docc

Are the rubber mounting spacers still used in the inverted (upverted?) position? Yes the rubber mounts are still needed. Tarbaby stuff! I had to remove the ECU again to get to the wire I left off and, of course, two more mounts separate. As iI recall, these are the same mounting blocks for the coils? And for the instruments? I keep using adhesives to put them back together, but I'm sure they're past their "use by" date. Someone had sourced replacements (maybe from McMaster-Carr?) . . . anyone recall the source? (closest I could find/ "Metric, cylindical to 713 kgf): http://vibrationmounts.com/Store.asp?Page=Products1.htm )

Looking like you have five or six new uncles!

Soooo . . . . turns out you don;t need a fire extinguisher if there is no power to back half of the fuse block. Seems, from the wiring diagram, that power to fuses 4 and 5 must trunk off of the battery wire to Fuse 3 which I replaced with a dedicated, separate wire outside the loom. Looks like I need to fish that terminal out from where it's stowed and reconnect it. Good thing I didn't clip it off at the loom . . . EDIT: Yes, that restored power to the Ignition Switch. And I still have 14.2 volts charging.

Thanks, Chuck! Looking to start it up in a couple hours. Guess I oughta have that fire extinguisher handy . . .

Gentleman, I want to thank you all for all of your insight, education, and encouragement. Let's face it, what I'm posting isn't "rated" for anything. *Entertainment Value Only* *Don't Try This At Home* The last time I thought I "fixed" this problem, it took like eight years to fail. So, let me get back to you in about 2025 with an update. Seriously? Do not neglect your #3 / 30 amp, "regulator" fuse. They are are known to overheat.

A guy likes to think he's doing a good job, then he finds out he shouldn't be working on airplanes!

Maybe an MSF Rider Training Course in the spring (might be good to register now, they tend to fill up fast). Good stuff!

That's good advice. I had relieved my original seat, but am using a replacement now and not sure about contact with the connector, so maybe it's time to do this. I left it connector up for year so I could back probe the computer to set the TPS, but with the Caspers Breakout Harness, that is no longer necessary! Are the rubber mounting spacers still used in the inverted (upverted?) position?

Thanks, Chuck. Good to know. I didn't even add a terminal end in order to minimize the number of connections. Perhaps this latest approach will hold for a good long time. Alternate Method E !

The terminals are part of a junction block to get the terminal stack off the battery. I added one on the negative side as well. The only terminals I left on the battery are the main cable to the starter, the charging wire (subject of this thread), and the feed to the junction block. "HRN" is the ATC fuse holder for the direct hot to the two separate relays for the FIAMM horns which ground back to the frame bracket that mounts the Fuel Pump. The "silver thingey" is a 10 amp auto-reset circuit breaker for the hot to the headlamps which are switched by a pair of separate relays in the headlamp bucket. They, too, ground back to the frame. (Photo shows the first attempt at relocating the Regulator Fuse).

Having grown terribly tired of this connection melting and turning to charcoal, without ever opening the fuse, I am determined to get a solid connection: tinned 12 gauge wire soldered to the circuit breaker.

At this point, I am not a fan of "spade" connectors at all. It is worth servicing the bottom of the fuse box where four additional flat/ spade connectors are hidden below Fuses 1 and 2 (ECU and Fuel Injection/coils/fuel pump). The connector to my Fuel Pump/FI fuse was not tight at all. These are the only two fuses that have these extra connections. EDIT: These spade connectors gave me some fits attempting to restart. Two of them did not seat correctly after replacing the fuse block. Fuse One prevented the ECU and Fuel Injection relays from pulling in, then Fuse Two prevented the pump from running. Make sure these connectors are *well connected* if you're having these issues, but the ignition switch and lights are all on.

So, this little green/red wire carries 30 amps from the alternator all the way to the battery? Seems dubiously undersized . . . perhaps it is 14 gauge just going by the notch on my strippers.

Yeah, they had no remorse charging me fifteen bucks. "Cheapest stripper in town!" "A little goes a long way!" "Watch yer eyes!" All this for a tiny homage to Ing. Guilio Carcano that we'll have to get down on one knee to even see. Even then, most everyone will ask why it's still in primer . . . At least if they ask if I've used a good stripper, we can have us a time.

I have the 30 amp circuit breaker in hand. Once "popped" it is 3 inches / 7,5 cm long. Not sure how I'm going to mount it so it has clearance to "pop" and the terminals will be clear of any ground path. The terminals are labelled "LINE" and "LOAD." My understanding is that this sits between the regulator and the battery. Is the battery the "LOAD?" (It is definitely the regulator side that gets hot.)

Just back from the auto parts store where I do a lot of business. Sometimes, it's good to cheer folks up . . . "What d'ya need today, docc?" "I'm here to pick up a stripper. . ." (We got to the "aircraft" part when the howling settled down.

The news feeds I could find did not show anything very exciting for Moto Guzzi. Anyone actually get there and find some excitement at this year's EICMA?

Shameless cross-post:

Haha - I was wondering who was gonna get that . . .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/122215886327?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true