?) Try the bike without the PC. Step 2: perform a complete tune-up starting with having the CO set, fresh spark plugs, and adjusting the valves then finishing with TPS setting, throttle body balance.

Possibly more than one problem at the same time. Be certain the headlamp bulb is good, both filaments. The tail lamp is susceptible to the contacts deep in the fixture weakening and not contacting the bulb base well. You can bend them outward and shape them to make a solid contact with the bulb base. Check also for 1) tach works? 2) tach and speedo have illumination? 3) warning lights between the tach and speedo all come on? 4) small low-watt "city light" in the headamp shell is lit? 5) tag light is lit?

This may be a bit premature, and simultaneously behindhand, to suggest a little get-together (raduno) in the Clearwater, Florida, area on the first weekend of May (probably Sunday the Third). My *Grand Plan* is to trailer my Sport and my son Nic's café V7 to the area to meet up with my brother and his equally café Yamaha SR500 ("Eeyore") for lunch (maybe Frenchy's on Clearwater Beach?) and a 'jaunt' down the Gulf beaches and back and forth across the Sunshine Skyway to alight in downtown St. Pete . We had started a little "vintage" ride up here in middle Tennessee a couple years ago that grew to be called "Whiskers & Spanners" which (kind of) translates into the Italian, "Baffi e Chiavi." Apparently, that also translates as "Moustache and Keys" but I like that, too! Further, equally sketchy and slippery, details to come!

I'd like to see a pic that tail pack mounted. Nelson-Rigg has impressed me with caring and prompt customer service on top of their good products. Hmmmm, Clearwater, Florida? You're not far from czakky in St. Pete. Look for an informal gathering ("raduno") on the first weekend in May starting either in Safety Harbor or maybe out at Frenchy's on the beach, drag our way down the Gulf beaches and across the Skyway (back and forth) to end up in downtown St. Pete. (yeah, sketchy details for a sketchy plan . . . I went ahead and posted something in Meetings, Clubs & Events as my plans to get back to Pinellas County firm up at least to a consistency of, say, mascarpone.

All of the above, (although I installed a 30 amp "MAXI fuse" to sort the hot fuse issue), but also be sure your battery is truly in good fettle. These AGM batteries are not "maintenance free" IMHO.

Too cool! Great observation! I found mine *just* touching and rotated the regulator using a 20mm open end wrench on the tank connection. While this may not apply to later tanks with all the internal kit, this is a definite "check point!" (added to the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist) Thanks, JB!!

At some point, the instrument warning panel changed adding turn indicators for left and right and deleting the battery warning. I thought it was at the switch from Veglia to ITI, but if you guys have an '03 and an '04 that differ, the change occurred independently from the instrument change, perhaps only for 2004. Remember when you bleed the rear brake to remove the caliper and rotate the bleeder to the top side. Also, with the calipers off you can work the pistons in and out while cleaning with brake cleaner until all the pistons move equally, especially on the front!