docc

Yeah, these are rather large. Would be great on a long trip with the better half. Where you gonna carry your stuff?

Looking at that picture, it appears the angle of view is slightly front to back accentuating the upper hump. It would good to see a few more views of the Ducati piece. The CEV casting numbers are 358 for the lens and 2255 for the housing. Curious about the numbers on the Ducati part?

Gran Turismo!

I would swear that Ducati part is the exact same CEV part that is on my Sport . . . no?

I noticed that my battery voltage will drop twice as fast with the Garmin Zumo 550 left in the mount. But, you're saying the mount itself (with no GPS in it), hard wired to the battery is an electrical vampire because it is likely chipped?

And little things like the front fender blacked out back half; one of the cleanest exhaust lines ever; the gold tank decals. But those low clip-ons - oh, my aching neck! Interesting to compare to the original Marabese design study for the V11 LeMans.

My experience has been that this could be the single biggest parameter overlooked in the tuning process. I've posted this before, but my factory setting was *minus 27* - I forget what that translated to on the sniffer, but it was amazing how the engine smoothed out as the setting was brought to *0*

Can the CO be set with guzzidiag or do you have to use TunerPro?

I would so try to isolate my fairing from the engine. That red "LeMans" (Sport Corse Extrema?) is perhaps the most beautiful V11 I've ever seen. (Don't let my Sport hear that! )

I think you are right (at least as often as I go through tires!) That said, I had a rear bearing go between tires. I would have caught it if I didn't think, "I'll get another few hundred miles out of this tire - just watch!"

With an inch of solid ice on the ground here, I don't know why I'm even speaking to you. Tacos, orange juice - it's pissin' me off At least you found the place where they keep the lost ponchos . . .

I added Scud's throttle cable experience to the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist; not that the tank actually has to be off to do it. While thinking over all the incidents of Ridus Interuptus I have experienced over the years with my V11 and others, it occurred to that everyone should work through that maintenance checklist, especially before a big ride. It addresses most of the issues that could strand your V11.

Gotta love it when it's easy! Still take a good look at those flat metal contacts in the housing. As they flatten out and loose good contact, the intermittent connection from the vibration will fry the bulbs. Really common fail point on the V11.

I'll give you a hint:

The tail light is a separate circuit, separate filament in the 1157 bulb. Make sure the bulb is good. It's also common in the factory tail lamp that the contacts get flattened out. Pushing rather hard in on the bulb may light it. If so, remove it and reshape the contacts. Inspect the solder contacts on the bulb itself to be sure they are both prominent enough to make good contact. Finally, the tail light, instrument illumination, tag light and "city light" are all on a common circuit that bypasses all relays and runs through Fuse 6. Since your tag light is burning, I would suspect the contacts or bulb in the tail lamp itself. (You can look in the bottom of the headlamp to be sure the low-watt city lamp is burning).

Sheesh! You had me up late looking for my "emergency blanket" and made me realize how many things I move from the Jeep to the panniers for a long ride (like my first aid kit). A small can of CRC Electronics Cleaner is brilliant for cleaning contacts, loosening stuck stuff, and cleaning up those pesky oil leaks that Guzzi riders seem so compelled to point out.

I've been surprised at the use of spray-on rubberized "Plasti-dip" for leading edge trim in cars. With careful prep and multiple light applications, it appears to hold up surprisingly well. I've not seen this on forks (or, say, the alternator cover), and it would be a little fiddly to mask everything off for good coverage, but if you don't like it, it just peels off.

I just keep rubbing on it like an old lamp hoping one day a genie will emerge to offer me The Three Great Tuning Secrets of All V11! (BTW: original valve cover and sump gaskets!) I love Kostarika's dance analogy! The key to the factory lift is to be certain the nuts are fully seated and everything is perfectly level before hoisting. On level ground I would do this from the left side, pushing the stand's handle backward. On the lift it works better from the right. The Sport Chock that captures the front wheel makes this much more steady!

I thought we might consider carrying on in this thread with posts of what to do on the road in the event of Ridus Interuptus. More for reference than story-telling, although the mix often makes for the best of winter reading! It's Scud's thread, so it's your call, buddy: carry on with Road Repairs, or start a new thread?

Factory stand, combined with the Baxter Trailers Sport Chock, using a polyethylene cutting board to roll over the diamond plate of the Harbor Freight motorcycle lift (gives 35mm/ 1 3/8" under the rear tire by using the 4x4 block as shown): Factory "spindle" pictured above, ostensibly designed to prop the sump. With both wheels off, the whole affair rolls easily dropping the front onto the forks. Don't ask me how I know this.

Rosso Mandello forks are black and identical, no?

Show off!

Charge a battery, drink a stout, play music . . . but don't end up like Buzz:

I've heard of Umbrella Girls, but Drop Light Girls? Well done, man!

There was a thread detailing the dimensions and construction - DIY frame stand!